Logix block supplier Ships 8" half block Corners?
Last Post 22 May 2009 06:59 AM by OnTheLevel. 7 Replies.
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OnTheLevelUser is Offline
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16 May 2009 07:10 AM
The delivery came for the block the other day, after a long battle with the new swimming pool excavation.  The water table is so high here, that I had to infuse 14 yards of compacted stone to overcome the goo called undisturbed soil. The footer is in and the water is now manageable. SO, just when I was hoping to turn the corner and get back on track, the supplier ships SOME 8 inch corners instead of the 16 inch standard. I was assured that EVERYTHING works the same.  Have I been sold a bill of 'goods' or will these half blocks blow out on the day we pour?   Living in the wilderness has it's advantages, but this is one of the drawbacks. I miss our lumber yards back in the civilized world.

Anyone with LOGIX block experience ?

We got the first two courses in, 1/4 inch out of square and a 1/16 out of level.  Now I need to use the half blocks.


Nervously apprehensive,

OTL
wesUser is Offline
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16 May 2009 07:23 AM
OTL,
The 8" corners will build just as strong as the full height blocks. I have had no problems with either the half or full corners blowing out. If you have a problem are for blowouts, it will most likely be at the area where the blocks are hand cut to make up the proper wall length.
Your 1/4" out of square, depending on the overalll size of the project, is not the best, but acceptable. Stack the blocks to the full height and then check the level. If necessary you can snap level lines and cut the tops of the blocks.
Wes Shelby<br>Design Systems Group<br>Murray KY<br>[email protected]
OnTheLevelUser is Offline
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16 May 2009 07:57 AM
I'll argue with the 1/4 inch this morning, I was so surprised that the overall dimensions were 1/2 inch wider/larger than intended. That's with every joint on the first course zip tied together and using the optimum size for Logix block. I have been re reading the manual and watching the video; there was a blurb about using adhesive with height adjuster blocks??? I assume that 8 inch half blocks are consider adjusters? Good suggestion for the height adjustment; I'll try beating the squareness into it, I never had this trouble with helping the kids with their Lego projects. : )
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16 May 2009 08:34 AM

I used to try and adjust the dims for optimize wall lengths. After a few projects, I realized that it's a waste of time. (depending on the length of the wall.). I have a nudura form in front of me that is supposed to be 8', but is about 3/8" short. In a long wall that will add up. I just finished a logix job, and all the dims were for optimized lengths, but we ended up shifting things by 1/4 to 1/2" anyway. I have seen the same with other blocks as well. I just build to plan and sometimes things work out, and others will involve a bit more cutting, but in any case the plan dims should be easily achieved.  

PS,.....There may be some who think I am bashing logix or nudura. I am not!!
They are both great products!

Bunt

Bunt
TLC-ICFUser is Offline
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16 May 2009 10:22 PM
1/4 and 1/8 you are in great shape. Two 1/2 corners will stack just as well as reg corners, have at it.
SoCalScottUser is Offline
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17 May 2009 02:32 AM
1/4" out of square and 1/16" out of level. what are the overall dimensions of the project? sounds like you need to make a cut somewhere and scab it up to get it square.

4" are adjusters, 8" are considered half height and have an internal web which do not require foam.

Each form is 1/2" over or the over all dimension of the wall is 1/2" over?

these aren't legos, they are concrete forms. while they are easier to use than other forms they are not 100% precise due to the manufacturing process (EPS). think about it like this... if each form is 1/32" too long it takes 4 forms to get 1/8" off or 8 forms to get 1/2" off in overall length, so when the forms are called 48" long, you still have to lay them out and measure the wall and make cuts where necessary. This is true of all EPS forms.
OnTheLevelUser is Offline
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17 May 2009 08:21 AM
Well, got things sorted out, the addition of the form lock helped things out well enough. Ttrimmed so lengths are now spot on, and the squareness is so close I am now more worried about the goofy winds we get here damaging the gains we have just made. The original issue is now of concern: Half blocks have a web for slotting in the rebar that doesn't line up with the standard block's web. When I do the full course of Half blocks this won't be an issue. However, when I have to substitute the half block corners now in the next standard row, the rebar won't be supported thru the corners. I assume at this point, I will need to suspend the rebar from the web of the next layer to reduce the stress from the pour, as it passes the bar. I will also extend the bar more than the spec'ed 20 inch overlap to help cantilever the load until the concrete is finished being poured. Hope I am on the right track. Any last thoughts?

OnTheLevelUser is Offline
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22 May 2009 06:59 AM
Well, I have a more informed opinion now that the pour is finished. The check list given by Logix in the Field manual, really helped to put my mind at ease as we were about to pour. At a 7 slump with 4000 psi mix, it was still troublesome getting the mix in the first lift, more troublesome was the use of a concrete vibrator in the six inch block.

The only two issues that relate to the use of the Logix blocks, only were a reflection on the local supplier and not Logix. The 8 inch half blocks, ones that were substituted and a course of them, along with any standard blocks that were improperly handled, all had some problems. What I would call shipping damage, compression and scuffed edges, chips and cracks led to poor performance. The blocks wouldn't seat properly, the vertical seams had to be glued due to large than acceptable gaps. They did ooze or leak fluid after the pour. The delivery guy, wanted to shimmy the shipped units as opposed to using 2 X 4's to move them. It was obvious why I had problems. The other real issue was the absolute reluctance of the supplier to help me get the taper top blocks. Finally patched thru to someone in the home office, who insisted that NO ONE had ever ordered these, they didn't understand why I wouldn't just modify the standard blocks. When I explained that the Code Enforcement officer, is very cooperative as long as you are following mfrs specs, I was told that the field rep for Logix had recommended the alteration of the standard block. I ran it by the CE Officer, who then approved it. It was labor intensive and a waste of time IMO. I would insist on ordering the TT blocks as spec'd in the manual next time.

Next up is the waterproofing and back fill...


OTL
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