rock*1
New Member
Posts:2
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| 17 Jan 2008 03:59 PM |
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We have a new Geo Thermal (new construction) however it seems very loud...is this the way the unit works...should it be so loud when the water runs through the system... |
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Palace Geothermal
Veteran Member
Posts:1609
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| 17 Jan 2008 07:38 PM |
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a correctly installed geothermal heat pump should not be noisy. I have been next to some that are so quiet you have to put your hand on them to see if the are running. Most make a soft humming noise. There are however a lot of variables. The better the heat pump, the more steps have been taken to make it quiet. If you bought a bottom of the line unit, it might be noisy. Is the noise coming from the fan, the circulating pump or the compressor? Each of these can make noise. If there is liquid refridgerant in the compressor, then it will be very noisy.
Sorry yours is noisy, if you give us more info, maybe we can help you figure it out.
good luck |
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Dewayne Dean
<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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rock*1
New Member
Posts:2
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| 18 Jan 2008 03:38 PM |
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Thanks for your input....the noise seems to be the water going into the system and then again when it leaves the system...does this help you or do you need more info... |
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Palace Geothermal
Veteran Member
Posts:1609
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| 18 Jan 2008 04:35 PM |
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Is this on an open well, or a closed loop system? |
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Dewayne Dean
<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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mj
New Member
Posts:6
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| 11 Feb 2008 01:05 PM |
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Hi,
Sorry to resurrect an old thread that I did not start - I am having what sounds like the same issue as the original poster. My system is quite loud - sounds like it is coming from the pipe taking water away from the unit.
We have had the unit for about 2 years. It was quite loud - surprising to us. We were told this was normal. Eventually the loud noise stopped - I have no idea why this is. A week or so ago, we shut the unit down to clean the spin-down filter leading into the unit (it was clogged with sediment, and had not been cleaned ever).
Upon starting the unit back up, the loud noise is back!
We have an open loop system - the water comes in through our well tank, and the water out goes out the same line as our sump.
Any ideas? The geothermal guys are going to be coming out to assist with a water heater replacement, so if there is a problem, I'd like any ideas regarding what the problem could be.
Any help appreciated. :)
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Palace Geothermal
Veteran Member
Posts:1609
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| 11 Feb 2008 01:16 PM |
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It sounds like you might have too much water flowing through the unit. For open loops most heatpumps recommend 2-3 gpm. Since your noise went away with a clogged filter, then it sounds like too many gpms. Have the geothermal guys check flow through the heat pump. There are a variety of ways to regulate the flow, they should be able to recommend one for you. |
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Dewayne Dean
<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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tuffluckdriller
Advanced Member
Posts:630
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| 11 Feb 2008 04:59 PM |
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that's 3 gpm per ton... |
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| Clark Timothy ([email protected])<br>Geothermal Heat Pumps: Heating and Cooling that's Dirt Cheap!<br>www.pinksgeothermal.com |
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Palace Geothermal
Veteran Member
Posts:1609
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| 11 Feb 2008 06:20 PM |
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Posted By tuffluckdriller on 02/11/2008 4:59 PM
that's 3 gpm per ton... Yes 2 - 3 gpm per ton. Thanks. For closed loop systems the minimum is 3 gpm per ton. On open loop systems the minimum for most heat pumps is 2 gpm per ton.
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Dewayne Dean
<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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mj
New Member
Posts:6
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| 13 Feb 2008 10:30 AM |
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Thanks for the responses. That sounds like exactly what is happening. It sounds (and feels, when I wrap my hand around the pipe) like there is an awful lot of water going through the unit.
The manual for the unit also has specifications regarding flow (1.5 - 2 gpm per ton), so that's useful information.
I was trying to find out the tons of capacity for my unit - I didn't see anything on the labelling on the unit itself or in the manual. It must be in there, I would think. Is there are specific nomenclature or term I should be looking for here? A cursory google search gave me the impression that a 3-ton system is typical for a residential install, but I'd like to know for sure what I have here.
Thanks again - this is really helpful to me.
