ideburger
 New Member
 Posts:4
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| 15 Feb 2010 07:08 PM |
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This is my first post, but I have been following this forum for several months now trying to learn everything I can about geothermal. I am building a new house in Indiana and the time has come to finally start getting serious about the HVAC.
I think I am going to require a 3 ton unit. According to my calculations, heat loss is 28300 btu and gain is 34400 btu. The house is 884 sft first floor on a full finished basement, and has a 609 sft finished 2nd floor with a gambrel roof.
As with so many posters on this site, several contractors I have met with use a rule of thumb to size the equipment. Unlike many that I have read about, they all seem to agree that I need a 3 ton unit. Some have said that I could go with a 3.5 ton or even a 4 ton and still be OK, but 3 ton seems to be the consensus.
My first is concerning horizontal loops. I was under the impression that a 3 ton unit would require three separate loops spaced a minimum of 10 ft apart at a lenght of somewhere around 300 ft (600 ft of pipe). One of the more experienced contractors I have talked to claims that a single trench 600 ft long with 3 pipes in the trench will suffice. The trench would leave the house head out about 300 ft and arc back to the house in a teardrop shape. The lines would header inside the basement. The trench would be 6 ft deep and 2 ft wide. There would be two runs on the bottom at opposing sides of the trench (2 ft of separation). He would then backfill 2 ft and run the third loop at this level (4 ft below grade).
My concern is that there is not enough separation between the loops, and my EWT may become to low in the winter or too high in the summer.
The system he is proposing is a climatemaster and I have played around some with their GeoDesigner software. It seems that what he is proposing is similar to several of the configurations on this software, althought they do not have the 3 pipe trench (only 2, 4, and 6).
Is this common practice? Have I explained this well enough for anyone to understand? Thanks in advance for any insight.
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TechGromit
 Advanced Member
 Posts:634
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| 15 Feb 2010 08:22 PM |
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Posted By ideburger on 15 Feb 2010 07:08 PM
I think I am going to require a 3 ton unit. According to my calculations, heat loss is 28300 btu and gain is 34400 btu. The house is 884 sft first floor on a full finished basement, and has a 609 sft finished 2nd floor with a gambrel roof.
I think you need to recheck you figures, you heat gain is greater than your heat loss, which is possible for places Naples, Florida and hotter, but very unlikely for Indiana. You figures indicate you only require cooling, not heating, perhaps you built your house on an active volcano.  |
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docjenser
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1400
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| 15 Feb 2010 08:30 PM |
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This might work since he keeps the pipes at least 2 feet apart, and you got 1800ft of pipe for 3 tons. However, by the I backfill the whole 600ft trench with 2 ft of soil I have the 3rd trench dug, put the pipe in and got home working on my second beer. I would actually dig 3 trenches at 100 ft, put 3 slinkies in and be done by lunch. The bottom line is that everyone has certain equipment and a certain crew which does certain tasks very efficient. If he has a backhoe with a 2 ft shovel and does it all himselve, this might be the most efficient way for him to do it.
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| www.buffalogeothermalheating.com |
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ideburger
 New Member
 Posts:4
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| 15 Feb 2010 10:03 PM |
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I think you need to recheck you figures, you heat gain is greater than your heat loss, which is possible for places Naples, Florida and hotter, but very unlikely for Indiana. You figures indicate you only require cooling, not heating, perhaps you built your house on an active volcano You may be right. I got these figures doing some long hand calculations for thermal loss and then some assumptions to account for infiltration and heat gain due to electric appliances. I feel very comfortable with the conductive loss/gain calculations, but the assumptions are just that, so who knows how close I am. I only have about 30 ft between a sewer line and electric line to fit my loops in. The legth dimension is pretty well unlimited. Would a width of 30 ft be a little tight for slinkys? Thanks for the replies. |
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 16 Feb 2010 03:10 AM |
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Get or do a proper load calculation (compliant with Manual J) You can 'rent' HVAC-CALC for 60 days for $50 |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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ideburger
 New Member
 Posts:4
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| 16 Feb 2010 01:53 PM |
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I found a major mistake in my calculations. I now come up with something more reasonable I think. Heat loss is still 28300, but heat gain is more like 25400. Does this sound more reasonable? |
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 16 Feb 2010 05:46 PM |
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Maybe - really hard to say via internet |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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TechGromit
 Advanced Member
 Posts:634
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| 16 Feb 2010 07:47 PM |
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Posted By ideburger on 16 Feb 2010 01:53 PM
I found a major mistake in my calculations. I now come up with something more reasonable I think. Heat loss is still 28300, but heat gain is more like 25400. Does this sound more reasonable?
