I am considering building a small house instead of buying my first home. I know absolutley nothing about building a house and I would just assume start with ICF or SIP, as it seems like conventional builders are reluctant to swimming against the tide once they are set in their ways. As far as I can tell, most ICF and SIP houses use the same fundamental design elements as a conventional house (foundation, plumbing, electical, roof, etc) but they just use a different material for walls. Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can educate myself to become a "green" GC or owner/builder? The problem I am running into is that the ICF designers/manufacturers assume that you already know how to pour a slab, build a roof, frame a window, etc.

About 5 years of studying every construction book available, learning all your local codes, visiting actual job sites, helping friends with their projects and actually doing smaller projects yourself and you should be good to go.

All those flip this, that, your, my house shows gave a false impression of how easy home building and remodeling is for newbies. Notice during the boom they made everything look easy and people make tons of money. Recently they have been doing real updates of what really happened. Most of the homes had problems or never sold, or sold at much lower prices. They originally calculated profit off a real estate agents estimate which was way off.

It can be done w/ lots of planning and homework. I am building in the spring and will be on the jobsite every day all day. A good resource is ownerbuilderbook.com

For many people if you calculate the hours it takes to do a good job you are better off getting a 2nd job in your field of expertise and pay for a contractor because you don't get paid during the 100's or 1000's of hours of study and planning especially if you screw up. It's all about where is the best and most efficient use of your time.

Thanks. I have skimmed ownerbuilderbook and plan on buying a copy. I'm not trying to get rich on building a house and I'm not interested in flipping. My logic is that I can probably build a small icf home myself for less than I can buy something that is 20 years old around here. I'm still in the very early design and budgeting stages, but I'm not losing interest the deeper i get into it. Plus I have a lot of free time and a very flexible shedule.

I considered owner build but am in a similar situation as far as not having any construction experience.

Do you know how to interpret construction diagrams? That would be a good start. Figure out which ICF system you want to build with - check out Logix and Amvic. Logix has a neat video to give you the basics of how it's done.

I would leave the concrete work to the experts - you want to make sure your footings are adequate to support the weight of ICF walls, and that the slab is as close to level as possible - within 1/4" inch or less.
You could proabably assemble the ICF forms, with a little help from friends, but you may run into issues making the door and window bucks - these are the areas where mistakes lead to a breach during the pour.
Do you know what wall penetrations are required and where they belong?
What floor joist system are you using?
What type of HVAC?(Can detemine floor system)
What roof truss system are you using?
Bracing - probably the most important thing during the pour - have the right hardware and know how to use it.
Pouring - the scope for disaster here is huge! Do you understand properties of concrete, testing (slump, air content, unit weight, compressive stregth/PSI), curing?
Inspections required in your area?
Now you have your walls up al you need to do is put the roof trusses on, the roof and finish material, install flooring, and insulation, HVAC, run your electrical, AV/data/phone and plumbing, frame your interior walls, install windows, drywall, fixtures, fittings, millwork and doors, cabinets and appliances, siding, insulation, plumbing fixtures, counter tops, electrical outlets and ligting.

Sounds simple, right? :)

Thanks. Good things to think about. I have found that many of the ICF manufacturers have videos showing the assembly, and they are not all as similar as I was expecting. I've run into a hurdle on the lot that I was trying to buy, so that gives me time to research more on the design and construction. I've ordered ownerbuilderbook and some software so I'm getting excited. I share an office with an architect, so he should be able to answer my questions about the construction docs.

Hi micahalcorn,

I'm sort of in the same boat as you, but I've been doing research for about 5 years now. I want to do the same thing - build my first house rather than buy an old one. I reckon I can build one which is more energy efficient and hurricane proof than just about anything already in the local market, and do it for less. Maybe I'm too ambitious.

But you might think about concrete block - more DIY friendly than ICF. If you drystack and then fully grout and reinforce the cores then you've got a solid concrete wall (like ICF). If you insulate with rigid foam board then you're getting even closer to ICF.

You've got a big advantage sharing an office with an architect.

I would think that drystacking concrete block, placing reinforcing in the cores and grouting would essentially be more difficult than building with ICFs because the ICFs are lighter and easier to cut and handle. Otherwise they are both stack, reinforce and pump in crete or grout.

gregj, I think you're right about ease of installation. But isn't ICF is always a proprietary system licensed only to builders and so forth? I thought it required a pretty large crew with some special knowledge. I'm certainly not opposed to using ICF, but my research led to me to believe that block was more accessible for the DIYer. I'm ready to change my mind though!  :)

There's a lot to think about with both systems - starting with foundation and footings. You can't just start putting a wall up and expect to be able to create a house that is safe to live in.
You may be able to find an ICF installer to work as a consultant - where they basically train you to be an installer, hence saving some labor hours, and then they can overssee the technical parts like the pour. That way they can check the things that matter but if you are competent you could take your time to set the forms and bucks, make the penetrations and position joist hangers and bracing.
ICF may require more equipment too to correctly brace the structure for the pour.
Check out the Logix website for a good series of videos geared towards owners - nothing too technical but a good overview.

