So in my planned new house I want to install infloor hydronic heating, but the prices for install are higher than expected. If I were to install the tubes myself how long would it take for a beginner using a detailed layout sheet to do 9 loops (2400 sq ft)?

If you have a heat load and CAD layout, the tubing is the easy part. Heat source, near piping and controls are a bit harder, but make sure you have a complete plan before buying a "package" i.e. an experienced installer to at least check the system before you flip the switch.

Most of the "designs" I review waste time and money.

I'm looking at a detailed plan similar to one done by NRT Radiant. How long would it take me to install the floor piping, a day, a week?

It took me a full day to do 1399 ft sq, about 1400 linear feet of 1/2 inch tubing, but I was working by myself - a BIG inconvenience, but one that could not be helped due to unforeseen circumstance. It was the first time I had ever worked with PEX and my first radiant system. I did have a very detailed and to scale map of the layout on graph paper, and used it extensively to keep everything where it was supposed to go. I also marked where the wall partitions were to go in chalk on the foam board under the rebar and wire mesh, and that was a big help.

-Rosalinda

Since two experienced installers can lay a 1000' of tube per hour, to industry standards, the "savings" are not going to be great. No wire mesh, no rod, no mistakes.

We install a lot of tube for future systems and install a lot of systems with DIY installed tube, which is usually sub-standard and sometimes not even radiant approved for the application...non-barrier PEX comes to mind.

An uncoiler is indispensable.

Every proper radiant floor heating system starts with a heat load analysis. Following basic industry standards can make the job easier and more successful without wasting time or resources.

http://www.radiantpanelassociation....#Product49

MA, you want the pros to have ALL the fun. :o)

An uncoiler would be nice, but they are not exactly available to rent everywhere. The coils come in a plastic wrap that is designed so that a DIYer CAN uncoil it without difficulty and without an uncoiler, but 2 people make it much more doable.

It is pleasant work, not physically demanding, and even if it took 2 days instead of 2 or 3 hours, it is definitely DIY doable, even with NO experience. Angel of Debt, I would be happy to supply you with a list of tips if you decide to do this yourself.

-Rosalinda

Radiant heating is a technology for heating indoor and outdoor areas. Radiant heating heats a building through radiant heat rather than other conventional methods including convection heating!


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SIPs

I am NOT a pro as I have only done this once. I did a large amount of reading and research and then did the installation for my new house. Here are the tips I followed and/or were led to by experience. I am sure the folks here will have additional or maybe better advice (other than hire it done by a pro):

Use Oxygen Barrier PEX

Be aware of how much PEX you have on each roll, and buy your PEX to minimize waste, based on the length of each circuit/loop. You do not want any splices in the slab in your circuits.

Be aware of where your expansion joints are going, you don't want to accidentally cut through your PEX when you put in the expansion joints. You might want to consult with your slab contractor so you have a plan in place on how to manage this.

Center the PEX in the concrete with at least 2 inches of concrete over the PEX. Hopefully the rebar and /or wire mesh will be centered so the PEX tied to it will be in the right place. I had a 6 inch slab and we used small concrete blocks to support the rebar/wire and PEX to the right height.

Make sure you know where the permanent manifold is going and provide supports for the supply and return PVC bends, so they remain straight when you pour your concrete.

Run your PEX through your PVC bend and fasten the bend to its support. Make sure you leave enough PEX to attach to your permanent manifold, give yourself enough extra. Attach the PEX supply side to the manifold. You can make a temporary manifold hooking all the supply lines together with PEX insert couplers and crimp rings, and plugging the return lines. Add your pressure test set up to the end of the temp manifold supply side.

The tubing is then zip tied to the slab welded wire and/or rebar. The spacing of the PEX depends upon the desired BTU output. Closer in traffic areas, further apart in closets etc 9 to 12 inch on center average. Follow your plan.

Zip tie to hold in place every 6 ft but make final adjustments before tying every 2 ft Do not tie tubing in end of loops or on bends to prevent kinking. Do not over tighten ties, allow for expansion of PEX.

Roll the PEX off the coil, one person rolling and one person tying and follow your pattern. When you get to the end of the circuit/loop, leave yourself enough length to hook to where your permanent manifold will be, cut the PEX, run it through your PVC bend, put a plug in the end using PEX insert plugs and a crimp ring. and fasten the PVC bend to its support. Repeat with the remaining circuits.

Clip all extra plastic on the zip ties short so the ends don't float to surface of the concrete

If you are going to put thermostat probes in the concrete, don't forget to do it before you pour.

Pressure test the PEX before you pour to your code reqs (mine was 100 psi for 15 min) and once you get the green light from the Bldg Inspector reduce the pressure to around 40 psi for the pour. Leave the PEX pressurized during the pour. Make sure when the concrete is poured that the PVC bends don't get knocked around. After the pour pressure test again to code req.

Hope this helps,
Rosalinda

Has anyone used PE-RT pipe?

https://keithspecialty.com/hvac.radiant_heat.htm
http://store.nrtradiant.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_32