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Palace Geothermal
Veteran Member
Posts:1609
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| 13 Feb 2008 10:34 AM |
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What brand and model number is it? |
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Dewayne Dean
<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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mj
New Member
Posts:6
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| 14 Feb 2008 09:09 AM |
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It's a Carrier unit, full model number on the outside is 50YDV049KCB301
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Palace Geothermal
Veteran Member
Posts:1609
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| 14 Feb 2008 09:23 AM |
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I went to the Carrier site and didn't find any info. It appears to be a 5 ton heat pump. If this is the case, then you need 8 - 10 GPM flowing through the heat pump when it is running. See if you can confirm that you model is a five ton by contacting Carrier. Let us know what you find out. |
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Dewayne Dean
<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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mj
New Member
Posts:6
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| 14 Feb 2008 09:38 AM |
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I think I get it now, after a little more online digging.
The Carrier GT-PX series has model numbers starting with 50YDV, and comes in four capacities, which are listed as 026, 038, 049, and 064. I presume that these more or less equate to capacity in tons, so the 50YDV049, which I have, would then be a 5-ton model.
I had seen on the key that the 049 was the "size", but I hadn't equated "size" with "capacity" at the time.
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Palace Geothermal
Veteran Member
Posts:1609
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| 14 Feb 2008 09:59 AM |
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Posted By mj on 02/14/2008 9:38 AM
I think I get it now, after a little more online digging.
I had seen on the key that the 049 was the "size", but I hadn't equated "size" with "capacity" at the time.
the 049 probably means 49,000 btuh which would be a nominal 4 ton unit.
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Dewayne Dean
<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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mj
New Member
Posts:6
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| 14 Feb 2008 10:05 AM |
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Ahh that makes much more sense.
I'll reply again once the situation is resolved.
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mj
New Member
Posts:6
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| 18 Feb 2008 03:09 PM |
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Just to wrap this up, issue resolved. Took some time to get to, since we were also coordinating the replacement of one of our water heaters (2 year old unit going bad? no good.).
The tech regulated the flow by monitoring the tempurature of the incoming water vs. the temp of the outgoing. A little surprising to me, since the manual for my unit referred mostly to measuring the pressure drop across the heat exchanger. But, the manual also had a table for the correct temp drop while heating - it was way out of range before, and is in range and whisper quiet now.
So, all is well - thanks much for the help. :)
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Palace Geothermal
Veteran Member
Posts:1609
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| 18 Feb 2008 04:17 PM |
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Glad to hear ! |
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Dewayne Dean
<br>www.PalaceGeothermal.com<br>Why settle for 90% when you can have 400%<br>We heat and cool with dirt!<br>visit- http://welserver.com/WEL0114/- to see my system |
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derdip
New Member
Posts:1
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| 07 Sep 2008 11:29 PM |
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This is a great thread/site.
I am a geo-thermal newbie, and just starting to get proposals to outfit my house with geothermal units. Specifically Carrier 50YDH026 and 50YDV026. I noticed someone had the same brand, different size so thought it may be appropriate on this thread.
I have 2 questions:
(1) One company just proposed an open loop system (I have an existing well and they will drill another). The well water tests clean (potable water test). Can someone help me understand the reliablity of open versus closed? Also the general cost difference?
(2) I have a spread out house needing two systems. The company quoted me 2 Geo systems (50YDH026 and 50YDV026 + accessories + 1 well) of about $38,000 USD. Parts: $22,300 | Labor $6,600 | Well/parts: $9000. Since I am new, I don't know if this is in the right ballpark. Does this sound about right?
Thank you, in advance!
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TechGromit
Advanced Member
Posts:634
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| 08 Sep 2008 11:28 AM |
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(1) One company just proposed an open loop system (I have an existing well and they will drill another). The well water tests clean (potable water test). Can someone help me understand the reliablity of open versus closed? Also the general cost difference?
(2) I have a spread out house needing two systems. The company quoted me 2 Geo systems (50YDH026 and 50YDV026 + accessories + 1 well) of about $38,000 USD. Parts: $22,300 | Labor $6,600 | Well/parts: $9000. Since I am new, I don't know if this is in the right ballpark. Does this sound about right?
