I'm getting ready to build a new house and I would love to collect knowledge from across the internet before I begin. I have a site picked out and some rough initial plans. I'm designing for efficiency and incorporating many green things like earth sheltering, passive solar, ICF (possibly) etc.

I have posted elaborations on many of my thoughts on my blog:
http://theopenhouseproject.blogspot.com/





I have spoken with several professionals, (some of whom I have found on these forums) and it seems workable but I would like to hear all of your thoughts as well.
Thanks
-Jon

Looks great for ICFs, walls that match the walls below. I like big eves though.

You are going to have to add some overhangs and a porch. Without that you are going to get too much solar gain in the summer time and have an oven for a living area. There are some calculators on the web that can help out with length that these need to be to get the best performance in your area. I agree with ICFcon great home for ICF's

Might want to add some guard rails on that patio so you can get occupancy. Also, unless that's like an 8 foot tall patio door, you might have some headroom issues on the 2nd floor. Be hard to insulate to good depth in the attic at the 2nd floor exterior eave wall line. Why doesent the basement windows or doors or whatever they are have any frames? What's that pink backfill under your suspended dirt on the left? Is that foam board? I like that smooth finish with a band board, careful how you flash that. Is that a spray on roof?

Basically, how are you supposed to get opinions with a conceptual drawing and no info? Besides the fact that an expert has deemed it great for ICF's, not sure why an expert hasn't recommended SIPS, maybe it's an unworkable design for SIPS.

ICFs definitely for the basement level. You can opt for SIPs above grade if you don't have the budget for ICF. ICFs (depending on what part of the country you're from) can range from $ 15.00 to $ 20.00 per sq. ft. of wall surface, materials & labor. SIPs run $ 9 to $ 12.00 depending on what region you're in.

Greentree ICF's Because he has 2 floors that are below/partial grade.  Run one system up all 3 floors and be done with it.

You can build anything you can dream-----------------just takes more dollars.

Currently completing a monolithic concrete dome in Florida. this 30 foot dome will be off the grid capable because of the 3 inches of urethane foam on the exterior of the concrete.
Indestructible and off the grid capable.
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ooopie, I must say that, in my 35 years of experience in this industry, I don't think that I've ever seen a more organized, thoughtful, approach to the concept of "planning for the perfect home" than you have presented on your "blogsite". Not much else to say in that regard.

I doubt that anyone is going to "sell" you on a system, a product, or services, in connection with your project. However, you will "buy" products and services based on your careful analysis of information that is available to you.

Having said that, if I were in your area, and had the opportunity to present my products and services, I would prepare a proposal for you that would include TF ICF's for most, or all, of your walls, and R-Control SIPs for your roof, and perhaps some of your wall area. I'm sure that I don't need to tell you how to get more information in connection with these products if you're interested. However, I would be happy to try to help you by answering questions, and, perhaps, by providing referrals for installation services if that would be helpful. Should that be the case you may send me an email via the service that is provided by this website.

In any event, best of luck with your project, and I'll continue to follow this thread, and chime in when I feel its appropriate to do so.

I like the website and the design process you're engaging in. Here are some thoughts about the schematic design at this point:

I would worry that the solar gain will kill you in the summer. Since your roof pitches back down again, if you extend that eave much you will interfere with the sight lines from the top story. And you'd have to extend that eave about 20 feet beyond the roof to protect the second level windows. I would be very concerned that the sun would beat on those windows spring, summer and fall. Sure, you could draw the blinds, but that would be a hassle given the number of windows, and then your interior would be dark, since you have almost no other windows.

Also, what were you planning to do about thermal mass? I assume a slab in the basement. But that doesn't get as much sun as the other floors, which look to have joists. Unless those floors are concrete, you will get a ton of sun during the day but nothing to suck it up. Meaning the house will quickly overheat, and there won't be warm concrete to radiate heat into the house all evening.

Finally, I think the lack of windows on the north and east will be more depressing than you realize.

See how this design has at least two large windows on the east, and then a whole row of small windows along the top of the east wall:
http://bp3.blogger.com/_W91Ll4NHs2Y/SAZvGCf_FJI/AAAAAAAAAuo/_Pirzsux_zI/s1600-h/nice3.jpeg
The other designs you liked had much more east facing window. Moreover, north and east light is a very nice quality of light. I notice on your blog that you're an artist. Typically, art studios have northern exposure, as that is considered the best light. Obviously (especially given the site) you're not going to have a bank of north-facing windows, but if you let the 'passive solar' theme drive your design it will have real costs in terms of livability.

Windows on the east, west and north will also help create natural drafts, which is important for cooling. Unless you're planning to crank the air conditioner, in which case having eco-features like passive solar makes no sense.

You mentioned that you are willing to rethink traditional lifestyle issues. I suggest that you consider a smaller house, but one that uses space better and is more enjoyable to inhabit.