MN new icf/concrete plank radiant advice needed asap
Last Post 11 Sep 2009 01:53 PM by pete280. 5 Replies.
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pete280User is Offline
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09 Sep 2009 08:48 PM
Please forgive me for not doing all of my research first but i have a slow computer and am running short on time!

So far, over the last 10 months ive built a 1700sf 8" ICF basement w/50sf glass, 1700sf 6"ICF main floor, 300sf glass with 450sf garage, vaulted ceiling and hollow core concrete plank floor.  So far i've designed and built everything myself in my evenings, weekends and vacations working through a MN winter (fun!).

Planning on geo-thermal heat pump (ground loop) w/radiant floor heat, 2" gypsum or similar topping on main floor and 4" slab over 2" HD insulation on grade for basement and garage.

Heres my problem, i need to get the radiant pipes in for the main flor ASAP (like the next week) so i can carry on with construction and get moved in before winter comes. I can worry about the basement and heatpump later.

Normally i would spend many weeks researching each step but for reasons i wont go into, i cant right now. Im looking for quick advice on types of pipe, how best to install, how to size, layout etc. Helpful tips, hints or advice, what to do, what not to do.

Please dont tell me to hire a contractor (i'd love to) because its unfortunately just not within my budget.

Ive found this forum very helpful so far with my ICF design and construction.

Thanks in anticipation for your help and advice.

Peter
NRT.RobUser is Offline
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10 Sep 2009 07:51 AM
I have to tell you thought GSHP radiant is not easy to fly blind very well. you can lose a COP trivially easily if you mess up the tubing install. That's for the life of the building, so you have to weigh that against your construction timeframe.

You can mitigate that possible issue by doing "CYA" tubing: 6" o.c. in thin pour, anywhere that might possibly set your highest water temperature requirement (high load areas, high room temps like bathrooms, any rooms with carpeting, though if you can skip carpeting that's best). Keep your loop lengths to 250 or less in any high load areas especially. Isolate all major rooms on their own loops. and use barrier pipe.

You are going to put more pipe in than you need. but it will be worth it. it would suck to lose a COP forever because you skimped now running without numbers. so the cost of surety here is more pipe.
Rockport Mechanical<br>RockportMechanical.com
RadiantRobUser is Offline
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11 Sep 2009 12:04 PM

NRT.Rob,
I got the "GSHP" and the "CYA" but what does the "COP" stand for?

Pete280, 
I agree with NRT.Rob, pile it on… Have you thought about installing a backup system as your initial heating system, then adding the GSHP later. It’s a way of deferring the expense of the Ground Source till a later date. I know it will cost more in the long run, but hey, the up front savings may be worth it.

RadiantRob

 



 

 

 

RadiantRob<br>Radiant Heat Designer<br>http://www.radiantdirect.com
NRT.RobUser is Offline
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11 Sep 2009 12:07 PM
CoEfficient of Production. if you use 1 watt of energy and get 3 watts of heat, that's a COP of 3.
Rockport Mechanical<br>RockportMechanical.com
RadiantRobUser is Offline
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11 Sep 2009 12:34 PM

NRT.Rob,

I got ya! I don't deal much with ground source systems.

Thanks for the reply. You learn something new everyday.

RadiantRob

RadiantRob<br>Radiant Heat Designer<br>http://www.radiantdirect.com
pete280User is Offline
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11 Sep 2009 01:53 PM
I contacted a supplier of radiant pipe and supplies and was quoted 1 lin ft 1/2" pipe per sf so it sounds like 12" or 9" OC providing i'm consistent should work, keeping pipe lengths below 300' for even temps and zoning each space. I can always use the furnace from my old house which is only about 2 yrs old connected to the new Ac ducting as a temporary solution after i have the pipework in.

Question: should i bring each radiant loop back to my mecghanical room to tie into a manifold or run the primary supply/ret to a central location in the house and install my manifold there, does it make a difference?
Also whats the best method of securing the pipe to my concrete plank floor before pouring the topping?

Thanks for the advice so far.

Peter
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