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Ron
Registered Users
Posts:1
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| 09/06/2008 8:14 AM |
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See Hardie Technical Bulletin 07102008 on how to do it. (Too big to attach but can email to you if you like.)
Ron |
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CenterHillBP
Registered Users
Posts:7
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| 09/23/2008 3:21 PM |
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Not trying to sound like a salesman, but it is REALLY important to let you all know of all the other great products out there.
For this, I wouldn't use Hardie Siding....I would use Magnum Lap Siding. This siding is made of Magnesium Oxide. |
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TFreidman
Registered Users
Posts:20
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| 09/23/2008 3:34 PM |
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Posted By CenterHillBP on 09/23/2008 3:21 PM
Not trying to sound like a salesman, but it is REALLY important to let you all know of all the other great products out there.
For this, I wouldn't use Hardie Siding....I would use Magnum Lap Siding. This siding is made of Magnesium Oxide.
where does one find a distributor for this siding?
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CenterHillBP
Registered Users
Posts:7
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| 09/23/2008 3:37 PM |
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We are the distributor for Magnum Lap Siding. You can find our contact number at www.centerhillbp.com
Give us a call, you will be VERY impressed with this product. |
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Dick Mills
Registered Users
Posts:124
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| 09/23/2008 4:15 PM |
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| CenterHillBP, How does Magnum Lap Siding compare price wise with Hardipanel or plank siding? I can get both of the Hardie products for about $0.72 / square foot retail at Home Depot. |
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CenterHillBP
Registered Users
Posts:7
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| 09/24/2008 8:23 AM |
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Dick,
I really don't want to put a price out here on the forum...different people will get different prices. If you want a bunch, you will get a better price than that person who wants a little. I don't want to put a specific price out there without knowing your needs.
However, you have heard "You get what you pay for". If you want a cheaper product, it will be cheaper. It you want a superior product, it will be more expensive.
Our contact information is on our website, www.centerhillbp.com. Feel free to give us a call to discuss this further. |
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All SIPs
Registered Users
Posts:2
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| 09/24/2008 8:28 AM |
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That seemed to be a non-answer... but from all the sources I get quotes on MGO board from -- dragonboard, magboard, magnum board -- it usually comes in .80/sft. Hardie in volumes, if you're a manufacturer of substantial quantity, you should get pricing at .45-.55/sft. Soi MGO sounds expensive... plus untested, untested to ICC, and questionably in regards to water/moisture mgmt...
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CenterHillBP
Registered Users
Posts:7
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| 09/24/2008 8:36 AM |
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Not really a non answer, I just don't want to put general prices out there.
You are right though, siding made of MgO will probably be more expensive.
As for the testing, if you would like more information, you can call Center Hill Building Products LLC at 352-242-4438. |
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Garybk
Registered Users
Posts:28
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| 10/01/2008 10:44 PM |
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I just had 500+ boards of hardie siding dropped off at my SIP house this week. I am going to tackle this project myself. It is a 3000 ft sq 2 story walkout. 36' from ground to peak of gables. It feels like I have investigated this to death so I hope some of what I am going to do is useful to you . I DID NOT want to face nail anywhere and my house is on a 2 acre pond with no windbreaks at all on the northwest exposure. I wanted to make sure that my product was warrantied on my sip house by Hardie. On contacting them they told me that I would need to have furring strips every 12" and the product would need to be screwed on in order to keep the warranty valid.
Here is what I have done. I have ripped down 7/16" osb into 3" strips and am attaching them as I go along 12"OC with a paslode staple gun with about 2" staples. I notice that I need to staple fairly well in order to not have the osb strip push away from the sip osb as the screw goes in. I notice that it still does it even with lots of staples so I am going to cut back on the staples (to save money) and what I am experimenting with is screwing the screw part way and then backing it up a bit until the two osbs are tight together ant then sending it home. You have one try with the hardie screws as the phillips head strips easy. I wish they were made with robertson heads. I researched for a good screw and found one by Grabber. When I went to pick up a box of 4000 of them the fellow told me guys are in fact using them for Hardie siding. They screw is there number XGCB8125HL #8 by 1-1/4". Can I post a link on this site? The head is much bigger than their website shows. They have nibs under the head that seat the head into the hardieboard. I was testing some boards out and wanted to take them off. I stripped one of the screws and could not get it off. I had a hard time breaking the head through just one of the boards with the claw of my hammer. Those screws on two layers of 7/16" osb 12" on center and I can't see that siding even coming off in a hurricane! When I started strapping is sure looks like overkill every 12", but once i thought about it, I know that I will have perfectly straight non-wavy siding.
