fred farnsworth
 New Member
 Posts:7
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| 11 Dec 2009 09:27 PM |
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Hey folks,
Since my contractor blew me off after installing my geothermal unit, I am looking for information on how to connect my humidfier to the tranquility 27. I have it all mounted and ready to connect, just need a wiring diagram or info on how/where to connect the humidifier leads.
Cheers!
FRED
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jstelmack
 Basic Member
 Posts:127
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| 11 Dec 2009 09:47 PM |
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What is the manufacturer/model of the humidifier? |
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fred farnsworth
 New Member
 Posts:7
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| 06 Apr 2010 07:58 PM |
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Its a generalaire 1042 LH OR DM.
THanks
Fred
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joe.ami
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4377

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| 07 Apr 2010 12:22 AM |
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Don't bother. Geo operating temps are too low to get much out of a 1042. Most water will go down the drain. We suggest steam humidifiers (ie Honeywell Truesteam). BTW, if you just had geo installed, wait a bit, you may find you don't need a humidifier. good luck, Joe |
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Joe Hardin www.amicontracting.com We Dig Comfort! www.doityourselfgeothermal.com Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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geome
 Advanced Member
 Posts:987
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| 07 Apr 2010 07:40 AM |
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Our installer stopped installing the Trusteam due to problems (I believe he cited float and other problems.) We would like a humidifier to just take the edge off our dry air in the winter. The Aprilaire Model 400 was suggested for us, but rated specs are said to be reduced due to the lower operating temps of heat pumps. It may still suit our needs though. I like the idea of low water consumption and low electricity usage. |
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| Homeowner with WF Envision NDV038 (packaged) & NDZ026 (split), one 3000' 4 pipe closed horizontal ground loop, Prestige thermostats, desuperheaters, 85 gal. Marathon. |
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joe.ami
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4377

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| 07 Apr 2010 09:05 AM |
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Funny, not had problems with True Steam (save the price). Every automatic humidifier has potential for water problems. Just saying evaporative types don't put much out with geo temps, and a flow through such as the 1042 will dump much water down the drain trying. Joe |
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Joe Hardin www.amicontracting.com We Dig Comfort! www.doityourselfgeothermal.com Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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geome
 Advanced Member
 Posts:987
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| 07 Apr 2010 09:47 AM |
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Yep. Unit price and electrical consumption is why I didn't install one last year, but I'm sure they really add to humidity. I'm not entirely sure, but I believe he said something about having problems with the electronic portion of the float switch on several units. I don't remember if he mentioned scaling as an issue as well or if I just read about it somewhere. I'll ask again when he comes out for the spring checkup later this month. Fred, what thermostat do you have (make & model). When we install a humidifier I believe we will just connect it to our Honeywell Prestige. It has multiple options for humidifier setup like:Wired, wireless, humidify only with fan, humidify forces fan, humidify independent of fan (I don't understand this one), humidify only with heat, and frost control.
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| Homeowner with WF Envision NDV038 (packaged) & NDZ026 (split), one 3000' 4 pipe closed horizontal ground loop, Prestige thermostats, desuperheaters, 85 gal. Marathon. |
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Dana1
 Senior Member
 Posts:6991
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| 07 Apr 2010 10:52 AM |
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Unless you live in 8000HDD+ climates, wintertime interior RH below 30% is an indication of higher than necessary ventilation rates, typically from unintentional air infiltration. Adding humidity to levels higher than 30% increases the likelihood of creating mold/rot conditions somewhere within the structural framing. (Usually along the exit-paths for the escaping air.) In most of the US, simply tightening up the house to reasonable natural-ventilation levels is enough to keep the RH over 30% without risking indoor air quality issues. If the house is tight enough that it stays above 50% RH all winter it's likely that some amount of active ventilation is necessary to maintain healthy air quality. The ventilation could be controlled via dehumidistat in winter. About 30% RH is the low end of the comfort & health zone, and it's safer for preventing mold conditions than running it higher. At 50%+ RH those with dust-mite allergies run into issues, and above 60% mold-allergy sufferers are hit (even in summer). Above 60% comfort suffers. At 70%& up mold will grow on the surface of untreated wood. Humidity is the enemy of both humans & wood- don't add it unless you absolutely need to, and then only to the minimum required for health & comfort. |
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geome
 Advanced Member
 Posts:987
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| 07 Apr 2010 11:01 AM |
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Thanks Dana1. I'll spend our money on tightening our envelop (to a reasonable level) instead of getting a humidifier. |
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| Homeowner with WF Envision NDV038 (packaged) & NDZ026 (split), one 3000' 4 pipe closed horizontal ground loop, Prestige thermostats, desuperheaters, 85 gal. Marathon. |
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heatoftheearth
 Basic Member
 Posts:113
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| 07 Apr 2010 11:33 AM |
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I would agree with Dana. Forget the humidifier, Spend your money on a blower door test and airsealing. |
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fred farnsworth
 New Member
 Posts:7
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| 07 Apr 2010 11:39 AM |
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Hey Joe,
Thanks for the heads up. I have had my geothermal up and running about 2 years now. I purchased a stand alone humidifier for our main floor from sears. It made a huge difference. It it so dry here that my wifes wooden cutting boards would warp. When we fired up the stand alone humidifier they flattened out in a couple of days.
As for the 1042, I bought it 2 years ago without doing my research into it. I had talked to the local plumbing wholesaler and asked for a flow through type humidifier. I figured it wouldn't of mattered on the geothermal unit.
I did install it, now I was looking as to how to wire it to the tranquility 27. Since I have it mounted allready, can I still try it out and see? Or am I wasting my time?
Cheers
fred
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