I've heard that the good ICF crews are generally only 3 or 4 people.
All capable of stacking and cutting block, shaping/cutting rebar and making and positioning door and window bucks - so basically a supervisor and a couple carpenters.

Micahal,

How small?  The March 04 Fine Homebuilding had an article on a small SIPs house in Vermont:  "Energy efficient from the ground up."  It could give you an idea of sizing and techniques.

Try reading Michael Morley's "Building with Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)."  It's from 2000, so best practices might have changed, but it will at least give you the basics of the steps involved.  Read a lot.

Does Habitat for Humanity have a chapter near you?  Volunteer, get your hands dirty, and learn.  Are you comfortable when the circular saw starts screaming and throwing dust at you; can you drive nails; can you read or listen -- and follow -- instructions; are you comfortable with heights; . . .?

Do a real-world self evaluation -- do you have the patience and will to stick with this when (not if) problems arise?  Understand that it will take 10 times as long to complete it as you originally estimated.  Accept the 80/20 rule -- you'll get 80% of the work done in 20% of the time; it will take you the remaining 80% of the time to complete the remaining 20% of the work.

Is it do-able?  Sure.  My aunt built her house.  Will it be easy?  No.  But one advantage of a SIP shell is that you would be out of the weather quickly. 

If I were considering this, I'd find a SIPs source near me and ask what plans they have that a PE has stamped so that my local authority might accept it.  I'd ask what they offer in the way of a complete, pre-fabricated, shell kit with the other components that I'd need to put it up (I would not expect to find the right glue and screws at Home Depot).  I'd look for a single story with a low sloping roof (I don't like heights and I don't like steep roofs).  And I'd plan on contracting out the slab or foundation, plumbing, electrical (but you could pull wires in advance per his instructions), and roofing.

At your present location, do you need a shed or garage?  Find a plan and build it.  If, two months into it, you drive the hammer into to wall and start searching for matches and the gasoline, you'll know that a house is probably not a good idea.  Either way, when you either finish or abandon the project you'll have the answer to your present question. 

Have fun thinking about it.  But realize that it's your decision, no one else knows what you are capable of or willing to do.

Best of luck,
Larry

Hi guys - great thread! I'm brand new to greenbuildingtalk, but the best way I know of to go about building your own house with out the hassle of delays and discomfort with the lack of construction know-how is to hire a consultant for building. There are services out there where people that are professional construction managers and build houses all the time can be hired to aid you through the entire process. They understand all the details behind design and proper management of schedules to get the entire project done within 6 months should you prefer.

It allows people to build as cost efficient a design as they want or as custom as they want without paying the General Contractor the gobs of profit that a big business needs to make. It makes you a well-equipped and well-informed GC of your own. Those consultants simply have a flat fee invoice that is no different from another contractor you'd have on your sub-list that gets figured into the loan. Some are very well versed in new building technologies like ICF foundation walls along with sips panel technology, but green building goes so far beyond your building envelope - there are many considerations regarding the internal performance of the home and which practices, techniques, and products are actually worth their dime or proven to be effective. Some things seem great on paper, but in practice turn out to be very unsuccessful when it comes to liveability.

Some of our homeowners have come back to us after insisting on a certain technology (perfect example - tankless water heaters from about 5 yrs ago) and telling us the reality was much different from the expectation, and they wish they could have chose the option for an efficient tank. SIPS panels are incredibly great for the exterior walls as they have typically an R22 - R24 on a 6 1/2" wall compared to the normal stick built wall that has high teens at best with the potential for lean areas and settling. They have twice the load bearing capacity of a typical framed 2x6 wall and so long as your electrician knows how to work with the system - most have a conduit approx. 16" off the ground where wiring can be ran. People take a look at the SIPS system for the roof as well, but for the cost, you can get the same R value (resisting heat-loss) from just blowing the insulation a bit thicker and having a ventilated attic space that matches temp with the outside air - prevents condensation on your shingles - much cheaper and same effect for my money.

Extremely exciting to think about planning a new home, consultants are the new builders if you ask me since more and more people can handle the involvement required. I really don't want to pitch services on an honest forum such as this, but I feel that anyone serious about building their own home should at least know about the possibility.

Great information Sam,
the issue many owner builders may run into is getting financing - especially in the current market - lenders are unwilling to take any risk, so generally most will only allow construction with an approved and experienced GC. I looked into a supervision or management contract but at this point they are not funding these - maybe things will change by the beginning of next year when we're closer to our project.

