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pcoughlin
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Posts:115
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| 08/26/2009 11:24 PM |
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wow...
This is exactly why you must vibrate your walls. Sorry your job didn't turn out as good as it could of. - Peter Jr. |
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contractorpete@gmail.com
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eric monkman
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Posts:206
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| 08/27/2009 8:32 AM |
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ICF Contractor, your response is very well thought out and well written. I agree with everything you say :-)
Too bad the industry has been "dumbed down" .
Astro...it seems as though your Engineer is not giving any structural value to what has been cast.
IMHO the lintels could be tested for deflection and/or failure by loading/overloading them with known weights.
The Brickledge could have a large angle iron placed directly on top and thru bolted to the wall.
The missed elevation brickledge would be more difficult, for sure.
Waterproofing to me is the "biggie" here.
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eric monkman
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Posts:206
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| 08/27/2009 8:34 AM |
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Posted By eric monkman on 08/27/2009 8:32 AM
ICF Contractor, your response is very well thought out and well written. I agree with everything you say :-)
Too bad the industry has been "dumbed down" .
Astro...it seems as though your Engineer is not giving any structural value to what has been cast.
IMHO the lintels could be tested for deflection and/or failure by loading/overloading them with known weights.
The Brickledge could have a large angle iron placed directly on top and thru bolted to the wall.
The missed elevation brickledge would be more difficult, for sure.
To me ,waterproofing is the "biggie" here.
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icfcontractor
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Posts:277
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| 08/28/2009 4:33 PM |
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Astro,
A few things come to mind. First off I dislike the brick ledger detail. It is too far out from the building and as Eric was refering how are you going to waterproof that old brick ledge. I would do as suggested and cut the old brick ledge off flush to the exterior foam, waterproof it and then attach a steel ledger similar as shown only closer to the building.
The other detail is a little confusing without the plans. It looks like you are trying to carry a beam on the lintel??? If so why remove the concrete???
ICF Contractor |
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astro
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Posts:16
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| 08/29/2009 1:58 PM |
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| why would it have to be water proofed? its above grade.. or should i be covering it with blueskin or tar paper like a house wrap? |
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Baldwin2012
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Posts:47
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| 08/31/2009 12:58 PM |
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Just go with FERO...
Problem Solved - its so simple to use...
You can postbolt the brackets, it gives you an airspace, you can insulate the brackets with sprayfoam and they are rated and engineered.
forget this Tapered Block stuff... 
Its too hard and too complex and too much of a thermal beak... no i dont work/sell fero
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markross
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Veteran Member
Posts:1070
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| 08/31/2009 5:40 PM |
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Posted By astro on 08/11/2009 10:22 PM Hi, Here are some pics of a basement that might be coming down. problems: windows at wrong height windows 10" to low as per plan windows bowed in 3/4" in middle of windows beam pocket over window with only 2" of lintel basement brick ledge improper and does not meet corners basement brick ledge only half full with concrete rest faked with mortar basement brick ledge at wrong height for 26'feet of north wall for dropped theater room beam pockets have no lateral barring besides foam in 2 areas top brick ledge of house at wrong height should be 2 courses lower concrete consolidation problems and "honey combing" mud sills grouted on with no steel shims and weak mortar water proofing installed at wrong height, fastened improperly 3" out of square at worst corner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/supernintendo/sets/72157622016061314/if anyone else has any input or notices anything more please reply!
Mark Ross
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Mark Ross
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Light_Green
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Posts:4
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| 09/08/2009 10:32 PM |
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This is why I DIY.
I am an owner builder. I will be building in a remote part of the Colorado Mountains. This is a prime example of why I insist on doing things myself. Don’t get me wrong I know there are good contractors and subs out there I can’t afford to pay for them to travel to this remote location. I have had to repair so many professional contractor and sub foul ups that it is hard to believe that any of them are still in business.
My 11 year old US Home Prime examples:
Garage roof leaks at every exterior - inside corner (Stupid Architectural detail): US home fix, gobs of silicone on every lap siding and corner board connection. My solution remove all siding on one side of inside corner board, remove corner board. Seal corners of flashing with counter flashing and Butyl Flashing Tape. No more leaks.
Brick on ½ brick exterior wall has negative slope: Replace flashing with longer horizontal lip, tearing out and replacing brick to expensive.
Siding and trim “wish nailed”: Find studs and nail siding and trim into studs.
Soffit nailed to thin air: remove soffit install nailing blocks re-install soffit.
Corner bead not nailed, rather adhered with drywall mud no tape: Nail corner bead remove loose cured drywall mud, patch and re-texture.
Flatwork poured on bare previously disturbed ground: An expensive project for later. I poured a new 16’ sidewalk 10 years ago that hasn’t budged or cracked.
