Climate Master Tranquility 27 Has No Power
Last Post 03 Jul 2018 03:12 AM by arkie6. 9 Replies.
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lomax0990User is Offline
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30 Jun 2018 11:45 AM
Hello, I have a Tranquility 27 geothermal heat pump that has no power. There is no power to any of the controls or to the fan controller. The contactor has 240 volts coming from the breaker box. However, like I said their is no power to either the control board or the fan control board. My gut is telling me it's either the motherboard or the fan control/thermostat board. I'm trying to narrow down the problem so any help would be appreciated. Of course today is supposed to be the hottest day of the year so far. Thanks in advance.
arkie6User is Offline
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30 Jun 2018 03:24 PM
Do you have the Installation and Operation Manual (IOM)? If not, you can download it from the Climatemaster website here: http://www.climatemaster.com/geothermal-dealer/product-literature/obsolete-geothermal/

The CXM / DXM control board IOM can be found here: http://www.climatemaster.com/geothermal-dealer/product-literature/geothermal-accessories/

Here is what the troubleshooting section says for Main Power Problems (Green Status LED Off):

1. Check line voltage circuit breaker and disconnect.
2. Check for line voltage between L1 and L2 on the contactor.
3. Check for 24VAC between R and C on CXM/DXM
4. Check primary/secondary voltage on transformer.

It sounds like you have done 1 and 2. The next thing to check is #3 to see if you have 24 VAC on terminals R & C.

If you don't have 24 VAC on the terminals, I would suspect the 240V / 24V step down transformer or loose connection or open circuit breaker. Looking at the DXM manual, the high (240V) side of the transformer connects directly to L1 and L2 terminals on the main contactor. There is also a circuit breaker shown on the 24 VAC side of the transformer. That circuit breaker may have tripped. If the circuit breaker is tripped, it may point to a fault on the CXM / DXM board or one of the components powered by 24 VAC from the control board.
lomax0990User is Offline
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30 Jun 2018 05:52 PM
Thanks it was indeed the breaker on the side of the transformer. It quit working last night and it had power when I went down to check the status LED but the compressor was not on. So the only thing I can think is I shorted something when I took the cover off or something. It's been running for the last hour or so, but just went into a fast flash lockout mode. I just hard reset it and it's now running again. But I'm not sure why it keeps going into lockout mode. Not sure how to continue from here....
arkie6User is Offline
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30 Jun 2018 07:01 PM
Can you determine if you have the CXM or DXM control board? Have you downloaded the IOM / AOM for your control board? There is a troubleshooting table in the back that should help determine the cause for your lockout.

How many times does the LED flash before it pauses for ~10 seconds?

A lockout could be as simple as a plugged condensate drain (fairly common due to gooey slime buildup in the line).

Examples:

2 flashes > 10 second pause > 2 flashes .... = High Pressure (HP) Lockout Code 2 (i.e. reduced or no water flow in cooling)

5 flashes > 10 second pause > 5 flashes ... = Air Coil Low Temperature (LT2) Lockout Code 5 (i.e. reduced or no air flow in cooling)

6 flashes > 10 second pause > 6 flashes ... = Condensate Overflow (CO) Lockout Code 6

lomax0990User is Offline
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30 Jun 2018 07:14 PM
Sorry just started a new thread. Thought maybe that would be better.

There is no lockout code. i.e. 4 flashes and then a pause (Error code 4). IT's the constant fast flash.

I believe it's the CXM, but couldn't' find any identifying markings other than the PN.

I think you may be on to something with the condensate drain though. I will be checking on that in the meantime.

arkie6User is Offline
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30 Jun 2018 07:48 PM
How many LEDs are on the board?

One (1): Status (Green) = CXM

Three (3): Status (Green) + Test (Yellow) + Fault (Red) = DXM

From the discussion so far, I get the impression that you have a single Status (Green) LED and thus an older CXM board.

I went back through the CXM manual and you have to put it in Test Mode by momentarily shorting the two TEST terminals to determine what is causing the fast flash indicating a lockout.

Test Mode - Test Mode allows the service personnel to check the operation of the control in a timely manner. By momentarily shorting the test terminals, the CXM control enters a 20 minute Test Mode period in which all time delays are sped up 15 times. Upon entering Test Mode, the Status LED will flash a code representing the last fault. For diagnostic ease at the thermostat, the Alarm Relay will also cycle during Test Mode. The Alarm Relay will cycle on and off similar to the status LED to indicate a code representing the last fault, at the thermostat.

Fault Retry - In Fault Retry Mode, the Status LED begins slow flashing to signal that the control is trying to recover from a fault input. The CXM control will stage off the outputs and then “try again” to satisfy the thermostat "Y" input call. Once the thermostat input calls are satisfied, the control will continue on as if no fault occurred. If 3 consecutive faults occur without satisfying the thermostat "Y" input call, then the control will go into Lockout Mode. The last fault causing the lockout will be stored in memory and can be viewed by going into Test Mode.

Test Mode can be exited by shorting the test terminals for 3 seconds.
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01 Jul 2018 01:45 AM
I believe it was the condensate line. I got some standing water out of it and it's been running fine for the past few hours. Thank you for you help! It was 97 here today and I was affraid I wouldn't have A/C.
arkie6User is Offline
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01 Jul 2018 03:41 AM
Glad to be of assistance. You can pour a little distilled vinegar down the condensate line to further kill and remove any remaining slime. They also make some tablets that you can periodically drop in your condensate pan to prevent that slime formation. Nu-Calgon is one brand. There are others as well. Google [condensate pan tablet] for more info.
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03 Jul 2018 12:33 AM
Well I feel like this is a stupid problem, but I just can't figure it out. I haven't tried your suggestions above but will do that shortly.

However, it recently went back into lockout mode with an error code of 6, which as suspected is a condensate overflow. However, when I took the cover off, the condensate pan was fairly dry with just a little bit of standing water. Nothing close to being at the level of the sensor. Is it possible I just didn't catch it in time and it slowly drained out?
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03 Jul 2018 03:12 AM
Yes, it could have tripped the level sensor, shutdown (which would have stopped producing condensate), and then slowly drained out. It depends on how long from the time of the lockout until you looked in the pan. Did you do anything to clean out the drain line? Slime buildup in those lines is pretty common. If you can access the end of the drain line (either end), you can hook up a wet/dry Shop Vac and suck the gunk out of the line. The gunk tends to buildup where the line connects to the drain pan. You may be able to swab out the line with something thin and flexible like a drain snake (see link below) or even a nylon zip-tie. After swabbing, pour a cup of distilled white vinegar into the drain line and then follow that up with some clear water to verify it is free draining and to flush out the acid.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B42MGETWKBQNC92H6P08
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