Amvic Texas
 New Member
 Posts:6
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| 22 Apr 2008 11:19 PM |
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I am about to start a house in TX. The woman wants radiant floor heating in the bathrooms. I have zero experience. What is the best way to go, hydronic or electrical. Thanks in advance. |
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warmsmeallup
 Basic Member
 Posts:131

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| 23 Apr 2008 06:32 AM |
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What is the open floor square footage? |
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| <a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com" target="_blank">COMFORT RADIANT HEATING, LLC</a><br> <a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/zmeshinterior.php" target="_blank">Floor Warming</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/roof-deicing.php" target="_blank">Roof De-Icing</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/snow-melting.php" target="_blank">Snow Melting</a> |
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NRT.Rob
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1741
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| 23 Apr 2008 09:53 AM |
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If you don't already have a hydronic heating system to tie into, I would definitely go electric for a "bathrooms only" system. |
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| Rockport Mechanical<br>RockportMechanical.com |
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bwheeler1
 New Member
 Posts:40
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| 24 Apr 2008 11:41 AM |
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What are some of the better (i.e. cost effective and good performance) "bathroom only" electric solutions?
Thanks.
Brian. |
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Amvic Texas
 New Member
 Posts:6
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| 25 Apr 2008 07:44 AM |
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Total slab area is about 5500 sq. ft. The bathrooms are on opposite ends of the house. My thought was to use pex and a small tankless heater for each room. However with no experience I'm worried that I will spend the clients money and have a less than satisfactory result. |
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warmsmeallup
 Basic Member
 Posts:131

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| 25 Apr 2008 08:39 AM |
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I'm guessing that the 5500 represents total square footage, not just the bathrooms. You need to answer the question already asked: what is the open square footage of each bathroom?
If there is no other hydronics in the home now, as it appears by your thoughts of using a tankless system, you would be much better off with an electric radiant system. If you have had problems in the past and are not comfortable using electric, use a low voltage "Floorizwarm" system (depending on the open square footage).
If any damage is done to the element in the future, it is traceable and easily repaired by just removing the tiles above the element and splicing the copper stranded, insulated wire with a butt splice and some heat shrink. |
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| <a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com" target="_blank">COMFORT RADIANT HEATING, LLC</a><br> <a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/zmeshinterior.php" target="_blank">Floor Warming</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/roof-deicing.php" target="_blank">Roof De-Icing</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/snow-melting.php" target="_blank">Snow Melting</a> |
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RKO
 New Member
 Posts:4
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| 04 Jun 2008 08:50 PM |
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Electric Radiant in the bathroom is the way to go, count on cost of $14 - $18/square/Ft installed and they will be very please with you. |
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Jelly
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1017
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| 05 Jun 2008 11:07 AM |
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RKO, what kind of systems do you install?
warmsmeallup, what kind of problems with electric are you referring to? |
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warmsmeallup
 Basic Member
 Posts:131

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| 05 Jun 2008 05:15 PM |
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Nick a cable and in a month or so, it's garbage. Some elements, like low voltage, can be repaired. The line voltage systems are difficult, if not impossible to fix.
Line voltage also can't be cut and spliced in the field like low voltage. Needless to say, we stick with the low voltage when it comes to installations. I still sell Danfoss when they want to keep within a budget, but I won't install it. |
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| <a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com" target="_blank">COMFORT RADIANT HEATING, LLC</a><br> <a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/zmeshinterior.php" target="_blank">Floor Warming</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/roof-deicing.php" target="_blank">Roof De-Icing</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/snow-melting.php" target="_blank">Snow Melting</a> |
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Jelly
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1017
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| 05 Jun 2008 07:49 PM |
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So line voltage systems are less expensive than low voltage then? A price of $14 - $18/square/Ft was mentioned - is that realistic for low-voltage? How do they compare in efficiency? |
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warmsmeallup
 Basic Member
 Posts:131

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| 05 Jun 2008 08:52 PM |
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Their efficiency is the same, 100%. In the truest sense of the term. All of the electricty drawn is converted into heat and is fully utilized in the floor and then by you, without loss. The difference is in the design of the system, it's abilities and repairability.
Yes, line voltage costs less because there is no transformer and in larger systems, no computer to monitor it. They also come with much longer warranty's (25 years) and can also be used as primary heating when designed correctly. Where you wouldn't use line voltage cables, under hardwood, i.e., low voltage Zmesh can be installed without worry of being damaged by nails, screws or staples.
Low voltage "Floorizwarm" systems can be cut in the field (by a technician using an optional splice kit) and jumped to heat the seat in a shower or around a Jacuzzi. |
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| <a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com" target="_blank">COMFORT RADIANT HEATING, LLC</a><br> <a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/zmeshinterior.php" target="_blank">Floor Warming</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/roof-deicing.php" target="_blank">Roof De-Icing</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/snow-melting.php" target="_blank">Snow Melting</a> |
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