I'm in the process of installing a closed loop 4 ton Climatemaster system with a Flowcenter pump. I've read the manuals for both systems, as well as a number of geothermal books from the IGSHPA and am pretty confident of what's needed "conceptually" to hook them up. The problem I'm having from a practical sense is understanding what fittings, values, gauges, and other plumbing hardware I need to build a robust and serviceable system. Being a very visual learner I've been scouring Google Images for pictures of systems to figure out what the best configuration is for the various components. Squinting at low resolution images works to some degree, but it's getting a bit frustrating. Some images I've looked at have complex set ups of pressure gauges, multiple, P/T ports, shut offs and disconnects and expansion tanks, whereas others are very basic with no gauges and use tee fittings and ball valves for pressurizing the system. So, what I'm looking for are diagrams, images and descriptions of peoples systems. I know this would be a lot of work for people to provide, but myself and others would be very grateful... Thanks -david

All that is needed to make the heat pump work is the flow center.   P/T ports are needed to verify proper operation.  As you have seen there are lots of gadgets you can add, none of which are necessary.

You can see a photo of my setup here
You can make it  simple or complex, the choice is yours.

Here's some photo's of my system.  This is the overall system, one feature I do like is the values that can controlled the exact GPM entering the system by adjusting how open the values are, the flow control in the middle of the two values lets you know what the GPM rate is.

David, The attached photo shows my B&D QT pump module which is used on non-pressurized ground loop. Two 3-way ball valves mount on the wall for hooking up the purge cart to flush & purge the loop field. A temperature gauge measure water coming from loop field and pressure gauge provides basic monitoring of the system. Just keep it simple. Bob

Hi all,

   Just getting interested in geothermal, and reading alot about it. I notice in these pics of closed loop systems that they don't have a pressure tank installed in view. I have seen them on a lot of GSHP install literature. Do your systems just rely on a good flush, purge and pressurization at install to keep air out? And do you have purge valves at high points to catch errant bubbles?

Thanks guys,

Its a really interesting forum you've got here.

My water-to-air GSHP closed loop is pressurized to 60 psi via a continuous connection to to domestic cold water (municipal system).  It also has purge valves at the highest points.

Best regards,

Bill

Yes and Yes.   The install classes that I have attended suggest leaving out pressure tanks since they are prone to leak after a few years.  However, there are  a lot of systems out there with pressure tanks,  it is really up to the installer.

I use:
1. Expansion tanks on both loops. Bladder tanks for DHW systems are about $35/. Do put an isolation valve on it then future replacement if required is trivial.
2. SpiraFlow (?) Air Purge Valves on both loops.
3. Domestic Cold Water Supplied to both loops with a PRV. Fill, Purge and Pre-charge is a piece of cake.
4. Locate any pumps such that they have as much static head as possible and any vertical installs must pump UP, not down.
5. Support each pump on both sides with sturdy but padded clamps.

These points will insure a silent system for the long pull.

Dick

I am very similar (with 2 water-to-air GSHPs connected to a single closed water loop):

I don't have number 1.  Not sure what value it is if also number 3 is in place.

I'm using the same air vents as noted in number 2.

My loop is also connected to Domestic Cold Water as in number 3, via a PRV.  Additionally, I have a solenoid that manages the loop's connection to DCW on a once per day basis.

I don't have 'flow centers' per se - my pumps are 'a la carte,' sturdily mounted as in number 5 above, with loop purge valves located outside of the residence.

Best regards,

Bill

The use of expansion tanks allows for charging the system at start-up and service using the domestic cold water connections but, with the added benefit of closing off the DCW under normal conditions. Even though I have check valves in addition to the PRVs, operating with the DCW OFF better precludes a chance backflow of pressurized system fluid into the domestic water system in case of pressure sags/water off. The system fluid is at best stale water and at worst an anti-freeze mixture, both non-potable.

Dick

TechGromit,

Do you know what brand your flow gauge is? I'm looking for something similar.

thanks!