Non-structural insulated panels
Last Post 30 Jun 2010 10:17 AM by awhite. 4 Replies.
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awhiteUser is Offline
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29 Jun 2010 01:02 PM

I'm in the final stages of planning for a new house here in the hot humid south.  Plans are complete and now I'm just selecting the materials and methods.  Barring a last-minute switch to SIPs, I plan to use conventional construction with the addition of nailbase rigid insulation (Hunter, Cornell, or Atlas) for the roof and walls, with dense pack cellulose or spray foam between the rafters and studs.  The local suppliers of nailbase insulation tell me they have never sold these products for residential use (they didn't have any problems with it, they just haven't ever sold any).  This has me wondering, and hopefully someone on this forum has used this product and can elighten me a bit.

1. Did you use vented or unvented nailbase for the roof? (I will have 11 on 12 roof, and I'm thinking I could probably go with either if I use a light colored asphalt shingle)

2. What brand/thickness did you select?

3. How difficult was it to have the panels fit snugly to each other, and did you have to fill any gaps with caulk or spray foam?

4. Were there any challenges in installation?  How did the trades react to using the product?

4. The house will have a brick exterior.  I could probably get 2 layers of 1" rigid and 1x4 sleepers for less than the cost of nailbase panels.  Would the brick ties be anchored sufficiently being attached to 1x4's?

Thanks so much!

Aubrey

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29 Jun 2010 01:49 PM
There's no advantage to using nailbase goods behind a brick veneer & cavity. The OSB would just provide food for mold in the humid conditions of the cavity. Any sleepers you use that will be between the brick and iso would need to be moisture tolerant as well. Steel furring works. (You may have to seek it out from commercial construction suppliers.)

If you use steel furring properly through-screwed into the structural framing it would likely be sufficiently structural for anchoring the brick ties. I'd be skeptical of using 1x4 for that purpose (even pressure treated).

It's easier to get excellent air & vapor tightness using 2 layers of foil-faced goods w/FSK taped seams, staggering the seams between layers. The edges would best be foam-sealed as well.

I've yet to use it (but am curious to read any feedback), but the vented nailbase stuff is probably a better choice, since sun on dew or rain soaked shingles has a HUGE vapor drive toward the interior, which would be harmless to the vented stuff, but could end up saturating the nailbase of the unvented goods in the hot humid south. It might be more susceptible to hurricane damage however.
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29 Jun 2010 02:25 PM

Thank you, Dana.  One of my coworkers suggested using 3" screws to attach the brick ties through the iso to the studs, using no sleepers at all - I'll check with the building dept to see if that would pass muster.

You mention staggering the seams - would the seams on the inner layer need to be taped, or would tape only be needed on the outer layer?  Would a house wrap be needed at all, either under or outside the foam?

 

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29 Jun 2010 03:12 PM
Posted By awhite on 29 Jun 2010 02:25 PM

Thank you, Dana.  One of my coworkers suggested using 3" screws to attach the brick ties through the iso to the studs, using no sleepers at all - I'll check with the building dept to see if that would pass muster.

You mention staggering the seams - would the seams on the inner layer need to be taped, or would tape only be needed on the outer layer?  Would a house wrap be needed at all, either under or outside the foam?

 


Tape the seams on both layers- the air & vapor tightness more assured that way than if just one layer is taped.

Housewrap or felt over the exterior of the foam gives the vapor a condensing surface that won't degrade over time the way an aluminum facer might with drips running down it.  Be sure to design in at least 3/8 of cavity (1-2" is better) between the brick and the foam to provide a reasonable volume of air to take up those intermittent peak vapor drives.  (And of course, the usual weep & vent holes in the bottom & top courses to ventilate the cavity.)
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30 Jun 2010 10:17 AM
FWIW, I received a quote yesterday for Hunter ventilated nailbase with 2" of iso for $169 per square (100 ft2).
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