warmfloor radiant heat
Last Post 17 Feb 2010 04:36 PM by nahthataintme. 17 Replies.
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JerseyflowUser is Offline
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15 Feb 2010 01:44 PM
don't use electic radiant cable heating when you can use step warmfloor. warmfloor uses 1\4 the watts nessary to heat.

that's not info you ever hear form the cable guy's but it's true!
NRT.RobUser is Offline
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15 Feb 2010 01:48 PM
Man, I'd much rather use something that uses ALL the watts necessary to heat.

If you only use 1/4 the watts, you'll be pretty chilly!

Rockport Mechanical<br>RockportMechanical.com
JerseyflowUser is Offline
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15 Feb 2010 02:08 PM
maybe i wasn't very clear.  more cable heaters are useing 14 to 20watts per sq ft to get the same amount of heat we can provide with just 4watts.  more watts is not what most people want. unless your selling the cable product.
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15 Feb 2010 03:39 PM
I don't know much about it, but I'd have a pretty hard time seeing where 10 to 16 watts of energy "went" with the cable system if it wasn't being turned into heat. What's your explanation for that apparently physics-defying loss of energy?

Sounds just WEEE bit like snake oil to me. and that's probably the most civil I could be in framing what I really think about that kind of a claim. You can't even have that kind of a differential with electric baseboard, never mind a competing electric radiant product.

Rockport Mechanical<br>RockportMechanical.com
warmsmeallupUser is Offline
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15 Feb 2010 07:19 PM
Even Step doesn't say it's 4 watts psf. So, it sounds more like 'inexperience' than a factual claim.

If you're going to join a site like this one, make sure your claims come from fact, not fiction.
<a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com" target="_blank">COMFORT RADIANT HEATING, LLC</a><br> <a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/zmeshinterior.php" target="_blank">Floor Warming</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/roof-deicing.php" target="_blank">Roof De-Icing</a><br><a href="http://www.comfortradiant.com/snow-melting.php" target="_blank">Snow Melting</a>
Blueridgecompany.comUser is Offline
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15 Feb 2010 09:00 PM
OK......
Hour for hour energy sucked out of the building will be the same, no magic can work around that other than the insulation ( building load) The math is
10,000 BTU load =2930.70 watts How are you going to shave that watts load by 70 % and make it still work?
I'm missing something
Dan
Dan <br>BlueRidgeCompany.com
JerseyflowUser is Offline
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15 Feb 2010 10:11 PM

do your homewark and go to our website. primary heat using 4 watts per foot.

cables will tell you on there own site there using 15 watts per ft

 

www.warmfloor.com

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15 Feb 2010 10:30 PM
ok, so you're assuming about 15BTUs/sq ft , on 100% of the time. reasonable assumption. though short for a lot of spaces, I sure hope you CAN do more if needed. if not, you must have a lot of cold customers.

Dunno what the cable guys are assuming, but it sure isn't 51 BTUs/sq ft, on 100% of the time, or they would be sued out of existence with burned feet, ruined floors, and irate customers. So either that's a maximum rating or they have a cycle rate assumption in there somewhere.

or, I suppose, as you insinuated somehow they are what, 25% efficient? That really would be amazing. And we'd be back at "so, where does all that energy GO?"

I guess this sales pitch works better with people who can't do math and basic energy conversions?

You're making your company look bad.
Rockport Mechanical<br>RockportMechanical.com
JerseyflowUser is Offline
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16 Feb 2010 09:05 AM

don't worry about us. maybe you should listen to yourself. this custumer wants to use wood flooring over hydronic radiant heat in canada. maybe somone should warn him before they try to warm him.  and another thing how can anyone be making claims before they see a house plan with r values.

NRT.RobUser is Offline
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16 Feb 2010 09:18 AM
Uh, wrong thread. there is no 'customer' in this thread or particular system in discussion. Just you hawking your stuff with half truths and sleight of hand and apparently a total misunderstanding of how radiant floor heating works. Also, you're responding to the wrong poster. I never gave the one you're talking about any specific product recommendations. Just conversion math for different energy sources. But hey, you're batting zero so far, feel free to keep swinging until you get a hit. How about I toss you a meatball: electric radiant is hard to mess up. Discuss.
Rockport Mechanical<br>RockportMechanical.com
JerseyflowUser is Offline
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16 Feb 2010 09:26 AM
i don't like fighting...don't mean to insult or offend.
NRT.RobUser is Offline
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16 Feb 2010 09:31 AM
the only thing offensive around here are your sales pitches based on nothing.

back your stuff up with some numbers, real numbers, and be prepared to field the questions, or go away.
Rockport Mechanical<br>RockportMechanical.com
JerseyflowUser is Offline
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16 Feb 2010 10:33 AM

of course it is being turned into heat, at a constant rate of 15 watts regardless of outside variables... such as the room reaching temperature. Warmfloor is self regulating which allows it to maintain the rooms temperature at a much lower consumption rate. It takes less gas to keep a car at 65 mph than it does to get it to 65 mph. Warmfloor takes its foot off the gas, wire products dont. thats the difference.