Open Loop: 1. Cheapest system to install, more so if you have an existing well already. 2. Requires water that doesn't have too many impurities in it, poor well water can be the early death of a Geo-system unit. 3. Generally requires a return well, but not always. Closed Loop: 1. Generally much more expensive to install since it involved either digging huge trenches in the yard or several drill holes in the ground. 2. Since it's a closed loop, the condition or quality of the water from a well doesnt matter, No well needed. This replacing an existing system that also had 2 zones? It's a little higher than I would like, but overall, it's not a bad price for two units. |
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joe.ami
Veteran Member
Posts:4377
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| 11 Sep 2008 12:02 AM |
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Carrier 049 unit is a TTV049 Climatemaster. Water flow controls are best outside the building envelope as they are the source of flow noise. make sure they didn't alleviate the noise by letting water flow more freely.
Joe |
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Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 07 Apr 2013 11:36 AM |
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Hello Everyone:
I'm new to this site. Glad I found you. Hopefully I can find some answers here.
We had a Bosch TA061 5-ton system installed in February and it's a nightmare.
The low pulsing from the Copeland compressor is driving us nuts! The Bosch rep says the noise is "within tolerance". Their literature boasts "quiet operation". Their tech says 60+ decibel is quiet. It might be quiet compared to others, but from my reading, people consider an environment quiet around 40 dec.
My installer has put in more than 30 hours trying to attenuate the low throbbing as well as the high-pitched whine coming through the registers (not compressor related) without great success. He's replaced metal duct with flexduct; installed insulation into the supply plenum and canvas "breaks" between the plenum and the ductwork which has reduced the vibration into the ducts, but the noise travels up anyway.
What we want is what we had before. The only noise coming from the registers was the sound of air traveling through them. No throbbing, thank you.
Unfortunately, our basement ceiling is drywalled so I can't get to the ductwork to put sound insulation inside it. Maybe I need to tear out the ceiling and insulate the ducts. A big, messy job.
Our next step is to yank the compressor out of the unit and put it into the garage, which is a run of 50'. Also, add a muffler and anti-vibration hardware to the lines leaving the compressor.
Of course, Bosch says that will void the warranty on this $6,000 unit. I'm between a rock and a hard place because we already spent $3,500 in excavation costs for the geo pit, $1,000 to upgrade electrical service and a couple thousand for installing this unit. And $10,000 for the new backup propane generator we need for this new geo-thermal.
My wife's ready to just yank the thing out and torch $25,000 and go back to a regular propane furnace like we had.
Does anyone have any better ideas than to yank the compressor and void the warranty?
How can people be OK with this throbbing, pulsing base note added to their lives? It's like have a kid blasting his Bib Bass car stereo next to you at a red traffic light, except the light never changes!
How could Bosch or any other company think it's a good idea to put a compressor into a home? Are they installing 5-ton air conditioners inside houses now? No, they are not because compressors belong outside!
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arkie6
Veteran Member
Posts:1453
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| 07 Apr 2013 12:07 PM |
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Did you connect this new 5 ton geo heat pump to existing duct work designed for a propane furnace? If so, the duct work is likely undersized for the heat pump. |
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Calladrilling
New Member
Posts:41
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| 07 Apr 2013 07:58 PM |
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This may be silly but also maybe overlooked. Did the installer remove the shipping bolts?
A proper installed geothermal system should be very quiet. |
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Dan Callahan
Www.CallahanWellDrilling.com |
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joe.ami
Veteran Member
Posts:4377
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| 08 Apr 2013 08:28 AM |
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"How can people be OK with this throbbing, pulsing base note added to their lives?"
They are not okay with what you describe. They have their equipment installed by pros so they don't have this noise.
From your description your guy did not add canvass connectors until after noise complaints. Between that and the pricing you mentioned I'm guessing you hired any ole tin knocker and not a geo pro.
