hi first post, great site!  i built a icf house in 2008 and put a geocomfort system in, i dont know if it is working the way it should? i dont even use the infloor it cant keep up. TIA
4 ton single
pond loop 2000' of pipe at 200' from house, pond is 18' deep, 2/3 acre
water to water W/desuper
infloor basement, & shower
air handler in garage  set at  50 only runs at night
2800 sqft first floor, 2200 basement, 800 garage


 im wondering how these temps seem to you guys
loop in 32 F
 out 26
last winter it was at 34 in and 22 out, pond was only 7 ft deep then, now filled all the way up to 18' and loop is colder  ?

storage tank set at 115
w/infloor its go's down to 80-84 and dont ever shut off, tried for 54 hours to warm basement up to 72, didnt happen, cant catch up
forced air down to 94-98, it takes 45min to warm the house up 1 degree

another thing to add and seems odd to me is when they filled the loop up it still floated they had to tie bricks to it
and now they had to put a check valve in because when the forced air is on it would send the return water through the return lines on my infloor?
i dont know what is right or wrong, not many people to ask around here, besides the installers    thanks again

I'm not a pro but can tell you that the first question will be what load did the Manual J calculation come up with?

Have you checked to see if your pond loops are floating? Can you tell what your pond water temps are?

What was your basement temp at the beginning and end of your 54 hour trial? Did you try again after the check valve was installed? I think I'd give up on heating the garage and see how it performs without that load.

i found one sheet where they calct 57192 btu/hr but i know they recalculated it when i did icfs and closed cell foam, i cant find that sheet. my unit is a 44700 btu unit. hmm
the pond is frozen over with a foot or more of ice cant tell temps now but maybe this weekend drill a hole
could there be air in the loops yet or would they float even with no air?
not tryed infloor yet maybe this weekend (cheaper electric)
btw storage tank is only 50 gallon tank is that seem big enough to run all the heating needs? thanks again

Unit BTU output is based on EWT from the loop. If you want to know if the unit is performing to factory specifications do a HE. HE or heat of extraction calculation is explained on a recent post here.

Storage tank size has nothing to do with unit's ability to meet the load. Larger storage tank reduces short cycling, but that isn't a problem for you.

32 EWT is OK, and 26LWT implies good loop flow. Could unit be stuck in low stage? (I don't even know if unit is a 2 stage)

94-98 is a good forced air temp.

Based on limited info I'd say unit is undersized, which may be by design so it isn't too oversized for cooling, and to keep installed cost down. Some use of aux sources of heat is typical in northern climates when temps drop to near, at or below design temps.