bradesp
Registered Users
Posts:2
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| 03/30/2008 5:18 PM |
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Guys,
I know all the benefits of SIPs, but I'm planning a lake cottage addition that must include the asthetic of a timber frame / post and beam. As many have pointed out on this forum, the use of structural IP's seems like a waste of money for a timber frame, so what's the affordable alternateive?
Can folks point me to a sensible and affordable way to wrap my post and beam addition in a well insulated package that doesn't requrie the full cost of SIP?
I've heard others suggest a panelized, conventionally framed wall that is open to the interior to allow easier electrical / plumbing and then insulate with sprayed PU.
Thoughts / suggestions are welcome!
Thanks!
bradesp
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PanelCrafters
Registered Users
Posts:1323
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| 03/31/2008 7:14 AM |
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Posted By bradesp on 03/30/2008 5:18 PM
Can folks point me to a sensible and affordable way to wrap my post and beam addition in a well insulated package that doesn't requrie the full cost of SIP?
Well, you could always use nailbase(only 1 OSB skin) panels. |
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....jc
If you're not building with OSB SIPS(or ICF's), why are you building? |
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wes
Registered Users
Posts:374
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| 03/31/2008 7:45 AM |
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Bradesp,
Check with General Panel's Johnson City TN plant.
They make nailbase and non-structural skinning panels.
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Wes Shelby
Design Systems Group
Murray KY
wandr@ainweb.net |
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lambabbey
Registered Users
Posts:71
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| 03/31/2008 8:06 AM |
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Here's another source for the nailbase foam panels (with just one side of OSB) that have been suggested. I'll be using them myself to add extra insulation to a roof.
One other thought: the 'absolute cheapest' in the shortrun may very well not be the cheapest in the longrun. Try to keep cost in perspective.
John
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John A Gasbarre
Lamb Abbey Orchards
PO Box 623
Union, ME 04863
E-mail: orchard@lambabbey.com |
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Rosanne Katilius
Registered Users
Posts:7
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| 03/31/2008 10:53 AM |
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| I am not a builder, but have a question for anyone. I realize the timberframe is structural, but how far in between the timbers will allow you to use a non-structural panel? If the home is in an area that gets snow would you not need a structural panel to hold the snow load? |
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PanelCrafters
Registered Users
Posts:1323
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| 03/31/2008 11:12 AM |
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Posted By Rosanne Katilius on 03/31/2008 10:53 AM
I am not a builder, but have a question for anyone. I realize the timberframe is structural, but how far in between the timbers will allow you to use a non-structural panel? If the home is in an area that gets snow would you not need a structural panel to hold the snow load?
If there are any loads involved, you may not be able to use one. However, you can place structural members under a panel to handle the loads. Think thick T&G on the roof, and it's the ceiling on the inside and support for the nailbase panels. |
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....jc
If you're not building with OSB SIPS(or ICF's), why are you building? |
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Rosanne Katilius
Registered Users
Posts:7
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| 03/31/2008 12:36 PM |
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| Thanks JC! I supposed the thick T&G would have to be applied to the panels at the factory instead of in the field so the code enforcer would accept it as being structural??? |
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PanelCrafters
Registered Users
Posts:1323
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| 03/31/2008 1:24 PM |
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Posted By Rosanne Katilius on 03/31/2008 12:36 PM
Thanks JC! I supposed the thick T&G would have to be applied to the panels at the factory instead of in the field so the code enforcer would accept it as being structural???
No! It's applied directly to the frame, and the local inspector certifies it prior to the nailbase being applied. It's the structure not the panel. |
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....jc
If you're not building with OSB SIPS(or ICF's), why are you building? |
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panelwright
Registered Users
Posts:19
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| 03/31/2008 6:27 PM |
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Bradesp,
With a comment like "must include the asthetic of a timber frame / post and beam" I would suggest the following:
Build your addition with SIPs and follow with a TRIMber-frame.
You'll get all the advantages of a SIP structure and save a bundle on the timber frame.
Al
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PremierC
Registered Users
Posts:10
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| 03/31/2008 10:27 PM |
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| I agree with panelwright, build your structure out of sips and do a decorative frame inside. You will save alot of money. |
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bradesp
Registered Users
Posts:2
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| 04/06/2008 2:21 PM |
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I actually think the cost of anything that actually looks like authentic post and beam is not likely to run less money unless I choose to only trim a few rooms.
If others have real experience doing this kind of thing and can point me to some online galleries that would be fantastic.
-bradesp
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hector8762
Registered Users
Posts:12
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| 04/07/2008 1:09 PM |
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You could use non-structural panels - OSB/foam/Blueboard - and save around $1.00 to $1.25 per square foot. ($3.75/sq ft instead of $5/sq ft)
You could also stick-frame a shell around your timberframe and shoot it full of cellulose or loose fiberglass. (Spray foam will cost approximately as much as SIP) Depending on design, you could probably build your walls for $2.50 per sq ft.
I am facing much the same problem as you - selecting a shell for my timberframe. I have the added concern of traffic noise near my house. Currently (and this changes from week to week), I'm planning on building a staggered-stud wall of 2x4's on 2x8 sills. This will give me an R-value near 30 and an STC of (I hope) 45-50, all for about $3.00/sq ft.
I agree with you concerning the "fake" timberframe. If you want the look, build the real thing. If you want the savings, scrap the timber frame altogether. |
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energysmartpanel
Registered Users
Posts:1
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| 07/04/2008 7:21 PM |
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If your're thinking on post and beam for the structural support. Then you can do your own panels. You can by one or two five galloons pail of adhesive (enough to do the project. Since you will be built non structural panel instead of structuaral panel. You can then laminate osb on one side, your foam/ aand either osb or sheetrock on the inside. It's easy to do and can be done in one day of pressing'
Dennis Warren |
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