Help with new SIP roof.
Last Post 03 Nov 2007 08:04 PM by k_radanovich. 6 Replies.
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ObsidianAngelUser is Offline
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16 Oct 2007 08:16 PM
Good Evening,
I am building a log home in NW Indiana. We have gone with SIPs for the roof. The SIPS have arrived on-site and we have prepped them for a 10 day wait on the ground before we can begin installation. First major question is what would you recommend to be installed under the roofing material. We are planning on metal roofing. I had one roofer suggest I&W shielding the entire roof. As we are taking bids for the roofing to determine the cost of having someone to blame vs time and pain, I will need advice. I was very into this idea, but I am prone to overkill in all aspects of my life. I have been reading that there may be call for concern with condensation build up when using 100% I&W Shield. Looking to do this right as it is our new home. Advice is needed!! Should have done more reasearch do make this less painful. Wet OSB scares me. Thanks in advance. Roof is a 9/12 pitch.
PanelCraftersUser is Offline
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16 Oct 2007 09:07 PM
Posted By ObsidianAngel on 10/16/2007 8:16 PM
We are planning on metal roofing. I had one roofer suggest I&W shielding the entire roof. As we are taking bids for the roofing to determine the cost of having someone to blame vs time and pain, I will need advice. I was very into this idea, but I am prone to overkill in all aspects of my life. I have been reading that there may be call for concern with condensation build up when using 100% I&W Shield.

I have seen more than 1 SIP manufacturer recommend against sealing the entire roof surface. I would go with 30# felt.
....jc<br>If you're not building with OSB SIPS(or ICF's), why are you building?
tmsuUser is Offline
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17 Oct 2007 05:27 AM
Posted By ObsidianAngel on 10/16/2007 8:16 PM
Good Evening,
I am building a log home in NW Indiana. We have gone with SIPs for the roof. The SIPS have arrived on-site and we have prepped them for a 10 day wait on the ground before we can begin installation. First major question is what would you recommend to be installed under the roofing material. We are planning on metal roofing. I had one roofer suggest I&W shielding the entire roof. As we are taking bids for the roofing to determine the cost of having someone to blame vs time and pain, I will need advice. I was very into this idea, but I am prone to overkill in all aspects of my life. I have been reading that there may be call for concern with condensation build up when using 100% I&W Shield. Looking to do this right as it is our new home. Advice is needed!! Should have done more reasearch do make this less painful. Wet OSB scares me. Thanks in advance. Roof is a 9/12 pitch.

I'm no expert but I used the 30# felt with the exception of the code calling for 2' of I&W shield over the eaves.  I too put on a metal roof and live in SW Michigan.
olpjebUser is Offline
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17 Oct 2007 08:34 PM
I am building a timber frame enclosed with urethane SIPS. There is no attic in the house (all vaulted). I had T&G installed on top of the frame, and then the contractor covered the T&G with one layer of felt for a temporary weather resistant barrier. We placed the SIP panels (OSB on both sides) onto the felt. This actually helped the installer because it was much easier to maneuver on the roof. The roof is then receiving an entire layer of Ice and Water Shield followed by a 40 yr Elk composition roof. Elk guarantees their roofing system over a warm roof.

eastsoundUser is Offline
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20 Oct 2007 02:02 AM
I also have a timber frame house (frame raised in late June/early July) with T&G on the roof.  My panel manufacturer defaulted on the SIP contract, so I added a synthetic underlayment on top of the T&G to get some protection from the weather (now getting pretty wet in the Northwest).  As soon as I get a new SIP manufacturer to build and ship, the structure will be enclosed with PU SIPs, which will receive another synthetic underlayment on the roof panels before we install a metal roof.

I used synthetic material because it is very tear-resistent and rated for at least 6 months exposure without deterioration and because this type has very low vapor permeability (good for sealing the underside of the roof SIPs from interior humidity).  Since it was not significantly more than roofing felt, I will do the same on top of the roof SIPs, EXCEPT I will use another type that has good vapor permeability that will let the OSB dry out in the event the exterior skin gets wet.  Not sure if I will use roofing felt or the same vapor permeable material on the walls as a drainage plane.  I do plan on installing sleepers and installing the cedar siding to the sleepers, creating an airspace between the siding and the drainage plane/OSB.  Any advice?

By the way, lots of photos of this project are available at www.project955.com.  I'm not selling anything, just documenting the project for publication at a later date.

eastsound
olpjebUser is Offline
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20 Oct 2007 08:55 AM
Eastsound -

I'm on your mailing list for the project update.  Beautiful home and spectacular timber frame!  I'd like to know who your SIP manufacturer was (but not publically in this forum), and I would be happy to share my experience with the SIP process.  I also used PU sips.


k_radanovichUser is Offline
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03 Nov 2007 08:04 PM
I am curious also of the manufacturer. I am a distributor for R-Control. Part of the warranty includes installing a heat exchanger in the HVAC system to compensate for the tight envelope and the danger of moisture building up on the interior. This may be the solution to the question of weather or not to use felt or a nonbreathable membrane...
Kevin
greenwall.us
President/CEO<br>Green Walls-US, INc.<br>SIPs, ICF's & Antique Timber Frame
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