Still sounds way off to me, lets flip the number around for a minute and say that Heat gain is 28300 and Heat loss is 25400 in the summer, that would make the difference 2900 btu, so your tell me you can cool your 1500 sq ft house with a 3000 btu window air conditioner? I don't even think them make 3000 btu A/C's, smallest they make is 5,000 btu. Here's an example of how to calculate heat/loss for a 1300 sq ft house. http://www.diydata.com/planning/ch_design/example1_imperial.php They come up with around 25k heat loss per hour. So no, it doesn't sound reasonable to me. I might buy 10 or 15k, but not 3k. |
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ideburger
 New Member
 Posts:4
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| 16 Feb 2010 07:57 PM |
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Here's an example of how to calculate heat/loss for a 1300 sq ft house. http://www.diydata.com/planning/ch_design/example1_imperial.php They come up with around 25k heat loss per hour. I have looked at this example beore but have never studied it in depth. I will when I get a chance, but I think I did everything pretty much as it showed in the example. One difference I saw right away is that I assume 0.5 air changes per hour rather than 1.0. I think I am going to take the advice that engineer gave and purchase the 60 day version of HVAC-CALC. It looks pretty useful, and might catch some obvious errors for me. I also saw where the software gives a ductwork report for cfm required per room. Has anyone ever messed wtih that part of HVAC-CALC? |
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 16 Feb 2010 09:20 PM |
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Posted By TechGromit on 16 Feb 2010 07:47 PM
Posted By ideburger on 16 Feb 2010 01:53 PM
I found a major mistake in my calculations. I now come up with something more reasonable I think. Heat loss is still 28300, but heat gain is more like 25400. Does this sound more reasonable?
Still sounds way off to me, lets flip the number around for a minute and say that Heat gain is 28300 and Heat loss is 25400 in the summer, that would make the difference 2900 btu, so your tell me you can cool your 1500 sq ft house with a 3000 btu window air conditioner? I don't even think them make 3000 btu A/C's, smallest they make is 5,000 btu.
Here's an example of how to calculate heat/loss for a 1300 sq ft house.
http://www.diydata.com/planning/ch_design/example1_imperial.php
They come up with around 25k heat loss per hour.
So no, it doesn't sound reasonable to me. I might buy 10 or 15k, but not 3k.
TG - I think you misunderstand the gain and loss figures posted further above. The gain is in summer, the loss is in winter. A full 25.4k btuh cooling is called for in summer, and 28.3k heating in winter. The small difference between the two, if grounded in a competent load calculation, actually simplifies system selection. Assuming reasonable loop conditions, a 2 speed 026 unit with 5 kw of strips, properly ducted, with 2 zones would be an excellent system for this home. I'm slightly skeptical of the relatively small difference between heating and cooling loads given the upper midwest location, but I'm on the internet, not on the ground at the house under consideration, so I don't know about unusual factors or details that produce this result. |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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TechGromit
 Advanced Member
 Posts:634
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| 16 Feb 2010 11:50 PM |
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My mistake, I thought these were raw numbers for heating load for the winter. Figuring out how much heat loss minus heat gain is part of the calculation isn't it, where you figure out heat gain from solar gain from windows, number of people in the house, etc. The numbers make more sense now, but I still think the original numbers were off, it shouldn't be warmer in the summer than colder in the winter for Illinois.
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 17 Feb 2010 08:05 AM |
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That depends highly on local details, but I would expect heat loss to more substantially exceed heat gain in Illinois |
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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Masoud
 Basic Member
 Posts:180
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| 17 Feb 2010 09:16 PM |
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Gentlemen, I think you misunderstand OP's location. In the very top line, ID wrote: "I am building a new house in Indiana..." Not in Illinois. OK, you are close. Regards, Masoud
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engineer
 Veteran Member
 Posts:2749
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| 18 Feb 2010 11:47 AM |
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My bad! But the flat, flyover vowel states are all about the same anyway, aren't they? Illiowadiana? (just kidding - couldn't resist! - time to logout and retreat to geoexchange.org...)
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Curt Kinder <br><br>
The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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