Please tell us what your return air duct dimensions are and what your geo is sitting on.
joe |
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Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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Bergy
Basic Member
Posts:277
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| 08 Apr 2013 08:41 AM |
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"My installer has put in more than 30 hours trying to attenuate the low
throbbing as well as the high-pitched whine coming through the registers
(not compressor related) without great success. He's replaced metal
duct with flexduct; installed insulation into the supply plenum and
canvas "breaks" between the plenum and the ductwork which has reduced
the vibration into the ducts, but the noise travels up anyway"
This paragraph is a bit disturbing. With the exception of He's replaced metal
duct with flexduct, this should have been done at install. There should be NOTHING solid between the unit and the structure. Ductwork, electrical or plumbing.
arkie6 is, more than likely, correct about the duct size. If the ducts are too small, the blower ramps up to push the air into the home and the compressor will work harder because there isn't enough air moving across the coil. PROPER design and install are needed so the unit can do it's job.
Can you post photos of the install?
Bergy
PS
You should start your own thread
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acwizard
Basic Member
Posts:265
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| 08 Apr 2013 10:07 AM |
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Noisy systems can sometimes be very hard to figure out the source. The first step is shutoff the compressor and run only the blower. As mentioned duct sizing plays a huge role in air delivery and noise related issues.If the static is too high,then any air leakage can create whistling and whining noises.Compressor generated noises are usually in a lower octave band and will generate a rumbling or pulsating type of noise.The refrigerant charge should be checked first along with shipping bolts.Then close attention should be paid too isolating unit from floor ,walls,etc so unit can not create a harmonic effect to the building structure.Post some pctures of the install. |
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 09 Apr 2013 08:05 PM |
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Hello Arkie6:
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it was existing ductwork but my HVAC guy is a
20+-year friend and did the calculations. I trust him and he spent a
lot of time measuring and calculating before we decided to go ahead.
Also, it's not like I can do anything about the ductwork at this point
without ripping out the entire basement drywalled ceiling and trying to
install bigger ductwork. I'm stuck with the system. We've decided to
relocate the compressor 50' away to the garage on the 18th (while I'm
out of town) and enclose it in a cement block housing. Hope that works.
David
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 09 Apr 2013 08:08 PM |
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Thanks for your reply, Calladrilling.
Not a silly question at all. It's the first question the Bosch rep asked my installer. Yes, we did remove the shipping bolts. When you say it should be very quiet, does that mean it can be as quiet as a propane furnace when all you hear is the gas igniting and then the fan moving the air?
David
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 09 Apr 2013 08:13 PM |
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Good points, Bergy. My guy should have used flexduct originally. So if you're right and the ducts are too small, what solutions are there? I'll get some photos and post soon. Thanks.
David
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 09 Apr 2013 08:19 PM |
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Thanks for the reponse acwizard:
You make good points. I've run the system without the compressor plugged in and the low throbbing goes away. So does the high whine in the background fan noise. I think the compressor is exacerbating/vibrating all the other parts in the unit and making them worse. We're removing the compressor and moving it to the garage (in a concrete box) on the 18th. I get back home on the 22nd so hopefully it'll all be fine then. Voiding the warranty, but what the hell. Only option left. Can't live with the harmonics. Refrigerant charge - shipping bolts - static pressure - all checked and approved by Bosch rep as being within tolerances.
Will post some photos soon, although a cement box isn't too interesting to see, and that's where the compressor is going. The compressor will also have a muffler installed & antivibration dampers on the tubing leaving the compressor. I think that covers all the bases. Wish me luck.
Thanks.
David
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 09 Apr 2013 08:54 PM |
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Hi Joe:
Thanks for the reply.
My guy is a pro. Been in the field 25+ years.
The entire unit sits on a 3" tall hard plastic base provided by Bosch. That sits on the basement concrete floor.
The return air duct is 24" x 39" x 29" as it connects to the unit. It necks down from there to the regular return.
Well, I took pictures and put them on my desktop but don't know how to shrink them down small enough to meet the 100 kb limit at this sight.
Spent the last 10 minutes trying various stuff but am quitting for now. Other things to do.
