Steel SIP Roof
Last Post 21 Jul 2008 06:04 PM by cmkavala. 13 Replies.
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17 Jul 2008 06:06 PM
I am considering 26 ga steel sips for the roof of my building and have some questions.

Can they be walked on or will they dent easy?
What is the typical roofing material used as covering?
The underside will not be covered and as I understand are white. Is this a matte finish or gloss and how are the acoustics?
Finally does anyone have first hand experience living with this type roof on a long term basis?
Pros and Cons.

Thanks,

AutoEAC


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17 Jul 2008 08:31 PM
Posted By AutoEAC on 07/17/2008 6:06 PM
[b]I am considering 26 ga steel sips for the roof of my building and have some questions.

Can they be walked on or will they dent easy?
What is the typical roofing material used as covering?
The underside will not be covered and as I understand are white. Is this a matte finish or gloss and how are the acoustics?
Finally does anyone have first hand experience living with this type roof on a long term basis?
Pros and Cons.

Thanks,

AutoEAC[/b]
AutoEAC,

They don't dent easily, but they will dent.

we use all types of roofing following shows shingles going on

http://southernsips.com/job_hudson.html

I have lived in one for 7 years and another for 4 years , my opinion is biased

accoustics are similar to frame construction, they still get drywall on the inside, carpet on floors , etc.

DONALDSONs posts are from an owners perspective


finish is as shown in picture attached

the PROs are as follows

Although any SIP construction will save 50 – 60% in energy costs, are 3 times stronger than frame, and are more environmentally friendly. Steel is a better choice for the following reasons

 

Advantages of Steel SIPs vs.OSB

v  Steel will not warp, swell, twist, rot

v  Rain during construction do not affect materials in any way

v  No cranes needed for installation a steel SIPs are lighter than OSB

v  The underside of the roof panel automatically forms an attractive finished soffit overhang or exterior porch ceiling.

v  Joints are a T&G friction fit they do not require splines, mastic or fasteners greatly speeding installation time

v  Steel is more stable during manufacturing and panels are held to 1/16” tolerance

v  OSB is limited to 24ft. in length …Steel SIPs are available up to 53ft. in length, eliminating butt joints

v  Steel panels are manufactured on a continuous line making them available in square pre-cut lengths in  ¼ ” increments, but only charged to the nearest  ½ ft., OSB often rounds up to the nearest 2 ft. increment – making you pay for waste that gets thrown away

v  Higher ” R – Value denser foam provides a 4.25 R- value per inch of foam

v  No Termites … Impervious to termites and carpenter ants , foam core is borate treated

v  No foam grooving is required for window and door openings, after cutouts are made, openings are simply “picture framed” with 18.ga. steel channels

v  The steel skin is the “vapor barrier” on walls no additional covering is required before siding is applied

v  Eave overhangs can be 4 feet with no additional support

v  Sound Control – utilizing a 1-1/2” steel furring strip creates a dead air space for improved STC ratings.

v  Wiring – utilizing that same air space, wiring is much easier than fishing wire thru OSB and any future retrofit wiring is easier.

v  Will not support mold growth – painted galvalume steel skins are UDSA approved

v  Indoor air quality is better due to the tighter and cleaner construction material of the interior

v  Any steel building is safer from lightning strikes

v  “Monocoque construction” All connections and attachments are with screws having greater pullout strength than nailing

v  For economy or insulated utility buildings, steel SIPs have been left exposed as the finished siding and roofing.

v  Zurich Ins. In partnership with the Steel Framing Alliance offer reduced builders risk insurance premiums

v  In Florida and other hurricane prone regions Steel SIPs are 30% less to insure that block/truss and  53% less to insure than wood frame construction

 


Attachment: Heilicka......Peepels 002.JPG
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Attachment: Heilicka......Peepels 007.JPG

Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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18 Jul 2008 12:00 PM
What about Hail in general or storm damage to steel SIPS? Can dents be fixed or perhaps a branch makes a tear in the sip? How are they fixed? How susceptible are steel SIPS to being dented by hail?

Thanks Chris, you offer a lot of great info and are an asset to this forum.


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18 Jul 2008 12:14 PM
Seems to me that if you leave your steel SIP exposed, without any sort of shingles or other cladding on top of it), it will need to be replaced eventually.  And that means replacing the whole thing, not just the skin.  Paint and galvanized coatings just don't last forever, and exposing them directly to intense heat, UV radiation, rain, hail, sleet, snow, ice, bird droppings, and air pollution will wear them out.  Unless you want to replace your entire roof system, insulation and all, in 50 years (maybe less, maybe more, but some day without a doubt), put some sort of cladding over it.  Steel can accept any type of cladding, I'm sure -- asphalt shingles, standing seam metal (yeah, let that layer of metal take the abuse, and just replace it when necessary), clay/slate/concrete (with appropriate consideration given to weight), etc.



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18 Jul 2008 12:28 PM
Posted By slenzen on 07/18/2008 12:00 PM
What about Hail in general or storm damage to steel SIPS? Can dents be fixed or perhaps a branch makes a tear in the sip? How are they fixed? How susceptible are steel SIPS to being dented by hail?

