In my 1850's timeberframe (hip roofed) the rafters tie into the beam without leaving space for any soffit venting - the roof decking lies right against the beam...and the only way to add ventilation would be to chow out the corner of the beam (yikes!) or add a second roof deck above the first (cold roof) and ventilate the old deck underneath.  That may happen but it will be a few year before I can afford it.

We are having 18 inches of blown in cellulose installed in a couple weeks.  The installer has recomended filling the eave edge (where the wall and ceiling come togehter) all the way up with cellulose to maximise insulation in the area.  This would mean insulation in contact with the roof deck.   I am nervous about this but I dont really see any effective way of improving ventilation, so maybe it is reasonable to minimise condensation by maximising insulation. 

Anyone?

I should have added that there are two small gable vents where the ridge begins to 'hip out" but that is it for ventilation. And we are blowing cellulose over 6 inches of vermiculatie (yes I know about the asbestos issue). So far no rot ievident in the attic of this 160 yr old house.

I would put in vent chutes and install the cor a vent product that will give you soffit venting along the bottom of the shingle that comes closest to your beam. I would never blow cellulose to the roof deck.

Yes I would put up acor-a-vent type product except that in this old timberframe there is no venting at the soffit, and no space to put one since the roof deck lies against the beam as stated above. The cor-a-vent would thus simply be acting as a spacer, not really assisting venting since a vent does not and seemingly cannot be made at the soffit. This is a non standard issue, adaptaion of an old structure to new ideas, and standard fixes don't always apply. I have been involved in building long enough to know the standard answers...but what I am hoping to find is someone who works with old houses more than I have since this is a bit of a different situation.

I could put up cor-a-vent simply as a spacer between teh cellulose and the deck, or I could tacking typar across the top of the beam, and then up the first 3-4 ft of rafter, again just to keep the cellulose from contacting the roof deck, but that does limit the insulation to only an inch or two at the rafter/beam intersection, which is also not a desirable situation.

I wasnt suggesting a "standard fix" nor a "cor a vent type product". I was suggesting a nonstandard product for your application that will give you venting above your beam (10 sq inches NFVA per lineal foot) with a 1" high profile into the attic space as I already told you. It doesnt go in the soffit, it's roofed in. I've done what you want to do on old homes with it and its the only product i know of that works and is weatherproof for your application. If you would reread my post maybe you'll figure it out; since you jumped to conclusions so fast someone else can give you the name of it.

Sorry,
Your post mentioned Cor-a-vent, and I thought you were refering to their between the rafters product wich all the builders just refer to as Cor-a-vent...Now I realize you were refering to another product. My apologies, I have jsut had too many people tell me to put up standard soffit venting and I jumped the gun.

I have seen the product you are referring to...don't remember the name either, but I will look into that. As an alternative, I have considered just applying a standing seam roof but $$$ is an issue, and I think your suggestion is less expensive given that the existing asphalt roof is in decent shape.