See you later.
David
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joe.ami
Veteran Member
Posts:4377
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| 10 Apr 2013 09:46 AM |
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"It necks down from there to the regular return."
OK what are the dimensions of the "regular return" that it "necks down to"?
Hint if it is a 5 ton you should have something in the neighborhood of 300 sq inches. So if the duct is lined (per manufacturer instructions that would be something in the neighborhood of 24X14.
Has your pro been in the "geo field" or hvac field, with some geo experience.
Inexplicably I have had scroll compressors run more quietly with a polarity change (installer could switch the hot wires).
I have also had a Bosch where first stage was much louder than 2nd. A compressor change might be indicated.
Are there opportunities to insulate mechanical room to better contain sound?
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Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 10 Apr 2013 01:37 PM |
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Hi Joe:
The regular return is 24 x 8. To compensate, we've cut a larger hole into the 24" x 39" x 29" box which attaches to the unit itself. My guy's been HVAC for the 25+ but obviously hasn't been installing geothermals the entire time. This isn't his first, I'm assured.
I'll mention the polarity change. Thanks for that. The second stage of the compressor might be a bit quieter, or the noise might just be masked by the louder fan noise at that stage. Bosch is going to give us a new compressor.
We're still going to put it in the garage and run 50' of lines to & from it to the rest of the unit because I've done all the soundproofing I can. Removed the drywall and installed Roxul soundproofing insulation; replaced the drywall with 440 soundboard and covered nearly all hard surfaces in the room with 2" thick CFAB cellulose panels from Acoustical Surfaces.com, which helped. It's a very crowded space.
Thanks again.
David
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docjenser
Veteran Member
Posts:1400
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| 10 Apr 2013 09:43 PM |
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Does anyone knows of a noise level the units should run at? Bosch now claims 52 db for their new units, can't find much on other manufacturers. |
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| www.buffalogeothermalheating.com |
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joe.ami
Veteran Member
Posts:4377
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| 10 Apr 2013 11:39 PM |
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Dunno Doc, but I would encourage David installer to try the new compressor in the heat pump befor the garage |
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Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 11 Apr 2013 10:34 AM |
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Hello docjenser:
The Bosch rep who inspected our geothermal says they generate mid-60db but that the company is working to reduce it to 50db. I was unaware they are claiming 52 dec for their new units. My other issue is that my wife has "fox ears" and is very sensitive to noise pollution, especially low and high frequencies. Sensitivity can be a good thing, or a curse. In this case it's the latter, so even at 50db we don't want the noise in the house.
David
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 11 Apr 2013 10:38 AM |
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Hi Joe:
Normally I'd ask my installer to go through the trouble of replacing the compressor (which Bosch said it would provide), but neither one of us has any confidence it will be dramatically quieter.
My wife's work spaces are directly next to the furnace room and her work requires quiet, so it's off to the garage with the compressor.
I'll let you know how it turns out. Hopefully a happy ending, although expensive. Work is scheduled to be done by April 24.
David
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Bergy
Basic Member
Posts:277
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| 11 Apr 2013 05:14 PM |
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I'm afraid you will curse the day you allowed the warranty to be voided.
Make sure your contractor gets factory input about oil return to the compressor. The way the line-set is fashioned could make a big difference.
Bergy
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 12 Apr 2013 12:05 PM |
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Thanks, Bergy, I'll mention the oil return for sure.
In terms of curses, I'm already there. My choice is void the warranty or rip the thing out and lose the $10,000 I've already got into it. Seems to me I take the chance and cross my fingers. My general experience with warranties is that they expire right before something breaks.
David
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sesmith
New Member
Posts:62
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| 12 Apr 2013 01:06 PM |
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That's a 10 year warranty on everything in the cabinet, you'll be voiding. If it's new and you think it's noisy what are the chances you might need to use that warranty in the future, especially once the system has been opened and the compressor replaced?
http://www.bosch-climate.us/files/201104191600460.2011.04.14_warrantygeothermal.pdf |
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docjenser
Veteran Member
Posts:1400
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| 13 Apr 2013 12:31 PM |
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Why would it void the warranty if the heatpump is relocated into the garage? |
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| www.buffalogeothermalheating.com |
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sesmith
New Member
Posts:62
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| 13 Apr 2013 01:12 PM |
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Posted By docjenser on 13 Apr 2013 12:31 PM
Why would it void the warranty if the heatpump is relocated into the garage?
