Help...Need advice. Anyone used Cedar Breather between a SIPS wall and cement board siding....instead of felt?

Thanks.

Why? As long as you keep water from the OSB skins, you will be set. Never the less, you will need a drainage plane against the OSB, and I'm not sure that a 'Cedar Breather' is it.

We used Tyvek wrap under our Hardiboard siding. It went up very quickly with just two people BTW. I would staple the leading edge and my spouse, using an extendable painter's pole, would simply unroll the Tyvek. Another nice feature of the Tyvek was the Tyvek tape for the seams. To be sure, it cost more than the roofing felt but it will last longer and ensure a tight building envelope...which equates to heating and cooling savings in the long run IMHO. Good luck in your build!

C.G.

I disagree with just about all of your points. Sorry. And, if you are expecting a drainage plane to insure a 'tight' building, you've(not personally) got other problems to begin with.

J.C.,

OK. You disagree with my points. Why? Is Tyvek an inferior product in comparision to roofing felt in your opinion? If utilizing Tyvek as a drainage plan is a problem, then what is the solution in your opinion? IMHO, the intent of this forum is to share ideas, issues and present options as solutions. Nothing personal J.C but share your knowledge in detail.

Bobke, Sorry for the drama.

I guess it's because the structure should be sealed prior to reaching the rain shield(Felt or Tyvek). SIPS, ICF's and spray foam all do this quite well.

No, it isn't. I just wouldn't depend on Tyvek or Felt to seal the structure. 1" of rigid insulation(taped & sealed) makes a good air barrier and drainage plane for stick framed structures. For especially wet & windy areas, Tyvek or Felt can be added(but their purpose is strictly as a rain shield). SIPS, ICF's and spray foam shouldn't need any additional air sealing.

Okay, let me try to ask another way. Water will ultimatley find it's way behind the siding, and needs a way out, right? I believe that is the purpose of Cedar Breather.

But is that enough? Don't I also need to keep moisture off the OSB skins of the SIPS to protect them from damage over time?

Thanks.

Not enough

Bobke,

After speaking with my better half, she reminded me that the Hardiboard warranty would've been null and void if we had NOT used Tyvek house wrap as a drainage plane. Not saying it's the only answer to your question but I trust the makers of Hardiboard to know how to avoid water damage issues, e.g. mold and rot. At any rate, that's my two cents worth and that's all I have to say about that.

Respectfully,

C.G.

Absolutely! That is one of the reasons for using Felt Paper/Tyvek/Foam Board or any other drainage plane type product. If you want to use a 'Cedar Breather' on top of that, go for it!

Hardiboard Installation Statement:

Neither the Warranty itself or the Installation Instructions specify that the 'water resistive barrier' must be Tyvek.

Chris,

The Hardiboard probably requires Tyvek because of it's alkalinity. The same reason that you need galvanized fasteners. The Tyvek would isolate the OSB from the potentially damaging effects of the cement board. But, I am just guessing about that.

Dick Mills

Dick;

I don't think tyvek is needed for the alkalinity, hardi-backer gets attached directly to plywood or OSB sub-flooring without separation.

Bob,

A final thought. I will be using HardiPlank siding on my next(and hopefully last) home. Cementitious, low maintenance, fireproof and a 50 year warranty. I don't think that you can beat it!

JC,

In my part of the country, by the time the Hardie Plank is installed, caulked, and painted, it cost almost as much as brick. Of course we have brick factories nearby.

And inexpensive masons? Wow! In Colorado, it seems that everything is at a premium.

I made the mistake of using cedar on my current house. Never again! Between the UV and a semi-arid climate, natural wood products seem to age faster than I do!

FWIW you might check out the CertainTeed cement board. Very similar to Hardie but they claim to be greener. I was quoted $5.29 for a primed 12 footer and $6.59 for painted 12 foot piece. Where I live clear cedar clapboards are around $14.50 per 12 footer.

LINK

felt has been proven as a drain plane, is less expensive then Tyvek and lasts longer. Perhaps you are thinking you need more space for your drain plane and get thickness from the cedar, but it isn't necessary. The cedar will just add cost and a step.

I disagree that felt will last longer than Tyvek, anyone ever involved with renovations can tell you that felt degrades over the years, tears easily and basically starts to fall apart(especially when it is in constant contact with moisture) . Since tyvek is synthetic, I believe that it would take much longer to degrade