Two WF Units Using One Water Loop - One in Heat & the Other in Cool Mode
Last Post 19 May 2012 01:42 PM by a0128958. 11 Replies.
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Bill NeukranzUser is Offline
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17 May 2012 02:45 AM
Recently there's been a thread titled 'WF Envision Blowing Warm/Hot Air on Cool Setting,' where an Envision unit had attached to it zoning control to manage 2 air zones.  Indeed the control is designed with logic such that it can 'time slice' back and forth between Heat and Cool modes.

The thread got me to thinking about my setup, where I have 2 WF Envision units (3 and 5 ton), each connected to a common closed water loop (about 5000' of HDPE pipe).  What I wondered about is what would happen if one of my Envision units was in heat mode, and the other in cool mode, and both simultaneously operating?

I realize this is not a common situation, but, there are no controls to actually prevent the scenario from occuring.  And I can see at least one set of conditions where it could occur (heat going to bedrooms for kids at night while cooling going to large family entertaining area where a lot of people are grouped, with perhaps a mild temperature outside).

I wonder how the units would perform?  One would be putting out colder water than the incoming water (heat mode), while the other would be putting out warmer water than the incoming?

I wonder if I need to set my tstats specifically on Heat or Cool, and not Automatic, to manually prevent the situation from occuring.  Or maybe it's not a big deal?

Thoughts?

Many thanks!

Best regards,

Bill

(A diagram of my units, relative to the water loop, is here:
http://www.welserver.com/WEL0043/
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17 May 2012 08:58 AM
Hi Bill.  We have a common loop for our two units, and two independent thermostats (they are not part of a zone control system.)  We have one shared flow center.  During shoulder months, we set both thermostats to "automatic mode", so having one unit run in cooling mode, and the other in heating mode has occurred, but infrequently.

I asked several installers (at the quoting stage) regarding one unit cooling and the other unit heating.  I was told they checked with the WF rep, and they were told that there was no problem with this scenario.

As you mentioned, one unit would have a warmer LWT, and one unit would have a cooler LWT.  I assume there would not be much, if any, efficiency penalty (Looby?) since the LWT's would to a certain extent offset each other and keep EWT from varying as much as with one or both units running in the same mode.

Of course, both geothermal units would be producing heat as part of normal operation.  Also, we have one geothermal unit for each floor.  The upstairs thermostat sensor is in a bedroom behind a closed door (we keep all doors closed upstairs), so there shouldn't be too much "fighting" between the units.  This would be more of a problem if the upstairs thermostat sensor was reading from the upstairs hallway.

There may be people who say that it is flat out inefficient to run one unit in cooling mode and the other in heating mode.  But they won't be as comfortable as us. 
Homeowner with WF Envision NDV038 (packaged) & NDZ026 (split), one 3000' 4 pipe closed horizontal ground loop, Prestige thermostats, desuperheaters, 85 gal. Marathon.
Palace GeothermalUser is Offline
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17 May 2012 09:49 AM
Hey Bill,

there is no problem with one unit heating and the other cooling on the same loop.
Dewayne Dean

<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system
engineerUser is Offline
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17 May 2012 09:53 PM
No problem - the units are simply trading heat energy between themselves via the loop, and the ground supplies or absorbs the difference. I'm told this is routine in large buildings that always need interior cooling but sometimes need perimeter heating.
Curt Kinder <br><br>

The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
robinncUser is Offline
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17 May 2012 10:18 PM
Bill, just curious.....do you have a newer house or a very old house? EIGHT tons is ALOT for a 3400sf house!
Bill NeukranzUser is Offline
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18 May 2012 10:25 AM
Posted By engineer on 17 May 2012 09:53 PM
... the ground supplies or absorbs the difference.
 
... this is routine in large buildings that always need interior cooling but sometimes need perimeter heating.

Ahh, this makes sense: "the ground (earth) supplies or absorbs the difference."  I hadn't thought about the fact that the dissimilar LWTs from the 2 units mix in the common closed water loop, and then the ground simply extracts or supplies the heat needed for the sum of the positve water deltaT and the negative deltaT.

Yes, a lot of public schools in my (Dallas) area have in the past few years converted from conventional heating/cooling to geothermal.  One big borehole field, out in the parking lots and recreation fields, servings many geo units inside the building, each with a tstat.  Indeed, almost all of the time, during regular school hours, their HVAC systems are running in cool mode, due to the heat load presented by so many occupants.  But, in winter time, there are occasional situations where a few tstats are calling for heat for certain areas while simultaneously many tstats are calling for cooling.

Thanks to all for the helpful comments!

Best regards,

Bill
Energy reduction & monitoring</br>
American Energy Efficiencies, Inc - Dallas, TX <A
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(www.americaneei.com)</A></br>
Example monitoring system: <A href="http://www.welserver.com/WEL0043"> www.welserver.com/WEL0043</A>
Bill NeukranzUser is Offline
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18 May 2012 06:28 PM
Posted By robinnc on 17 May 2012 10:18 PM
Bill, just curious.....do you have a newer house or a very old house? EIGHT tons is ALOT for a 3400sf house!