I think he's planning on relocating the compressor and leaving everything else where it is, the way I read it. |
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 13 Apr 2013 01:24 PM |
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That's a good wuestion, but I'm told once you intentionally alter the Bosch "system" and their "engineering", it's voided.
It's not like I want to do this or that I'm going to inform them.
It's either move the compressor or toss the system, which would be a lot more expensive.
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 13 Apr 2013 01:27 PM |
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Thanks for your reply.
Yep, not happy about voiding the warranty. But I can't replace/enlarge my existing ductwork, and I can't live with the low throbbing pulse throughout the house. I've been unable to contain it in the furnace room despite lots & lots of sound deadening products. So, I'll just hope Bosch's other parts run well for 10 years. Like I said before, most warranties last just long enough, and after they expire, the parts die.
David
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docjenser
Veteran Member
Posts:1400
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| 13 Apr 2013 04:20 PM |
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If you are only moving the compressor there?.....You really need to rethink that. Much longer refrigerant lines come to mind. Control board might sense different pressures and temps. Very bad idea. |
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| www.buffalogeothermalheating.com |
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joe.ami
Veteran Member
Posts:4377
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| 14 Apr 2013 09:30 AM |
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Posted By docjenser on 13 Apr 2013 04:20 PM
If you are only moving the compressor there?.....You really need to rethink that. Much longer refrigerant lines come to mind. Control board might sense different pressures and temps. Very bad idea.
Yep |
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Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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acwizard
Basic Member
Posts:265
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| 14 Apr 2013 08:13 PM |
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I will second the statement Doc made about refrigerant lines. If I understand you right ,you are only thinking of moving compressor only. 50 Feet of added refrigerant lines, plus all the 90 degree elbows and other fittings make for really long refrigerant lines.The suction line must be carefully engineered for proper velocity and pressure drop to insure proper oil return to compressor. You risk a big chance in compressor failure from lack of lubrication and high superheated refrigerant not being able to cool compressor windings.The discharge line must be insulated to insure that the refrigerant gas doesn't condense prematurely. Are you sure your installer has the knowledge to do such a modification.One more thought, by adding 50 feet , you will more than likely loose some capacity in total system tonnage . You will also void the UL or CSA listing of the product and in the event of a fire or damage to your property, the likely hood of your insurance carrier honoring the claim would be nullified. |
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joe.ami
Veteran Member
Posts:4377
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| 15 Apr 2013 08:46 AM |
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Consider selling your system and buying a split system |
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Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 17 Apr 2013 04:43 PM |
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Hello Joe:
Thanks for the advice. I already spoke with Bosch. They said I'm out the $6,000 for the model I've got, but they'd give me $750 off the price of a split system. Mighty bog of them, don't you think? Anyway, we considered a split system initially, bit is doesn't fit. So we've moving ahead and creating our own split system by moving the compressor to the garage. It's not like I've got a lot to lose, and maybe it'll be just fine. Thanks again for your time and consideration.
David |
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docjenser
Veteran Member
Posts:1400
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| 17 Apr 2013 11:08 PM |
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Posted By djg61 on 17 Apr 2013 04:43 PM
Hello Joe:
Thanks for the advice. I already spoke with Bosch. They said I'm out the $6,000 for the model I've got, but they'd give me $750 off the price of a split system. Mighty bog of them, don't you think? Anyway, we considered a split system initially, bit is doesn't fit. So we've moving ahead and creating our own split system by moving the compressor to the garage. It's not like I've got a lot to lose, and maybe it'll be just fine. Thanks again for your time and consideration.
