Hello I've been scouring the next for answers and i'm hoping someone smarter than me can help me with my new tranquility 27 install.  I decided to do the DIY approach and may have gotten in over my head.

My problem is that when I turn on the unit the unit will run for about 5 minutes.  Within that 5 minutes the compressor will kick on and run for about 2-3 minutes and then lockout.  The diagnostic light on the CFM board does a fast flash, which according to the manual is a lockout.  However, i can't seem to figure out any indication as to why it's locking out.  I will try to give as much detail as I can about the system, but again I'm not an expert.  Just an in-over-his-head DIY'er:

Tranquility 27 TT049 4 Ton Two Stage
QT Flow Center (2 pump)
3000ft of Horizontal Slinky Loops


I measured the EWT at 44.1 degress.  I'm assuming LWT is almost the same (haven't had a chance to check that yet) because the unit is providing no heat.

One thing I'm concerned about is we are building in the middle of winter and have had no heat for quite some time.  The unit is located in the basement that is probablay 38-40 degrees.  Would this cause the compressor to lockout after 2-3 minutes?

Any help on where I could start to try to get this thing going would be much appreciated.  I have contacted the place that I purchased the unit from and they are providing some support via e-mail but I figured this might be a good route to go also.

Is 38-40 degrees the house temp? Return air temps below about 55 degrees are not recommended.

Bergy

Yes it's a new construction and are just now getting to the point where we can try to get the Geo going.  Unfortunately we've had a cold few weeks in the middle of winter and the temps' in the basement are 35-40.  I know it's not recommended.  I guess I'm trying to figure out if this could cause the compressor lockout.  Or if there is another issue.

Whats your location?

Elizabeth, WV. Just outside of Parkersburg, WV.

Is it possible that this thing has leaked all the R410 from the compressor? I heated our basement tonight with three turbo heaters, a thermostat in the basement read 50 degrees and then shorted the test pins and the compressor kicked on and ran for 3 minutes and then the CXM led started doing a slow flash. It repeated this for 3 times and then locked out.

I'm starting to suspect there is a bigger issue here because I had to have the squirrel cage replaced when first receiving the unit because some of the fins were bent. So that's why i'm wondering if this thing was damaged somewhere along the line and could have leaked all the R410.

It would take a competent, reasonably well-equipped technician on site to determine what is going on here.

Yeah I'm going to start making calls to where I purchased the unit and also to the manufacturer. I'm assuming the manufacturers warranty would cover something like this? I was just hoping someone might have a suggestion to point me in the right track so I could be more informed about what the actual problem is. Like I said at this point I really don't' have anything to go on, and i'm also in a huge hurry to get heat to the house.

I was hoping the test mode would point to a specific fault but it doesn't.

Manufacturer warranty and DIY may not mix well.

Warranty repair work will likely have to be through a licensed, trained insured contractor.

There are test pins that you can short on the board to get an indication of the specific lock-out. They are next to the JW3 jumper which should have been cut for closed loop.
I suspect you will find a low pressure lock-out....likely do to low return air temperature. Get the heat up to 60 or so with aux. and try again.

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I hate to say this in public but it turned out it was a pressure issue because I had not been running the unit with the upper door on. Just not something I was thinking about. I also was doing the test procedures wrong as well. Anyway...lesson learned. Thanks to everyone for their replies.

Now my next problem is getting the thermostat to work with the unit. Has anyone ever wired a Pro1 IAQ to the tranquility? I seem to be having issues. I've read through most of the documentation and I'm not sure where i'm messing up.

The unit gets power but when I try to put the TSTAT into heating mode nothing happens. There is an amber light on "B" on the front of the unit. Which I'm assuming is my problem. But the tranquility 27 doesn't have a terminal marked B. And the TSTAT directions say B is for the reversing valve energized in heating. Anyway if anyone could point me in the right direction I appreciate it.

You want the reversing valve energized in cooling. It is usually the O terminal

Yeah I guess that's where I'm stuck. It seems like the thermostat is calling for that in heating mode.

If your Tranquility 27 has the DXM board, then the following may be of help to you. On the board, by the bottom edge, are two 8-switch DIP switch packages, S1 and S2. On S1:

"DIP 1.3 : Thermostat Type (heat/cool) - provides selection of Thermostat Type. Heat Pump or Heat/Cool thermostats can be selected. When in Heat/Cool mode, Y1 is input call for Cooling Stage 1, Y2 is input call for Cooling Stage 2, W1 is input for Heating Stage 1, and O/W2 is input call for Heating Stage 2. In Heat Pump mode, Y1 is input call for Compressor Stage 1, Y2 is input call for Compressor Stage 2, W1 is input call for Heating Stage 3 or Emergency Heat, and O/W2 is the input call for RV (heating or cooling dependent on DIP 1.4). On=Heat Pump, Off=Heat/Cool."

"DIP 1.4: Thermostat Type (O/B) - provides selection of Thermostat Type. Heat Pump Thermostats with "O" output on with Cooling or "B" output on with Heating can be selected. On=HP Stat with O output with Cooling. Off=HP Stat with B output with Heating."

What model Pro 1 IAQ thermostat do you have? You may have to change DXM board settings according to what signals the tstat is sending for different things.

I haven't studied the CXM control board, as my unit (TTV026) has the DXM board. On looking quickly at the manual, though, it appears that the CXM board does not have the flexibility of the DXM in configuring the type of thermostat. Y1 on is for compressor, O on is for cooling mode, W on (with Y already on) calls for heating stage 2, and W on while Y is off means emergency heat. A note on thermostat compatibility says: "Most heat pump thermostats can be used with the CXM control. However, Heat/Cool stats are NOT compatible with the CXM."