I'm starting a 60x36 two story colonial with two 16x14 wings this month. Local BI will not allow foam contact with soil. Building will be brick. The lot slopes approx. two and half feet left to right (west to east). Just wanted some other opinions on the best way to pour this footing.
  1. Standard footer with short stem wall then ICF.
  2. CMU then icf--BI will pass this but I don't like it
  3. ICF to footer and then remove foam
I'm being required to have a 6 inch strip of exposed concrete for an inspection strip due to HIGH incidence of termites.  I've never had this brought up in fourteen years, but Ive never built in this area before either. Your verdicts please.

Did he give you any reasons for not having EPS underground. Did he have a code book to back him up? This is the very first I have ever heard no foam in contact with soil.

I had to replace all of the gravel in a sidewalk one time because I was told by the inspector that I had to have a certain type of gravel under the sidewalk. I later found out from the other inspector who came to do the second inspection that the gravel choice was a preference. Since then, I have asked for a specific code when the inspector said something wouldn't pass. I have found out quite a few times that some inspectors just like to throw their weight around.

If the EPS is covered by waterproofing can it be below grade? It would not be in contact with soil.

I would challenge the BM...I mean BI.

I spoke with the department head and this is a local code (central SC). I will agree that there are a lot of termites in the area and after talking with three separate exterminating companies, none would warranty their work without an inspection strip. I could set the ICF's below grade and bring it up to a tie beam and then continue with ICF, but that seems a little extreme. Basically, the BI and the exterminators (and the homeowner) want to visually see concrete. The plans show three feet to the bottom of the first floor joists on a crawlspace foundation.

Your tie beam may be very similar but have you considered incorporating a brickledge about 2 inches above the grade and then stuccoing or parging the ICF below.  The brickledge would have to be formed without the foam so that the termites would have to build tunnels around the brickledge to travel around it to get back into the foam.  I think this system would be equivalent to an inspection strip.  With shrubs and/or mulch around the home the 2" strip below the brick should not be noticeable.  For this system to work be sure that the brick ledge is high enough that the backfill can be sloped up to the house so the water will drain away.

And besides all of this, regular brick mortar should not be used below ground.