David
So a small air handler for a split system does not fit, but a packaged cabinet without a compressor fits? |
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| www.buffalogeothermalheating.com |
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joe.ami
Veteran Member
Posts:4377
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| 18 Apr 2013 07:33 AM |
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Take the $750 and whatever you can get for yours. |
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Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 18 Apr 2013 08:52 AM |
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Yes, that's correct. A split system won't fit. It's a confined space which has room for one but not the other. We measured before we moved forward initially.
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 18 Apr 2013 08:55 AM |
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Well, Joe, the way I see it is this. If I do that, I lose the $6,000 that I've already spent plus the labor, which is considerable, and then spend another $6,250 ($7,000 for a new unit less the $750 discount) for a unit that I need to put in my workshop which is on the far end of the house and the only place a split system will work. Seems to me, I've already in the soup for the first purchase, so may as well try this for about $2,000 and keep my fingers crossed. If it doesn't work, I"ll probably just put in a propane furnace like I had. What a bookowzuu (Italian for FUBAR).
Thanks for your concern and advice. Like I said, I'll let you know when we're done how it went.
David |
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joe.ami
Veteran Member
Posts:4377
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| 19 Apr 2013 08:12 AM |
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Posted By djg61 on 18 Apr 2013 08:52 AM
Yes, that's correct. A split system won't fit. It's a confined space which has room for one but not the other. We measured before we moved forward initially.
With a split they don't have to be in the same room.
I think you should get a second opinion.
If you are prepared to spend 2k already, sell your old unit and spend the 2K on propane.
I'm concerned about the professional advice you are getting. |
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Joe Hardin
www.amicontracting.com
We Dig Comfort!
www.doityourselfgeothermal.com
Dig Your Own Comfort! |
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djg61
New Member
Posts:16
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| 23 Apr 2013 10:49 AM |
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OK, guys. We're home now and the geothermal is working fine (so far) with the compressor 45' feet away in the garage. But....and it's a big but.....the 45' of copper tubing is still vibrating like a SOB, practically singing, and transferring all the vibration & throbbing from the compressor back into the house. We installed Parker Hannifin (PH) vibration "eliminators" on the copper lines and they don't seem to do much of anything.
I just got off the phone with a tech from PH and he said we should put a muffler on the discharge line leaving the compressor and that will dramatically reduce the vibration.
What do you think?
David
PS - My wife's ready to just yank the thing. I'm not ready to quit just yet. |
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TechGromit
Advanced Member
Posts:634
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| 23 Apr 2013 11:24 AM |
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Posted By djg61 on 23 Apr 2013 10:49 AM
OK, guys. We're home now and the geothermal is working fine (so far) with the compressor 45' feet away in the garage.
Why copper? My system uses PVC pipes, I used to have issues with it when it turned off, but other wise it's pretty quite. |
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ChrisJ
Basic Member
Posts:277
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| 23 Apr 2013 11:29 AM |
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"Why copper?"
They are refrigerant lines not water pipes, |
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tommytx
New Member
Posts:4
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| 14 Apr 2019 02:10 PM |
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Hey is it possible you need to remove the shipping bolts.. LOL.. I know you have said they are removed several times now.. but let tell you I learned the hard way to not believe everything someone tells you.
So far on my Bosch GEO i have had 6 different technicians tell me they removed the shipping bolts... 6 bold faced lies.. I suppose they were so embarrassed that they could not find them that they did not want to admit so they simply told the dumb assed home owner (me) they had removed them.... you should have see the face of the last tech when i asked him to show me the bolts he removed... WOW.. worth its weight in gold.
If you know how to jiggle the compressor using a single finger the compressor should easily move a tiny bit.. if it feels like its bolted to the frame it is... trust me... I have had 3 different systems installed in the last year and not one had the shippling bolts removed until I forced them to do it.. but this last one has been a doozy... not able to determine which is the shipping bolts.. I have a Bosch install video but they point it out so quickly you cannot determine if its a physical bolt as it normall is or simply to back off the compressor bolts to release... never seen a need to back off the compessor mounting bolts but it does look like what he did.. any way do a jiggle check on the compressor and that will tell you for sure if someone is lying to you..
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