Electric baseboard heat
Last Post 07 Nov 2008 06:23 AM by BadgerBoilerMN. 3 Replies.
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cabinboyUser is Offline
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06 Nov 2008 12:17 AM

We've decided to go with electric heat (and a good wood stove) because we are at 10400 feet, and propane becomes inefficient and expensive up here. Looks like, in addition to the standard inexpensive baseboard heaters, there are the more expensive hydronic electric baseboard heaters (not to be confused with hydronic hot water baseboard heaters) and also some electric baseboard heaters with a heavy steel heat exchanger. The latter two provide a large thermal mass that presumably gives a more even and pleasant radiant heat. To make things more interesting, there are "smart" thermostats that cycle relatively quickly (about every 20 seconds) so that it seems like even the lowly standard baseboard heater would put out an even heat.

The question is does anyone have any experience with these alternatives? Why would a fluid-filled heater be better than a heavy steel heater? Both have high thermal mass? Why wouldn't a standard heater (low thermal mass) work effectively the same way (even heat) if coupled with a "smart" thermostat? And what about noise -- that cracking and popping one can hear when a heater comes on?

Dana1User is Offline
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06 Nov 2008 02:19 PM
Just a guess, but I'd hazard that the standard low-mass resistance baseboards are convectors, designed such that they need a high delta-T between the air & the heating element to convect, so the transfer-efficiency goes down considerably at lower temps. They hydronic or oil-filled versions provide much more heating element-to-air surface area and are probably designed as radiators rather than convectors. Radiators are inherently more comfortable than convectors 'cuz you get that nice warm glow at a distance without requiring the air to be warm. (Reflective resistance-heat radiators are a fire hazard, whereas the hydronic versions aren't as capable of focused superheating.)

I'm not sure what cracking & popping you're referring to- could it be the ticking of the element heating up as the crystalline structure of the metals changes with temp, or are you referring to an electrical arcing at the switching element of the T-stat, or is there something else?

As for the heavy-steel heater, the specific-heat of steel is only about 1/9 that of water, so pound-for-pound you get an order of magnitude more thermal buffering out of water. It takes 75lbs of steel to get the equivalent thermal-mass of a gallon of water- HOW heavy is that steel heater, again? :-)
cabinboyUser is Offline
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06 Nov 2008 10:03 PM
Thanks, Dana1. This is very helpful -- I really didn't understand the difference between a cheapo convective heater and the more expensive hydronic heaters. Now the question is -- does it make sense to couple a hydronic heater with a fancy (and expensive) thermostat that modulates the power to keep the heat at a steady +/- 1 degree level? Or does the thermal mass of the heater effectively do this for you?

(BTW, the popping/cracking I was talking about is due to the heating up of the element or radial fins,not the thermostat, although I've heard this noise with portable oil-filled heaters as well).
BadgerBoilerMNUser is Offline
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07 Nov 2008 06:23 AM
Electric, modulating boiler with outdoor reset connected to Euro-panels and conventional room thermostats. It is not the thermal mass (though wall panels will idle more than fin-tube) but the modulation of delivered water temperature that makes for sustained comfort. See Electro boilers and Buderus panels.
MA<br>www.badgerboilerservice.com
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