JerseyflowUser is Offline
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16 Feb 2010 10:38 AM
and the number of 4 watts per foot is based on the product at 83 degrees WITH proper insulation.. at startup it runs at 7.8 which makes more sense in your calculations.
Blueridgecompany.comUser is Offline
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16 Feb 2010 11:02 AM
Jersey Flow,
Hey thanks for the heads up about using a hydronic heat based system under wood floors, I did not know it would not work. For the past decade I have had radiant heat under my wood floors and its worked fine. Maybe the heat is coming from the light bulbs???
In my world Electric radiant mat is useless unless in a bath room as a supplemental.
Do it right with Pex Pipe in floor.
Dan
Dan <br>BlueRidgeCompany.com
NRT.RobUser is Offline
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16 Feb 2010 11:06 AM
Now that sounds quite a bit different than "we use 1/4 the watts" , doesn't it?

Almost a reasoned stance. Of course, it has very little to do with efficiency and much more to do with comfort, so it bears very little resemblance to what is insinuated with your original statement. Since almost no one reading your post would have any idea what "1/4 the watts" means they would think it meant energy usage was lower. which it isn't. But it would be more comfortable in a low mass floor assembly, for sure, unless the cable mats can cycle infinitely with no issues. In that case, it would operate just as consistently to an end user without any apparent "break" in heating. but I have no idea if they can do that or not.

I think you probably have a pretty good product. No need to sully it with mealy mouth marketing attempts.

Rockport Mechanical<br>RockportMechanical.com
Dana1User is Offline
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16 Feb 2010 04:11 PM
Posted By NRT.Rob on 16 Feb 2010 09:18 AM
Uh, wrong thread. there is no 'customer' in this thread or particular system in discussion. Just you hawking your stuff with half truths and sleight of hand and apparently a total misunderstanding of how radiant floor heating works. Also, you're responding to the wrong poster. I never gave the one you're talking about any specific product recommendations. Just conversion math for different energy sources. But hey, you're batting zero so far, feel free to keep swinging until you get a hit. How about I toss you a meatball: electric radiant is hard to mess up. Discuss.

Uh, Rob...  methinks they're actually goin' for QUARTER truths here, no?

Can't cheat the phyics- if it's premised on using only 1/4 of the power, it has to be with the big asterisk *










































* Uses 1/4 the watts when the competitor's building envelope has U values four times that of our test case.

Don't they teach sales-droids ANYTHING these days?  (I'm guessing if they do, the First Law of Thermodynamics isn't on the exam.)
nahthataintmeUser is Offline
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17 Feb 2010 04:36 PM

There are a lot of altogether crappy products out there, but STEP Warmfloor isn't really one of them.

Without getting into all the reasons people try radiant floor heat, what can it be done with?  Electric resistance heaters and hydronic systems.  All of them have their pros and cons, and those are dificult to explain to folks that don't understand the principles at work.

I've heard horror stories of leaky pipes in hydronic systems and I've heard horror stories about electrical systems burning out after a few years.  I've seen decades old hydronic systems humming along like they were new, but I've yet to see a decades old electric radiant floor - because cables tend to burn out or get a corroded connection in the floor, or get broken during install and never do wind up working at all - and this stuff's only been out since the early 1980's.

But this product is not a cable.  It's a positive temperature coefficient resistor (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor) - which is about temperature precision in a limited temperature range.  The element can be punctured with fasteners if needed.  An installer's helper can trip over it or drop his hammer on it and it won't need to be replaced before the tile goes down.  It can't (barring negligence on the part of an installer) overheat and burn a floor.  It can't burn itself out.

For the comapny that knows what they're doing, this can be purchased and installed at a cost that is competitive to a hydronic system, it can be run off a Crestron home control system, and the element works at 24V - the same voltage that comes out of (most) solar panels - making it fit well with the off-grid crowd.

Yes their standard residential element runs at 7.8w/linear foot of element, with a maximum installed watt density in the neighborhood of 5.5 watts/square foot, and maxes out at about 82 degrees F.  And for the place that can be heated with that watt density , it's the best electric option (imho), and for the place that needs more, they make stronger elements.  This company that manufactures this product heats their building with this product.  I'm sure they'd welcome questions from anyone wondering what their electric bill looks like in this relatively cold St. Louis winter and what their total installed watt density is or whatever anyone wants to know.

On the other hand, as for their marketing campaign (or whatever Jersey thinks he's accomplishing) it seems their reps are stuck on the Billy Maysish "step right up, come one, come all" bs pitch looking for easy sales to wealthy housewives and not so knowledgable contractors instead of making a name for themselves as reputable, knowledgable salespersons of a decent product.

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