Garybk
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| 09/20/2006 1:39 PM |
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Time now to side my SIP house. 7/16 OSB exterior. Can I use Hardie Board sising on the house? If so how should I attach it? I imagine I would need screws instead of nails as I have no studs to attach to. I will be doing the install myself.
TIA,
Gary
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Parkfan
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| 09/20/2006 2:42 PM |
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It seems as though a fiber-cement type siding on SIPS would be the best of both worlds if it can be secured in a manner that holds tight for the long term. I hope the SIPS experts can check-in with any pros and cons to installation and how well it holds in OSB. Sorry, I can only second your question and not provide any good advice.
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ICF972
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| 09/20/2006 3:53 PM |
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We've recently installed James Hardie Board on our 7/16 OSB SIPS home and it looks fantastic! We used 2 1/2" galvanized nails, via a Paslode Nail Gun (battery & gas pwr'd), and utilized the blind nail technique with a 7" reveal. You could use a traditional nailer but the hose is a potential trip hazard, IMHO. At any rate, that's my 2 cents worth.
vr,
Chris |
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absorka
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| 09/20/2006 4:51 PM |
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Although we are not using Hardi, here is what we were going to use and may use on cedar we are installing, see link attached.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?sid=595
Steve
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sipbuilders
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Posts:85
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| 09/20/2006 6:26 PM |
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Hello: I have installed the Hardie Plank Siding on 5 projects. We have not had any call backs and everything looks great. I have used ring shank mails, but prefer screws 16" OC, careful to use a coated screw
and make sure that the treads on the screw are in the OSB so that it keeps the siding tight to the wall. We like to order our windows with J channel applied so the the siding ends are covered, and we put a flashing strip at each joint so that rain does not get behind the siding.
I have found other products I like better to trim with, the Hardie trim is hard to work with. We use a vynil product and paint it
Also watch the Hardie Sofit the vent holes are pretty big, we put a screen behind them when we used them last to keep bugs out.
John Gorrell
Edited by - sipbuilders on 09/20/2006 18:31:20 |
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mmacgowa
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| 09/20/2006 6:47 PM |
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I talked to Hardi about this. They do not warranty their product on non studs ie OSB installs. But many people have installed with no issues. The rep at Hardi recommended face nailing and tightening up the nailing pattern. Thus I would not blind nail. The posts above are correct and your product will look great because your walls are no doubt straighter then stick construction but the test is when a big wind hits. When the wind blows up your skirt so to speak is when you need to be concerned. And perhaps you are good to 50 mph but what about a freezing rain at 55 mph?? With that said, my siding is blind nailed, but if I have to fix it I won't have to do it in the ice and snow :)
MM Consulting
EZ Build Systems
549 E. James St.
Littleton, CO 80126
homes@ezbuildus.com
www.EZBuildUS.com
phone 303.818.6245
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wes
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Posts:627
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| 09/20/2006 7:44 PM |
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I would recommend that over the SIPS and tyvek, add 1x lathe 16" oc to attach your siding. The lathe can be screwed to the OSB on the SIPS and then use whatever fastners are recommended by your siding mfr to attach the siding. This also provides a windscreen drainage plane behind the siding.
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Wes Shelby
Design Systems Group
Murray KY
wandr@ainweb.net |
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Garybk
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| 09/20/2006 9:10 PM |
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I like those screws, but how do you countersink the heads?
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Scott101
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| 09/20/2006 9:46 PM |
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My two cents on the subject. I like Hardi-plank. I am not a professional builder, but I have installed Hardi-plank on three homes (no SIP’s though). I usually face nail with #8 HDG spiral shank siding nails (yes hand nail) and caulk the heads. The heads are only about 1/8” in diameter and set well. The results leave an almost invisible face nail. For the hidden nails on the top of the plank, I use a standard 1 ¾” HDG roof nails. I usually apply the planks directly to the sheathing with 15# felt barrier between the two. This way the Hardi-plank has a firm backing. Oldest project is about 6 years old with no problems. I also caulk the underside of the lap with a good grade of caulk to stop the pesky ants and wind driven rain from working up the lap.