The list goes on and on. RANT OVER:
I plan to use ICF's for the portion of my basement that will be underground. I will stick frame the walls and spray insulate the walkout portion of the basement,
In previous post all I see is hire a contractor to do the ICF. Lets face it ICF’s are giant Lego blocks re-enforced with re-bar, externally temporarily braced and poured so that voids are eliminated. (Attention to detail). I plan to hire a good concrete guy to do all my pours. I will set the ICF forms myself taking the time necessary to get it right i.e. square, plumb and properly re-enforced. When I get it done I will bring in my concrete guy.
Now for my question? Please list Pros and Cons of the top 3 ICF products. Is it really cheaper than traditional poured walls with rigid exterior insulation? |
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Green is good, if it saves Green Backs. Re-use as much as possible. waste not want not.
2 people living in a 6,000 SQ FT Green built house with an 8k fridge is NOT GREEN!
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing it right. |
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jonr
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Posts:335
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| 09/09/2009 7:32 AM |
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Apparently some builders build to a "got it past the inspector" standard. Is there a set of standards/good practices that one could refer to in a contract - ie, my house will be built to xxx level of quality (where xxx is better than the minimums)?
Still leaves detection and enforcement as issues, but can't work on those if there is no contract/specification to hold them to.
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MDiver
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Posts:43
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| 09/09/2009 6:57 PM |
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| Wow, I feel for you. I hope you haven't paid anyone. If this was one my houses (or worse yet, one of my clients) I would start over, and launch a lawsuit. Who is acting as general contractor?
I have attached a picture that I would substitute for your engineers drawings...
Again, I truly wish you the best of luck with this headache. |
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Light_Green
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Posts:4
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| 09/18/2009 9:20 AM |
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Perhaps I should clarify.
The poor quality that I described is on my existing beige box home built in 1998. I am in the planning stages for my new home. I was just trying to explain why I DIY.
I am building energy efficient call it green if you like, but I prefer to call it a warm and toasty 2,160 sq foot log home set on an ICF walkout basement foundation. I am doing my own lot clearing and excavation. I will have my footing done by a professional. I will install the ICF's myself with the help of the ICF representative (who once was an ICF installer) to get me started. I will build up the ICF walls with door bucks and a garage door opening that will not have concrete above it. My garage door will be 9' wide and have a header supported by the ICF foundation. After I erect the ICF "shell" and re-enforce with rented bracing my rep will inspect my work and bracing prior to my pour. I will hire an experienced professional concrete guy “err person” to pour the walls.
In the spring I will frame and deck my 1st floor, then backfill the ICF walls (2 sides). My engineered pre-cut log home kit arrives in late spring and I will build up from there.
Home details:
A simple 24 X 32 foot print no fancy doggy dormers, just 2 shed dormers, standing seam, metal roof. 3 Bed Rooms, 3 Baths. No high end designer trendy stuff just ICF concrete, logs, engineered lumber, tongue and groove pine interior walls. Mechanicals will include on demand hot water and radiant in floor heating. Air conditioning will be in the form of a wrap around screen porch with lots of doors and windows that will provide flow through ventilation. Did I mention that the mean temperature where I’m building is 40 - 45 F. with a record high of 90 and a record low of -27.
You can check out my website if you would like. My lot has the "Coors pure rocky mountain stream" running trough it.
http://www.3070-ict-in-circuit-consulting-training.com/themountainproperty
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Green is good, if it saves Green Backs. Re-use as much as possible. waste not want not.
2 people living in a 6,000 SQ FT Green built house with an 8k fridge is NOT GREEN!
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing it right. |
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MDiver
Registered Users
New Member
Posts:43
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| 09/18/2009 10:00 AM |
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Posted By Light_Green on 09/18/2009 9:20 AM Perhaps I should clarify.
In the spring I will frame and deck my 1st floor, then backfill the ICF walls (2 sides).
[/quote]
Are you planning on pouring the foundation this year yet? How cold does it get over the winter? Freezing? |
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Hoowood
Registered Users
New Member
Posts:81
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| 09/21/2009 2:30 AM |
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Posted By astro on 08/11/2009 10:22 PM Hi, Here are some pics of a basement that might be coming down. problems: windows at wrong height windows 10" to low as per plan windows bowed in 3/4" in middle of windows beam pocket over window with only 2" of lintel basement brick ledge improper and does not meet corners basement brick ledge only half full with concrete rest faked with mortar basement brick ledge at wrong height for 26'feet of north wall for dropped theater room beam pockets have no lateral barring besides foam in 2 areas top brick ledge of house at wrong height should be 2 courses lower concrete consolidation problems and "honey combing" mud sills grouted on with no steel shims and weak mortar water proofing installed at wrong height, fastened improperly 3" out of square at worst corner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/supernintendo/sets/72157622016061314/if anyone else has any input or notices anything more please reply!
This is really one of the bad starts that I have seen. And it is not okay from others to say DIY is the wrong way to build a home. www.das-passivhaus.de shows that everybody can build himselve. It´s a matter of which Information´s the ownerbuilder gets. We consult the owners in a way that he feels never being alone. In this case here it is a matter of totally wrong concrete. This concrete is not good enough to make a pavement. skype me if needed:rolftruhoel |
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