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Need help with plumbing GSHP, solar, dhw, etc
Last Post 20 Apr 2011 03:14 PM by 86turbodsl. 11 Replies.
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86turbodsl
 New Member
 Posts:45
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| 06 Mar 2009 04:46 PM |
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Hi,
first time poster. I'm trying to figure out the best way to plumb my new house's HVAC system.
there's been some changes over the time my contractor and I have designed the system. Firstly, I'm a mechanical engineer and familiar with many HVAC concepts.
My system has been spec'd with the following:
sources/equipment: 3 ton GSHP water to water - climatemaster 40 gallon buffer tank - electric water heater desuperheater option 40 gallon electric water heater - DHW small 60,000 Btu boiler used as backup and some DHW heat Steibel eltron 106 gallon dual coil solar storage tank
loads: air handler using water coil cools whole house and heats partial house using a zone air valve. downstairs and both upstairs baths are heated with radiant in floor heat. garage and basement both have in floor heat.
three temps mixed down using manual mixing valves the wood floor radiant is one the tile floors are one the garage / basement is one
The HVAC guy, who is a friend, has been struggling with the system design a bit. He's currently got a single big pump trying to push all the radiant through the mixing valves and loads. I know he's trying to save me money, but I've got concerns that it's going to do the job. Up to now, the system is only partially functional. Our propane bill for the winter was pretty big. I'm concerned that we may not be getting the best efficiency.
I've also read some recent information that the desuperheater may not be plumbed correctly. Currently, the desuperheater dumps directly into the DHW tank. I've also got the eltron solar tank that I eventually want to get into play, and harvest some solar energy for DHW and maybe assist the GSHP. Right now, we've got capacity on the geo for about 30-35F outdoor temps, and below this, the boiler is running all the time.
I am looking for suggestions on the best way to plumb this. I've got siggys' book on hydronics, but it doesn't really get into a system this complex. My main thoughts have been to use a primary loop and have each source and load just tee into the primary with closely spaced tees to prevent hydraulic interaction. I'd probably split each water temp off and feed with a pump for each, using the zone valves to turn each zone on and off. I want to get the solar tank plumbed in, and use it to it's best use. Maximum heat storage is my goal, max efficiency. House is pretty big, so I want to make it as cheap to heat as possible.
With all that said, any suggestions on this system? I'd like to go two tank for the desuperheater but not sure how all this integrates. If this isn't the right forum, someone please let me know.
Thanks!
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geo fan
 Basic Member
 Posts:408
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| 06 Mar 2009 05:50 PM |
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Posted By 86turbodsl on 03/06/2009 4:46 PM Hi,
first time poster. I'm trying to figure out the best way to plumb my new house's HVAC system.
there's been some changes over the time my contractor and I have designed the system. Firstly, I'm a mechanical engineer and familiar with many HVAC concepts.
My system has been spec'd with the following:
sources/equipment: 3 ton GSHP water to water - climatemaster 40 gallon buffer tank - electric water heater desuperheater option 40 gallon electric water heater - DHW small 60,000 Btu boiler used as backup and some DHW heat Steibel eltron 106 gallon dual coil solar storage tank
loads: air handler using water coil cools whole house and heats partial house using a zone air valve. downstairs and both upstairs baths are heated with radiant in floor heat. garage and basement both have in floor heat.
three temps mixed down using manual mixing valves the wood floor radiant is one the tile floors are one the garage / basement is one
The HVAC guy, who is a friend, has been struggling with the system design a bit. He's currently got a single big pump trying to push all the radiant through the mixing valves and loads. I know he's trying to save me money, but I've got concerns that it's going to do the job. Up to now, the system is only partially functional. Our propane bill for the winter was pretty big. I'm concerned that we may not be getting the best efficiency.
I've also read some recent information that the desuperheater may not be plumbed correctly. Currently, the desuperheater dumps directly into the DHW tank. I've also got the eltron solar tank that I eventually want to get into play, and harvest some solar energy for DHW and maybe assist the GSHP. Right now, we've got capacity on the geo for about 30-35F outdoor temps, and below this, the boiler is running all the time.
I am looking for suggestions on the best way to plumb this. I've got siggys' book on hydronics, but it doesn't really get into a system this complex. My main thoughts have been to use a primary loop and have each source and load just tee into the primary with closely spaced tees to prevent hydraulic interaction. I'd probably split each water temp off and feed with a pump for each, using the zone valves to turn each zone on and off. I want to get the solar tank plumbed in, and use it to it's best use. Maximum heat storage is my goal, max efficiency. House is pretty big, so I want to make it as cheap to heat as possible.
With all that said, any suggestions on this system? I'd like to go two tank for the desuperheater but not sure how all this integrates. If this isn't the right forum, someone please let me know.
Thanks!
Thats a good one My first concern would be effective controll , outdoor reset I hope ? here is a good link with the basics http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/09wq-3apd.pdfSecond I would avoid zone valves on your system I would pipe reverse return header , each with its own circ The question is hot water My first thought is ( off the cuff mind you ) 3 tanks 1 straight electric not wired used as a pre warm tank for the desuperheater second the solar tank I would use a 3 phase indirect you have two options here use the solar loop through the coil or a seperate heat exchanger and use the indirect coil in series with you gshp loop to assist ground temps .a bypass would have to be piped for ac The standard thinking of piping is go warm to hot in series . This is the tricky part because predicting which tank will be warmer would be impossible as they both would vary . I would use a monoflow tee on the cold water inlet pushing half the cold water to each tank then the warm/hot would tee back together into the 3rd heat source either the boiler or a 3rd hot water heater . I would avoid both because I fail to see the benifit . My count is at least 6 circs |
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86turbodsl
 New Member
 Posts:45
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| 06 Mar 2009 08:30 PM |
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So using your proposal, the 106 gallon tank with two coils becomes the main DHW tank. The 40 gallon electric tank used for DHW currently becomes the preheat tank. The buffer stays as buffer? I guess it could work since the big tank has a bung for electric heat. The bigger issue is solar. If the big tank becomes DHW storage, it'll be hard to use that for any higher temps for solar correct?