Answer: About in the middle.

My home (see picture inset, 2nd screen, right side) was built in 1992.  Single story, 3400 sf, brick veneer, big attic with a few wind turbine ventilators along with soffit vents, average attic insulation, average windows and doors with respect to air infiltration, a lot of window (glazing) s.f. area, and a non-edge-insulated on-grade concrete slab.

I also have about 60 recessed light fixtures that are not IC (i.e. they're vented to the attic), a gas-fired hot water heater in the midst of conditioned air space, a fire place, 4 bathroom exhaust fans to the attic, and a stove top exhaust fan to direct outdoors.

Measured at my home (Dallas area), my annual HDD is 2294 and CDD is 3638.  I don't know what typical outdoor air design temps are for my area, but the record low is +1°F and high is 112°.

In '07 I hired an HVAC contractor to remove everything (5-ton 2-stage Lennox A/C and conventional 120 KBTU/hr gas-fired furnace / air-handler zoned into 5 air distribution zones, along with all ductwork), and start over.  The only requirements were: (1) geothermal technology, (2) no air distribution registers placed anywhere except in ceilings (to minimize air leakage), and (3) each of 3 large bedrooms have a separate tstat.  The contractor was given the freedom to optimally determine equipment, and all register sizes/locations even if it called for register addition/removal/relocation.  The contractor was given the freedom to optimally design the ductwork for appropriate air distribution.  Steel pipe except for last 6 feet being flexduct was asked for.

What I got, equipment wise, was 2 WF Envision 2-stage variable speed geo units, 5 ton (family area) and 3 ton (bedrooms), connected to a single approximately 5000' closed 1" water loop of vertical well holes, operating at a 60 psi static pressure.  The contractor said this design was what was required for best efficiency because the units would always stay in first stage (indeed they never run in 2nd stage no matter how hot it might be here).  The contractor further said 2 units were needed to make it possible to have zone control for the bedrooms.  It was also felt that this arrangement provided for insurance on mechanical breakdown.  I.e., if one unit broke, we'd still have the other half of the house being cooled, and thus not requiring emergency repair services.

No Manual J for structure heat/cooling load was shared with me, nor a Manual D for equipment sizing, nor a Manual S for duct design/sizing.  I questioned 8 tons total, but was told this was what the Manual J analysis called for.  So, I ended up with 425 (2 stage) - 516 (1st stage only) sf/ton of cooling.

All equipment and ductwork is up in the hot attic.  Ductwork is insulated to R-8.

Tstats are programmable - daytime: 77° living / 81° bedrooms; night time: 81° living / 74–76° bedrooms.

I have an instrumentation system ( http://www.welserver.com/ ) that a few years of adjusting now tell me everything I'd want to know about structure and system performances.

Past measured EER is 21 (translating to 24 SEER) and COP is 5.0 (meets WF's advertised specs).

Typical system cooling capacity is about 81 KBTU/hr (53 for 5 ton unit + 28 for 3 ton unit).  See chart here.  This can go higher if 2nd stage is used (never is needed).

The structure typically requires about 750 KBTU/day (221 BTU/day/sf) of heat rejection for the hottest Summer days; the structure requires about 250 KBTU/day (74 BTU/day/sf) of heat for the coldest Winter days.  See chart here.

The tstats are set to minimize cycling.  Inside humidity stays between 39 - 49% RH on a rolling 30 day average.  See chart here.

The avg monthly operating energy usage, for the past 12 months, is 629 kWh/mo.  My avg rate for the same period is 9.1 ¢/kWh.  (See 'Electric Rate' chart here.) Thus, the avg monthly operating cost is $57 for the past 12 months (see 'Heating and Cooling Cost' chart here).  This includes last Summer's record breaking heat wave.
 
Geothermal is indeed the real deal for larger and/or average air tightness / average insualted homes.

Finally, to normalize my structure to those in other climate zones and with a different sf amount, my structure's energy efficiency performance is 24 KBTU/CDD (7.0 BTU/CDD/sf) when in cooling mode, and is 8.3 KBTU/HDD (2.4 BTU/HDD/sf) when in heating mode. (See 'Structure Energy Efficiency' chart here.)

Best regards,

Bill

Energy reduction & monitoring</br>
American Energy Efficiencies, Inc - Dallas, TX <A
href="http://www.americaneei.com">
(www.americaneei.com)</A></br>
Example monitoring system: <A href="http://www.welserver.com/WEL0043"> www.welserver.com/WEL0043</A>
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18 May 2012 10:13 PM
You might be an unwitting victim of the myth that natural attic ventilation is good, therefore augmented (mechanical or wind turbine) ventilation must be better.