Thanks Chris, you offer a lot of great info and are an asset to this forum.
Slenzen;

like this tree that fell on my office Monday Morning? tree surgeon said roof was bearing most of the tree weight, after it was removed yesterday it sustained just minor shingle damage and one small skin puncture.

we will remove shingles and stitch a patch over area & re- shingle,

if we can cut 2ft x 4ft. skylights thru the roof, small punctures are insignificant and basically will not leak thru until repaired

I don't like to see the steel SIPs left exposed for aesthetic reasons, but would not expect any great hail damage as steel has solid foam backing and is resilient.
The 2x4 out of a cannon impact test, does not penetrate the outside skin on walls


Attachment: tree Damage 005.JPG
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Attachment: tree Damage 004.JPG

Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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18 Jul 2008 12:42 PM
Posted By rnortman on 07/18/2008 12:14 PM
Seems to me that if you leave your steel SIP exposed, without any sort of shingles or other cladding on top of it), it will need to be replaced eventually.  And that means replacing the whole thing, not just the skin.  Paint and galvanized coatings just don't last forever, and exposing them directly to intense heat, UV radiation, rain, hail, sleet, snow, ice, bird droppings, and air pollution will wear them out.  Unless you want to replace your entire roof system, insulation and all, in 50 years (maybe less, maybe more, but some day without a doubt), put some sort of cladding over it.  Steel can accept any type of cladding, I'm sure -- asphalt shingles, standing seam metal (yeah, let that layer of metal take the abuse, and just replace it when necessary), clay/slate/concrete (with appropriate consideration given to weight), etc.

rnortman;

I don't endorse leaving exposed ( just cause there not pretty) but the skins are painted galvalume, with a 20 year warranty.

 Galvalume is used  often for roofing around saltwater coastal environments for its durability,

We have put all those claddings over the skin



Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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18 Jul 2008 01:38 PM
Posted By cmkavala on 07/18/2008 12:42 PM

I don't endorse leaving exposed ( just cause there not pretty) but the skins are painted galvalume, with a 20 year warranty.

20 years is a fine warranty for a roof cladding (and I suspect it's conservative).  I expect a little more life out of my roof deck.  The SIPs are the roof deck, and expensive to replace.  Put a more easily replaced cladding over the deck to protect it.  I'm sure galvalume will last far more than 20 years if there's another cladding over it, so long as moisture can drain away from it.



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18 Jul 2008 03:04 PM
We are thinking TPO for the roof—only because standing seam metal is too expensive. I am concerned about how that will be adhered to the metal —they usually put gravel on top but this roof slopes too much for that. I’m not really enamored with the idea of screw mounting into the sips and busting that metal surface with a chance of moisture contamination.
As I said the ceiling I want to be uncoated —hate drywall.
Anyone have experience with this in a residential situation - day to day?

Thanks for all your help

AutoEAC

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18 Jul 2008 03:38 PM
You really want to be green?  That design would work well with a green roof -- i.e., stuff growing on it, like grasses and/or mosses.  Of course, that adds lots of additional structural support requirements, drainage considerations, and all the extra cost that stuff entails.  And you might not like the aesthetics.  But I think it can be done with that roof pitch, and there are significant thermal benefits.

I wouldn't be too concerned about screws piercing the SIPs skin.  That's done all the time.  You just have to do it right.  Most likely, you are going to have to have screws going all the way through both skins just to attach the SIPs to the rafters or beams underneath.  At least, most attachment details I've seen for OSB SIPs do it that way; maybe metal is different.



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18 Jul 2008 05:22 PM
Posted By AutoEAC on 07/18/2008 3:04 PM
We are thinking TPO for the roof—

AutoEac;

TPO is available in a self adhere or vacuum vent attachement, the vacuum has little vent around perimeter, so the harder the wind blows the more suction is created to hold tight to the substrate. Either way no ballast is neccessary


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18 Jul 2008 05:25 PM
Posted By AutoEAC on 07/18/2008 3:04 PM
 I’m not really enamored with the idea of screw mounting into the sips and busting that metal surface with a chance of moisture contamination.

As I said the ceiling I want to be uncoated —hate drywall.
AutoEAC;

how is it any different with OSB and thousands of shingle nail penetrations?

If you live anywhere they enforce codes  - drywall is a required covering for 15 min thermal barrier



Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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21 Jul 2008 05:08 PM
On the use of the steel SIPs on the roof or the attachment of the walls to the slab, is there a thermal break between the outside and inside of the house to keep the steel from wicking the heat or cold into the house

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21 Jul 2008 05:18 PM
Posted By ken75459 on 07/21/2008 5:08 PM
On the use of the steel SIPs on the roof or the attachment of the walls to the slab, is there a thermal break between the outside and inside of the house to keep the steel from wicking the heat or cold into the house

Have a look at this thread where the issue was recently discussed.  cmkavala posted a drawing of a wall/roof connection detail with a thermal break.  I don't know about the wall/slab or wall/floor connections.  Wall/floor is sometimes done in "balloon framing" style with OSB SIPs, where the outside wall is continuous and the floor hangs on a ledger board attached to the inner skin only.  Should be possible to do something like that with steel given the proper fasteners and spacing.


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21 Jul 2008 06:04 PM
Posted By rnortman on 07/21/2008 5:18 PM
Posted By ken75459 on 07/21/2008 5:08 PM
  Should be possible to do something like that with steel given the proper fasteners and spacing.
It is how we prefer it see attached detail, it shows .032 aluminum skin panels, but works the same with 26. ga. steel

Attachment: joist connection.pdf

Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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