Which state are you building in orbit (if you don't mind sharing)? The only loans we've ever worked with when working with a client that wants to build their own are the Construction to Perm loans. If you google that you'll get a wealth of info on the guidelines. They allow the borrower to close prior to the dig based on proof of their end plans/specs and budget sheets. A little tricky process with the lender and for the borrower as well, but typically those types of projects are undervalued enough to qualify for financing? Not sure what your experience was with your lender.

I personally wouldn't touch a consultant that didn't have his building license already unless you were already familiar with their experience - even still - makes for an easier line-item on the budget sheet when applying for the loan. Problem we've always faced with the Construction to Perm loans was the amt down they needed was typically a large figure min. What they would allow for Loan to Value lower than with an average loan. As in any case of someone looking to build on their own, we can never say "subject to financing approval" enough. This has been a rough year in that regard. I am also looking to next year with some anticipation myself.

I'm in Oregon,(hence the name OR Brit).
the loan program I was looking at was Countrywide's all in one custom construction loan. They have a list of approved contractors, and an application to become an approved contractor for builders not already on their list.
Normally a supervision contract with a consultant would be permitted - just not in this current market.
We have time on our side right now - we just closed on our 10 acre lot last week and our current house is on the market. We're not in a huge hurry to build so we're going to take our time making the right design decisions first, then finding a builder or consultant to work with - I think I've narrowed it down to 2 in the area who build ICF exclusively. Everyone else is telling me it's going cost a lot more, having never built ICF before. Both the contractors I've met with say it's more like 5% more than the same home built with wood framed exterior walls.
I'm in an ideal position to be my own genera contrator - I'm a business owner and technology consulant with enough time to be able to carry out the scheduling and project management tasks required. (I generally work 20-25 hours a week). I like to think I'm well organized and an easy person to get along with. One of my greatest strengths is project management and resource scheduling so that should come in handy too.

What a perfect setup! You ought to have so much fun with that project. Sorry to get the name wrong there OR-brit - didn't look close enough. Experience with project managing should come in very handy especially if you'd be selecting subs yourself. I'd suggest you work with contractors someone in the area can vouch for so you don't get into headaches - everybody is a pro when the job is in bid stage, out in the field is a different story - your ICF contractor should have a finished home or model where they can show you a finished example of what you're looking to do?

I tend to be pro-ICF for foundations due to the clean interior finish (sheetrock) and the high R-value compared to a normal block or poured wall, but due to the 8-10" width on average I try to steer people away from them for main floor exterior walls. Have your contractors given you an approximate width for the main floor walls? Only reason I'm biased is due to the offset that is necessary in most cases for your windows - makes for a very "recessed" look once the windows are mounted. If they are going with a more narrow width for the main floor walls I wonder how the Rvalue compares? Similar pros to SIPS tho for insulation consistency with no air gaps and also for sound deadening. Plus slightly more cost effective than SIPS? Cost difference is enormous for foundations since it's compared with simple block or poured jobs - cheap materials and labor. When comparing the concrete form wall option to stick framing, your lumber cost you would have had makes it not as much of an upgrade. Were you to simply do conventional foundation and stick framing, you'd find the upgrade to ICF in the foundation only to be a big jump. Going to concrete walls for the main level exterior vs stick framing the exterior will save you some $ in lumber and insulation, but you still need a framer and lumber to frame interior walls, floors, floor & roof trusses as well as any exterior detail like column boxes, etc. That's where the costs involved get hard to anticipate depending on how far you're going to take it.

Or Brit,

If you're not familiar with it, check out the "Not so big house" series.  (Sarah Susanka; she offers for sale the plans for a knock out SIPs house on her web site.) As I recall, one of the books in that series shows a *really* small, single story house that was build as a temporary residence for the owner while the main house was under construction.  Given your lot size, that might offer you some real advantages.  You could practice on a small, quicker to complete, less expensive, low-risk house that could then do duty as a guest house when you complete your full residence.  You'd go through all of the phases, work with all of the materials, and end up learning a lot before you break ground on the expensive one.  And, given the size and cost, you might be able to fund it with a similarly small loan even in this market.

Good luck,
Larry

We're big fans of the "not so big house" books. We're planning on building about 20% smaller than our current house.(2400 feet vs 3000+)
Our lot is big enough for multiple buildings, but for our budget we want to put as much as we can into the primary structure. Part of that is deciding to do some things that cost a little more, like ICF, Geothermal heat, Low-E, low solar gain windows to mention a few.

Orbrit, I am a general contractor specializing preservation work in Bend. call my office, I will be happy to give you all the info I can for you to do your home yourself. I would suggest some alternatives to ICF's, and I don't for a minute buy the 5% overage estimate. I'll PM some contact info. This is not spam, but part of what my firm does, which is demystify some of the voodoo surrounding the construction industry.

i didnt either. i learn fast, i guess.

i built 1800 s.f. sip shop last year with a bunch of friends.

i am building 5400 s.f. residence in biloxi, ms with three (3) friends.