Larry,

The following I sent by e-mail.  I am sending this by using Word instead of WordPerfect to see if this will solve my problem of copying and pasting.

First of all, I think the In-Steel system, properly done with an experienced crew, makes a storm-resistant building.  I also think that it provides a reasonable R-value.  However, in my opinion, there are other systems available that are more storm-resistant and have a higher R-value with a lot less work involved.

In the following paragraphs I will try to give you a feel for this system as I experienced it:

This system needs to be attached securely to a concrete slab or footer.  For a connection to a slab, rebar can be set into wet concrete or holes can be drilled into the slab and the rebar set with epoxy.  Since the rebars must be set very precisely in a straight line into the slab, it is easier to drill the holes into the slab and epoxy the rebars so that the rebars will fit neatly between the wire mesh and the foam.  If the epoxy way is choosen, then drill the holes for the rebar before the concrete reaches much strength.  Drilling in concrete that has reached it full strength can be very slow depending upon the type of drill bits used.

Each panel must be set, braced, and wired together with overlapping mesh.  Setting a panel consists of placing the panel into its correct position with the rebar dowel between the inside mesh and the foam.  Bracing the foam panels should be done from the outside to avoid damaging the concrete floor.  With a level lot and turnbuckles on the braces, this step is easily accomplished.  Without turnbuckles or with long braces because of tall walls, the work load is greatly increased since the panels resist movement.  Tying the overlapping wire mesh is a fairly simple process but very time consuming since it requires so many ties.  Scaffolding will be required if the walls are taller than 8'.  Using the roll-around type of scaffolding works well on the concrete slab.

Vertical and horizontal rebar, according to your local requirements and this system, must be inserted between the wire mesh and foam and then tied into place.  A torch is used to melt the foam enough so that shotcrete can be placed around the rebar.  (Loss of R-value.)  Doors and windows require more rebar.  Short diagonal rebars are also required at the corners of openings to control diagonal cracking.  For best results around openings in the wall, use rebar on both sides of the wall.

All of the above can be done with an inexperienced crew and one experienced leader provided the plans are detailed properly.  Of course, using the recommended tools will speed up the work.  Only in third-world countries with plenty of cheap labor should this system be used without powered tools.

With the panels set, tied together, braced and aligned, and rebar in place, the shotcrete is applied.  Applying shotcrete requires an experienced crew with specialized equipment.  Troweling the shotcrete should be done by experienced people.  Do not let the shotcreter get too far ahead of the trowelers since the shotcrete will set quickly in hot dry weather.  Since shotcreting is very messy for the area and the shotcreter, avoid hot weather for this stage.  Removing the rebounded shotcrete is time consuming and back breaking.  That stuff is heavy and will set up too quickly to be used again.  More than likely, for a nice finish, the shotcreted walls will have to be covered up with some other finish.

We used stucco with a sand finish to cover the shotcreted walls inside and out.  We had no trouble blending stucco and sheetrock at the intersecting corners inside the home.  I still see the homeowner occasionally and he still likes this system.  However, he does think that his energy bills should be more reasonable since he did also use a geothermal HVAC system.