Why no zone valves? Do they not work?
I don't currently have reset, but i suppose it could be added. My controls are PLC based. I programmed it. I can do about anything I want.
The last part with the monoflow tee, I'm just not following. I need to see a diagram I guess.
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geo fan
 Basic Member
 Posts:408
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geo fan
 Basic Member
 Posts:408
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| 06 Mar 2009 08:51 PM |
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What I was saying is have 2 first stage warming tanks in paralell both supplied with cold water , both feeding a single primary water heater Zone valves , it miight just be my pet peev but you end up over pumped or under depending on how many zones are calling and it seems like I replace 100 of them every winter . Controls will be key I would definitly add a outdoor reset to modulate and lock out the boiler above your balance temp |
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86turbodsl
 New Member
 Posts:45
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| 07 Mar 2009 11:48 AM |
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Posted By geo fan on 03/06/2009 8:51 PM What I was saying is have 2 first stage warming tanks in paralell both supplied with cold water , both feeding a single primary water heater Zone valves , it miight just be my pet peev but you end up over pumped or under depending on how many zones are calling and it seems like I replace 100 of them every winter . Controls will be key I would definitly add a outdoor reset to modulate and lock out the boiler above your balance temp Zone valves are definitely cheaper, but the pump issues get a little more complicated. I know the ECM pumps are just starting to become available, but probably $$$. Do you have any ideas on the single big pump shoving through 3 mixing valves to supply each zone valve? Seems like that's a misapplication of the mixing valves. I'm not 100% sure how those work, but seems like there would be temperature application issues. My thinking has always been you need a circulator for each temp water you want to move, regardless of how many zone valves are after the circ. Aren't there differential pressure releif valves for situations where the pump is too big? As far as the DHW goes, I don't have infinite mechanical room size. I need to be careful how many tanks I add. I know that the solar system when added needs a small draindown tank, so that needs a spot too.
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geo fan
 Basic Member
 Posts:408
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| 07 Mar 2009 02:47 PM |
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the pipe schematic I posted would require a variable speed pump if zone valves where to be used yes , but unnessarary if each zone has its own circ which is sized for that zone . radiant mixing valves are thermostatic I would put a dry well thermometer on each supply and return also each radiant zone has its own header for the loops in that zone most of which allow pressures to be adjusted for each loop in the zone as long as they are not more then recomended by the manufacturer. The circulators dont care what the temp is you would want to modulate the temp with the load not the pump ps you should mix after the zone valve/circ |
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86turbodsl
 New Member
 Posts:45
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| 07 Mar 2009 04:56 PM |
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Posted By geo fan on 03/07/2009 2:47 PM the pipe schematic I posted would require a variable speed pump if zone valves where to be used yes , but unnessarary if each zone has its own circ which is sized for that zone . radiant mixing valves are thermostatic I would put a dry well thermometer on each supply and return also each radiant zone has its own header for the loops in that zone most of which allow pressures to be adjusted for each loop in the zone as long as they are not more then recomended by the manufacturer. The circulators dont care what the temp is you would want to modulate the temp with the load not the pump ps you should mix after the zone valve/circ Yeah, the trouble is we have multiple zones on each water temp. so currently it looks like this: buffer tank -> big circ -> manifold ---> mixing valve 1 --> zone valves (multiple) --> loads | ----------> mixing valve 2 --> zone valves (multiple) --> loads | -----------> mixing valve 3 --> zone valves (multiple) --> loads If it was me, I'd have put the mixing valves in first, then circ each of those, then zone valves afterwords, with a DP valve on each one to prevent overpressure with a single zone operating. I can't control variable speed pumps with my controls. On or off only.
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geo fan
 Basic Member
 Posts:408
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| 07 Mar 2009 06:00 PM |
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can you post pictures?
are you in the design phase or are you haveing problems post install? |
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86turbodsl
 New Member
 Posts:45
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| 07 Mar 2009 10:07 PM |
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I'll have to take some.
It's partially installed.
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bartman99
 New Member
 Posts:57
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| 09 Mar 2009 03:56 PM |
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Hi,
We have a similar setup going in now. W-->W GTHP, solar HW, stoarage tank, hydronic RFH and water chilled air handlers for AC. It's not all in yet, so I can't tell you how it'll work. I've PM you with more infromation.
Bart
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86turbodsl
 New Member
 Posts:45
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| 20 Apr 2011 03:14 PM |
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Update: For closure sake, I have completed a retrofit of the system after my contractor and I parted ways. I reconfigured the system as follows: Heat pump fed to either of two 40 gallon buffer tanks, one hot one cold depending on season. Motorized ball valves select which one based on system needs. Air handler fed off upper outlets of either tank depending on valve positioning. Hot buffer feeds a parallel primary loop, feeding secondary loops one each for wood temps, tile temps and concrete temps. Geo pump is outdoor reset now based on outdoor temp sensor. Boiler injects heat into the return of the primary or hot water heater as needed. Geo pump desuperheater plumbed into pre-heat tank for DHW. I cannot state enough how important outdoor reset is for a system like this. Our first winter, my worst month was $660 electric AND $600 propane. In one month. After reconfiguration, my worst month this past winter was $450 electric. $20 in Propane. My monthly non-heat related electric runs about $200 due to computers and kids and whatnot. Some day I'll get some pics up on the web somewhere. Just thought I would close this up with a success story. |
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