shwebs
Registered Users
Posts:2
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| 01/20/2008 5:20 PM |
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I'm new to this site and am interested in building a steel SIPs house in SE North Caroina. The house will be on a raised slab, around 4000 sq. ft. and one story. So, my question is if we use a heat pump (just about all that used here in SE NC) where do you put the duct work when there is a raised slab and a SIPS roof? We could use tradition trusses, but isn't that kind of like a cooler full of ice without a lid in the sun? Is there a better way than a heat pump? Remember that it is very warm and humid here most of the year, with a few cold days and nights a year. I've read the forums here and info. on the SIPS sights and can't really find a good answer, but maybe I've missed it. I don't really want to look at the duct work.
Also, are there any steel SIPS builders in SE NC? Opinions on best ones appreciate too. We are still in planning, researching phase.
I greatly appreciate the help. Thanks! |
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PanelCrafters
Registered Users
Posts:1292
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| 01/20/2008 5:54 PM |
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Posted By shwebs on 01/20/2008 5:20 PM
I'm new to this site and am interested in building a steel SIPs house in SE North Caroina. The house will be on a raised slab, around 4000 sq. ft. and one story. So, my question is if we use a heat pump (just about all that used here in SE NC) where do you put the duct work when there is a raised slab and a SIPS roof?
Under/in the slab. They can terminate at floor level, or below a future interior wall(an then run up inside the wall when it's built). |
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....jc
If you're not building with OSB SIPS(or ICF's), why are you building? |
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Alton
Registered Users
Posts:286
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| 01/20/2008 6:13 PM |
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SHWEBS,
There is special ductwork and fittings made to go under slabs. The wrong type will not keep the water out of the ducts. To be safe, keep the ductwork above finished ground level. |
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shwebs
Registered Users
Posts:2
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| 01/20/2008 10:44 PM |
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| Alton: Forgive the question, but above ground level where? I definitely do not water in the ducts as I have two boys with severe asthma, which is why I will never build a crawl space in this area again. Mold is a major issue here under homes. Thanks! |
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Alton
Registered Users
Posts:286
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| 01/21/2008 12:39 AM |
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Although you plan to build with a raised slab, just be careful not to bury the ductwork so deep that it is below the finished grade. If you do bury it deep, then be sure that the ductwork is water tight. I have seen plenty of water in ductwork that was below grade and not water tight. Write me if you want to discuss this or any other subject dealing with energy conservation or alternative building technology. The PM service on this forum does not work for me. My e-mail. alton at auburn dot edu Use the correct format for a regular e-mail address. |
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olpjeb
Registered Users
Posts:55
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| 01/21/2008 12:57 PM |
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With Steel SIPs over trusses, would you not just end up with a condtioned attic space? Could you not use this space to run all the duct work?
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cmkavala
Registered Users
Posts:761
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| 01/21/2008 1:37 PM |
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Posted By olpjeb on 01/21/2008 12:57 PM
With Steel SIPs over trusses, would you not just end up with a condtioned attic space? Could you not use this space to run all the duct work?
Yes, it is conditioned space, but What are the trusses for? |
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Chris Kavala
chris@southernsips.com
1-877-321-SIPS |
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Garybk
Registered Users
Posts:24
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| 01/21/2008 6:39 PM |
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| My parents built a house in the 70s with ductwork under the slab in the basement. Water would get into the ducts every spring with the snow runoff. Over about 25 years there was only 2 where they almost completely filled up. About 10 years ago I installed a sump pit in the furnace room 3' lower than the ductwork, (about 4' down) with a 1-1/2" abs pipe running from the low point under the downdraft furnace to the sump pit. Since then they have been completely dry. Don't know if that helps but that is our experience. |
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psmithrt
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Posts:5
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cmkavala
Registered Users
Posts:761
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| 03/06/2008 9:08 AM |
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psmithrt;
I looked at the sanyo 4 zone (13 seer - code minimum) and it would work well for Garybk,
but the original post from shwebs was looking for an alternative for new construction.
This would not work for well for a new home and is priced at the same as an installed ducted 13 seer heatpump, including bath and kitchen ducts.
It also would only provide 4 zones with insufficient cooling thru out the entire home.
They only work well for spot conditioning.
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Chris Kavala
chris@southernsips.com
1-877-321-SIPS |
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gregj
Registered Users
Posts:153
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| 03/06/2008 6:08 PM |
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Shwebs, I wouldn't put the ductwork under the slab because of the potential for moisture issues and the possible impact on your boys health.