In fact, steps to increase attic ventilation work to decrease air pressure in the attic volume. It may seem desireable in that more ventialtion air is drawn through the attic, but in fact ceiling penetrations may cause the attic to draw excessive conditioned air from rooms below. That air is then replaced by outside air infiltrating through exterior wall penetrations, windows and doors. The net effect is to increase, rather than decrease, cooling load on the conditioned space.

If you haven't yet done so, work to seal air leaks in ceiling.
Curt Kinder <br><br>

The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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18 May 2012 10:46 PM
Posted By engineer on 18 May 2012 10:13 PM
You might be an unwitting victim of the myth that natural attic ventilation is good, therefore augmented (mechanical or wind turbine) ventilation must be better....
It's hard to argue with an average electric bill of $57/month though.

Bill NeukranzUser is Offline
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19 May 2012 01:16 AM
Posted By engineer on 18 May 2012 10:13 PM
... If you haven't yet done so, work to seal air leaks in ceiling.

Curt, thanks.  I agree.  In fact, earlier this year my city offered a $1500 'energy and weatherization' grant, using economy stimulus money.  I signed up.

Just recently, the work was concluded, included sealing the door for the in-conditioned-space gas-fired HWH, putting in a sealed insulated ceiling attic hatch contraption, adding external door sealing, and putting boxes around a number of the recessed light fixtures (perhaps about 20%).  Before and after blower door tests were done to confirm air infiltration improvement.

More insulation was also added to the attic, to brink the depth of blown in insulation to R-38 level.  Since the existing, 20 year old insulation is now pretty well compacted, and was not removed, in fact I don't really have in total R-38 performing insulation.  But, it hopefully is an improvement.

Proof that the money was well spent (donated), and is making a difference, should show up in the
Structure Energy Efficiency Performance chart.  My structure currently requires 24 KBTU/CDD (or 7.0 BTU/CDD/SF) in cooling mode.  We'll see if it comes down a little over the next few months.

Best regards,

Bill
Energy reduction & monitoring</br>
American Energy Efficiencies, Inc - Dallas, TX <A
href="http://www.americaneei.com">
(www.americaneei.com)</A></br>
Example monitoring system: <A href="http://www.welserver.com/WEL0043"> www.welserver.com/WEL0043</A>
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19 May 2012 01:58 AM
Posted By arkie6 on 18 May 2012 10:46 PM

It's hard to argue with an average electric bill of $57/month though.


Agreed.  Instead of first making capital improvement to the strucutre via new windows, new doors, foam insulation in the attic, radiant barrier in the attic, etc., we ripped out the conventional HVAC system and started over with geothermal.  For a larger, marginally energy efficient structure like mine, geothermal is clearly the 'real deal.'  The investment break even point is about 8 years - we're about 5 years complete.

Noting a rolling average $57/mo cost for heating and cooling now, we have to be careful what else we invest into.  I.e. replacing windows and doors now won't produce a marginal enough improvement to be anywhere close to reasonable for the investment.  Same for radiant barrier in the attic.

I don't know if my structure's need for 7.0 BTU/CDD/sf in cooling mode is any good (or a need for 2.4 BTU/HDD/sf in heat mode).  But at least using geothermal equipment that runs at 21 EER and 5.0 COP, and having an electric rate at about 9 cents, we can produce the 24 KBTU/CDD pretty efficiently now (or 8.3 KBTU/HDD in the winter time), noting it's a 3400 sf structure.

It's really obvious that on a larger scale, geothermal heating/cooling is incredibly cost effective compared to other alternatives.

Best regards,

Bill
Energy reduction & monitoring</br>
American Energy Efficiencies, Inc - Dallas, TX <A
href="http://www.americaneei.com">
(www.americaneei.com)</A></br>
Example monitoring system: <A href="http://www.welserver.com/WEL0043"> www.welserver.com/WEL0043</A>
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19 May 2012 01:42 PM
Posted By engineer on 18 May 2012 10:13 PM
You might be an unwitting victim of the myth that natural attic ventilation is good, therefore augmented (mechanical or wind turbine) ventilation must be better.

In fact, steps to increase attic ventilation work to decrease air pressure in the attic volume. It may seem desireable in that more ventialtion air is drawn through the attic, but in fact ceiling penetrations may cause the attic to draw excessive conditioned air from rooms below. That air is then replaced by outside air infiltrating through exterior wall penetrations, windows and doors. The net effect is to increase, rather than decrease, cooling load on the conditioned space.

...


Also in fact, when the smoke tool is used, and is placed up at the recessed light fixtures, you can see the roof wind turbines sucking conditioned air up into the attic.  The decision to use much less expensive non-sealed, non-IC recessed light fixtures was a terrible decision made 20 years ago when we built the home.

Best regards,

Bill
Energy reduction & monitoring</br>
American Energy Efficiencies, Inc - Dallas, TX <A
href="http://www.americaneei.com">
(www.americaneei.com)</A></br>
Example monitoring system: <A href="http://www.welserver.com/WEL0043"> www.welserver.com/WEL0043</A>
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