So I tyveked the house, am putting 7/16" strips every 12"OC. I had to figure out what to do for the windows and corners, which after 2 days of fooling around with it I came up with what I think is the perfect solution. My windows have just shy of one inch of profile and the doors about 1-1/8" of profile. If you are interested I can detail that for you if you are going to do the furring technique. What really sold me on furring and not face nailing was the airspace behind. This means I will never have water problems. I am considering putting a small blob of PL-? on the top of the last attached board before the next one goes on about every 24" maybe 36" to kind of give a face nail support on my North and West sides where I get the wind. But I think it may be gross overkill. What do you guys think.
I was going to put that stuff on the bottom of the starter strip that they use for ridge roof venting, but there was no room for it once I ripped down my 1-1/4" starter strip. This goes over a 3" horizontal osb strip at the bottom. I took the stuff back to Home Depot and saved $100 LOL. I am going to parge up against the bottom of this anyway. I am thinking of possibly painting the exposed part of the osb with thompsons water seal, but probably won't as it will be covered with parging anyway.
I am using 8.25 in siding with 7" exposure. At the butt joints I am going to put about a 10" or so piece of osb behind it and then a strip of tyvek over it as per the hardie instructions. There will be no caulking at the butt joints.
Is there a way to post pictures of what I am doing here?
G |
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Garybk
Registered Users
Posts:28
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| 10/01/2008 10:49 PM |
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I just looked this up, I think it is the screw I used. Let me know if you want to be sure and I will dig up my invoice.
http://www.grabberman.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemid=XGCB8125HL&class=6&packtypeid=1&pkey=Fasteners|Screws|Screw+Selector|Grabber+Cement+Board+Self+Piercing&pval=1|25|0|XGCB8125HL&pIds=CategoryID|ProductTypeID|Selector|itemid
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Garybk
Registered Users
Posts:28
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| 11/19/2008 9:12 PM |
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| How can I post some pictures here? |
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tlynch
Registered Users
Posts:76
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| 11/20/2008 4:01 PM |
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Garybk -
Thanks for the great, well-detailed, infromation. Do you think you could quickly add your knowledge to the Siding Options For OSB SIPS thread where I am trying to gather an overview of siding options?
http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Forums/tabid/53/forumid/5/postid/45610/view/topic/Default.aspx
Thanks!
Todd
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Garybk
Registered Users
Posts:28
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| 11/27/2008 2:28 PM |
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So would that mean that with sufficient screws, kitchen cabinets could be hung right through the 1/2" drywall and into the 7/16" OSB and give enough holding power to secure the cabinets? I was going to glue and screw 1/2" strips of plywood where the nailing strips are on the cabinets and then drywall around them. (actually on the lower nailing flange I was going to go from there down to the upper flange on the base cabinet and then apply my ceramic tile backsplash right to the plywood.
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PanelCrafters
Registered Users
Posts:1329
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| 11/27/2008 5:11 PM |
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Posted By Garybk on 11/27/2008 2:28 PM
So would that mean that with sufficient screws, kitchen cabinets could be hung right through the 1/2" drywall and into the 7/16" OSB and give enough holding power to secure the cabinets?
Look at using large 'Molly' Bolts(expanding wall anchors). They will do the job.
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....jc
If you're not building with OSB SIPS(or ICF's), why are you building? |
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Garybk
Registered Users
Posts:28
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| 11/28/2008 12:06 AM |
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Hi Todd. Yes I can put some info together when I get some time. I am going full out on installing my siding right now. I have learned a lot and it is going very well.
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