There's no reason an above grade duct work system can't be designed to fit the design of the house and still successfully hide the ductwork within walls, chases and soffits. A little creativity and compromise might be needed. If there is a designer/architect involved then find a good HVAC guy and have them meet to integrate the HVAC design needs with the house plan. |
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psmithrt
Registered Users
Posts:5
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| 03/06/2008 6:54 PM |
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I'm sure it could be done. I did read the entire post. I'm also sure it could be hidden somewhat fashionably also. I still feel it would take up indoor space and overall would be (or as forced air is in general) hard to accomplish a balanced pressure system and next to impossible to zone. unless every room has a supply and return you over door grates or jump ducts between rooms. Don't get me wrong, if done right it would give him the full efficiency benefit he paid for by using sips in the first place. If done wrong, as it so often is, he loses some of the benefits of both the heat pump method and sip method. Yes it can be done, but why?
http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/building_america/pdfs/30506_better_ducts.pdf |
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GeorgiaTom
Registered Users
Posts:122
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| 03/07/2008 7:38 AM |
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Posted By shwebs on 01/20/2008 5:20 PM
I'm new to this site and am interested in building a steel SIPs house in SE North Caroina. The house will be on a raised slab, around 4000 sq. ft. and one story. So, my question is if we use a heat pump (just about all that used here in SE NC) where do you put the duct work when there is a raised slab and a SIPS roof? We could use tradition trusses, but isn't that kind of like a cooler full of ice without a lid in the sun? Is there a better way than a heat pump? Remember that it is very warm and humid here most of the year, with a few cold days and nights a year. I've read the forums here and info. on the SIPS sights and can't really find a good answer, but maybe I've missed it. I don't really want to look at the duct work.
Also, are there any steel SIPS builders in SE NC? Opinions on best ones appreciate too. We are still in planning, researching phase.
I greatly appreciate the help. Thanks!
www.southernsips.com builds anywhere in the SE US
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Alton
Registered Users
Posts:286
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| 03/07/2008 7:56 AM |
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Shwebs,
By using the SIPS for a flat instead of a vaulted ceiling, you can create an attic space for the ductwork. By using SIPS for the walls and flat ceiling, you would have a very well insulated home and a place to hide the ductwork.
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GeorgiaTom
Registered Users
Posts:122
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| 03/07/2008 8:00 AM |
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Shwebs;
you would have a well insulated home, but a inefficient HVAC system by putting duct work in a hot attic |
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Alton
Registered Users
Posts:286
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| 03/07/2008 8:31 AM |
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Shwebs,
I should have also mentioned that later on you can have the bottom of the roof deck sprayed with closed cell polyurethane to seal and insulate the attic space. Sometimes the initial budget is not large enough to do everything at once.
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psmithrt
Registered Users
Posts:5
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cmkavala
Registered Users
Posts:761
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| 03/07/2008 2:08 PM |
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While mini-splits are good for "spot" conditioning , they are no good for whole house use,
I have a Fujitsu mini-split in my own office addition , but would not reccomend that name brand as mine is completely shot after less than 3 years, it has been a constant source of problems and have spent over $1,500. in the last 2 years keep it going
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Chris Kavala
chris@southernsips.com
1-877-321-SIPS |
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John in the OC
Registered Users
Posts:53
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| 03/07/2008 6:49 PM |
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RE:I have a Fujitsu mini-split in my own office addition , but would not reccomend that name brand as mine is completely shot after less than 3 years, it has been a constant source of problems and have spent over $1,500. in the last 2 years keep it going"
What is it with the "F company"..I also have Plasma by FuJIP U , that just cost me $1500 !^#%$#!! Must be their magic number...stay away from them!! |
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CTP
Registered Users
Posts:9
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| 03/12/2008 9:40 PM |
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how about trying a high velocity hvac system integrated into the interior framed walls? with a properly designed sysem you should be able to get the zoning and circulation to make you home comfortable, without the bulk associated with normal duct systems. you will loose alot of efficiency having duct work and or air handlers in an unconditioned attic particularly in your area. also be cautious using steel splined sips (higher cost and significantly more conductive than wood--ORNL and PATH studies) or any splined sip system. having a continuous thermal boundary (urethane) including the corners with sips that interlock (cam locks) is the best system regardless if you are in AK or SE NC. another alternative--I am working with a local buidling scientist (phd arch eng) and her architect husband on the eco-panel house they have designed and they are going with an open hvac system that has a more industrial look in the large open pedestal/cantilever areas (she wants all duct work in conditioned space)---efficient, zoned and balanced.
craig@eco-panels.com |
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