I have opted not to use Hardi-plank on the SIP house I am planning only because I don’t like to paint. I am going with either stone or brick.
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sipbuilders
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| 09/21/2006 2:36 PM |
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Scott101:
Hardie Plank comes painted if you want it that way
John Gorrell |
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ICF972
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| 09/21/2006 3:48 PM |
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You may also look at using galv. coil roofing nails. It will give alot of holding power using broad head nails. The blind nailing will be fine on a 7" exposure but no more than 16" oc pattern. Can't speak to warranty. Screws are always the ultimate.
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gradzat
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| 09/22/2006 10:11 AM |
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The recommended fastening system would be with an 8d ring shank nail - preferred type of nail would be stainless steel. The nailing schedule is located on the Hardi-panel installation flyer. We have not done installation in some time so check the nailing 'pattern' - we think its 8" or 12" on center but verify.
Hope this helps.
Shell Building Systems
http://www.shellbuildingsystems.com |
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ICF972
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| 09/23/2006 12:23 PM |
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| In order to be covered by their warranty, Hardi-Board lap siding must be face nailed/screwed. Certainteed makes a fiber cement lap siding that can be blind nailed/screwed. I don't have the info in front of me but you can call Certainteed and get the fastener schedule. |
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ICF972
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| 10/04/2006 10:08 PM |
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| I'd like to hear from someone who has actual experience with this- I too am planning to install fiber cement lap siding on a SIPS house. From what I've researched, Hardi recommends face nailing- which would be a pain and ugly to boot. Certainteed has a technical bulletin on SIPS that allows blind nailing without voiding the warranty. Neither requires screws, but I know that some people prefer them anyway- http://www.certainteed.com/NR/rdonlyres/2D633B41-0075-4DD4-B056-4A1F189278B9/0/1070.pdf |
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miked56
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| 10/08/2006 8:14 PM |
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We've used Hardie on 2 different SIP houses. The first was a steel and eps structure where we had to use screws. We followed the installation instructions as printed on the Hardie wrapping and on their web site. We used blind screwing where ever possible.
*** you do not counter sink either screws or the nail heads!!! ***
Instead you just slightly dimple the surface. Please read the insulation instructions on the Hardie site
[url]http://www.Hardie.com/homeowner/installation/hardiplank_installation.php[/url]
The second house was a standard OSB-EPS-OSB SIP house. We used nailing but tightened the pattern. Make sure to adjust the depth of the nail gun so the head just dimples the surface. I think ring shank nails would hold best but time will tell.
With putty and paint they look like any other Hardie installation in the area applied over traditionally stick framed houses.
The hardie site states
"If only nailed to sheathing, plank can be a maximum 9-1/4" wide and must be face nailed at 12" o.c. with 0.091" shank x 0.221 HD x 1.5" long corrosion resistant nails"
and
"Pneumatic fastening is highly recommended. Set air pressure so that the fastener is driven snug with the surface of the siding. A flush mount attachment on the pneumatic tool is recommended."
Hope this helps
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TIA -- Mike |
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Garybk
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| 10/11/2006 9:31 PM |
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So you had to face nail. What method did you use to hide those heads? Thanks for your input!
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ICF972
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| 10/15/2006 12:21 AM |
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We just finished siding our SIP home with HardiPlank 8 1/4 lap siding. We used McFeeley's stainless steel siding screw every 12 inches. The screws seemed to work fine. You don't have to pre-drill with this screw. It has a cutting edge on the tip and bores its own hole. The screws seem to have alot of holding power.
Jordan
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miked56
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| 10/17/2006 10:13 AM |
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Garybk
We used putty and paint. You can see the nail heads if you look closely but it looks the same as the trim boards on the corners, around the windows, etc. It will never look like vinyl. Then again thank goodness not.
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TIA -- Mike |
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