woodgeek
New Member
Posts:8
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| 30 May 2008 08:09 PM |
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Hello all...
I'm drawing up plans for a 1500sq ft straw bale home (most likely timber frame or modified post beam structure) built on a slab foundation. I would be using SIPs for the roof. I've seen lots about alternative options for exterior / load bearing walls but haven't found anything that I could use for interior walls that wouldn't be overkill and much more expensive that stick-frame walls. One of my goals is no drywall, so something like Rastra would be perfect and I suppose I could always fill it with something other than concrete, but it still would be pretty pricy for interior wall construction, plus maybe too heavy on the slab.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!
Carl |
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wes
Advanced Member
Posts:810
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| 31 May 2008 08:08 PM |
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Unfortunately, I have been looking for years for an alternative to drywall. And I can't find anything that is suitable and anywhere near cost competitive. If anybody has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them, also.
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| Wes Shelby<br>Design Systems Group<br>Murray KY<br>[email protected] |
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Orono
New Member
Posts:26
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| 31 May 2008 09:02 PM |
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I plan on looking into AAC or gigacrete type panels for interior walls when I get to start building my house. |
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ReadyToRetire
Basic Member
Posts:212
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| 01 Jun 2008 06:23 AM |
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Wes,
Not too far off topic:
Given that drywall is installed, what's your opinion of a plaster skim coat rather than merely filling the divots with mud?
Very respectfully,
Larry
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wes
Advanced Member
Posts:810
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| 02 Jun 2008 07:06 AM |
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RTR,
I like the idea. You still have to tape the seams and fill the screw/nail holes, but then the skimcoat can replace the multiple coats of filling and sanding to get a traditional smooth surface. It also helps eliminate a problem that is becoming more common with the use of darker paint colors, and eggshell/satin finishes. The problem, which I have heard called shading or shadowing or many other more horrible adjectives is caused by the very white drywall 'mud' and the more gray color of the raw drywall coming through and causing this shading on the walls, especially under bright light conditions. Two coats of a premium primer and the use of flat latex finish paint will eliminate the problem, but only if your client does not demand the fancier finishes.
I recently spoke with a commerical drywall contractor who said that they were now requiring this type of drywall finish
system or they would take no responsibility of the way the walls look when painted.
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| Wes Shelby<br>Design Systems Group<br>Murray KY<br>[email protected] |
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Raider Bill
New Member
Posts:75
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| 02 Jun 2008 12:59 PM |
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Add some color to your primer coat. |
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ReadyToRetire
Basic Member
Posts:212
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| 02 Jun 2008 07:49 PM |
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Thank you Wes.
Very respectfully,
Larry
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Bruce Frey
Basic Member
Posts:429
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| 04 Jun 2008 01:10 AM |
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Posted By wes on 06/02/2008 7:06 AM
RTR,
I like the idea. You still have to tape the seams and fill the screw/nail holes, but then the skimcoat can replace the multiple coats of filling and sanding to get a traditional smooth surface. It also helps eliminate a problem that is becoming more common with the use of darker paint colors, and eggshell/satin finishes. The problem, which I have heard called shading or shadowing or many other more horrible adjectives is caused by the very white drywall 'mud' and the more gray color of the raw drywall coming through and causing this shading on the walls, especially under bright light conditions. Two coats of a premium primer and the use of flat latex finish paint will eliminate the problem, but only if your client does not demand the fancier finishes.
I recently spoke with a commerical drywall contractor who said that they were now requiring this type of drywall finish
system or they would take no responsibility of the way the walls look when painted.
The problem is usually the slight difference in texture between the very smooth sanded drywall mud and the slightly fuzzy surface of the paper, especially after it has been sanded a bit. A third texture is the unsanded area of the paper. Throw in a bit of shadow from built up edge joints and new drywall can look pretty bad. You are right; dark, glossy surfaces exacerbate the problem. Any feedback if the "paperless" drywall products work better from this standpoint? Using a skim coat is a bit more $, but leaves a nice finish and usually solves those problems. I have seen this done in the past on high end commercial projects, usually on the 3rd, or final finishing pass before sanding. Bruce |
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cmkavala
Veteran Member
Posts:4324
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| 04 Jun 2008 07:05 AM |
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RTR;
thin coat plastering should be done over the proper substrate " blue board"
Bruce;
if your drywall man is getting fuzzys, he is a bad finisher. There should only be minimal light sanding after the final coat. or a lot of finishers will use a damp sponge to blend feathered edge
In our area a "slick finish" costs the same as "knock-down" or "orange-peel", but the slick finish wether drywall or plaster looks bad if anything other than flat paint is used |
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| Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br /> |
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Mark Fleming
Basic Member
Posts:112
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| 04 Jun 2008 07:58 PM |
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A few years ago, there were a couple of companies claiming that they were going to produce wheat straw panels for non-bearing interior walls. Super green, made from waste material, blah blah. I saw one sample of the stuff. It was compressed so tight that it formed an almost solid mass, kind of like 1.5" OSB. Claim was that with a plaster coating or fireproof paint it met the code fire ratings, it was quieter than 2x4 w/drywall, etc. A home I was working on tried to get the material, but by the time we needed it, we couldn't find the "promoters." Phone disconnected. Hmmmm. Too good to be true?
Mark
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The Panel Guy
New Member
Posts:66
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| 05 Jun 2008 12:04 AM |
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For once you're not going to see everyone jump on the bandwagon to bash sticks. It doesn't pencil to use ICFs or SIPs for interior frames, although I do have a couple of builders that like the ease of construction and the straight walls and use SIP interiors for the majority of their interior frame. You can get straight walls with steel frame also, which is somewhat cheaper than sticks cause you never have to repair or replace the steel stud work. Electricians will charge you more usually with steel cause of the special tooling and accessories they have to purchase. |
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GeorgiaTom
Basic Member
Posts:159
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| 05 Jun 2008 10:13 PM |
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Posted By The Panel Guy on 06/05/2008 12:04 AM
Electricians will charge you more usually with steel cause of the special tooling and accessories they have to purchase. TPG; this is not true - steel studs are pre-punched for wiring, so the electrician doesn't need to bore a 1,000 holes in wood . the plastc gromets are at the homer and only cost 6 cents a piece. |
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Mark Fleming
Basic Member
Posts:112
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| 05 Jun 2008 11:04 PM |
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You'd better hurry and buy your material if you're going to use steel. Last week, $6.60 for a 10' track. Today, I paid $7.10. I imagine wood studs are doing the same or more if it's based on diesel fuel freight costs.
Mark |
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