Cathedral ceiling insulation
Last Post 30 Aug 2011 08:22 PM by rbisys1. 14 Replies.
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Brendan WalshUser is Offline
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08 Aug 2011 07:35 PM
I'm about to start converting my Long Island, New York, ranch house ceiling to cathedral ceiling. The rafters are 2x6 but will add on 2x4s on edge for an extra few inches. My question is about insulation. Open cell or closed cell? I'm tempted by the lesser cost of the open cell quote i got from one outfit, but the other contractor is pleading with me to use closed cell only. I don't want to waste effort venting so no batts. Any suggestions?
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09 Aug 2011 07:10 AM
Since you intend to use foam (of some type), run your added 2x4s perpendicular to your existing 2x6 rafters.
Then make sure that the foam insulation completely encapsulates the 2x6's. This will reduce the area of thermal breaks caused by the wood extending all the way from roof decking to interior ceiling.
Wes Shelby<br>Design Systems Group<br>Murray KY<br>[email protected]
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09 Aug 2011 10:33 AM
A combination of 1-2" of closed cell + blown fiber would meet code. A full fill of open cell would not. Open cell foam would be too vapor-permeable, and lead to rot-levels of wintertime moisture accumulation in the roof deck. Closed cell foam is much less permeable. The inner surface of the closed cell would be the condensing surface for interior moisture drives, but it doesn't wick it toward the wood, and it isn't damaged by moisture. Closed cell will protect the wood, open cell will not, and using open cell without a vent channel between the foam & wood is a code violation, whereas the closed cell + fiber option is not.

Low density wet-sprayed cellulose will usually be the best value in $/R terms, but if dense-packed 3lbs+/cubic-foot dry blown cellulose or 1.8lbs blown super-fine fiberglass (Optima or Spider) blown in netting will give you a slightly higher R value- higher than open cell foam, usually for less money.

With 2x6 + 2x4, make the 2x4s perpendicular to the 2x6, as wes suggests, (but you needn't encapsulate the 2x6 with foam.) Your insulation depth with that framing will be 9". With 1" of foam (R6) and 8" of cellulose (R28+) you're center-cavity R will be ~ R35- higher than if you'd done it all as open-cell foam. But with only 1" of foam only 17% of the total R is air-impermeable, and there WILL be condensing events at the foam/fiber interface in winter in a Long Island climate, and the cellulose will undergo moisture cycling. It won't damage the cellulose, but it may cause it to settle over a decade or so (unless dense-packed). If you bump that to 2" (R13) with 7" of fiber (~R25) for at total of R38. In that stackup the air-impermeable foam is then 34% of the center-cavity total, and condensation events will be rare & brief in duration, with no appreciable moisture cycling of the cellulose- it'll be dimensionally stable for a century or more, even at modest densities.

The 2" of closed cell + 7 " of wet-spray cellulose would cost less than 8.5-9" of open cell foam in most markets, and will outperform it measurably. Open cell at that depth will run ~$3.50 per square foot, sometimes more, whereas 2" of closed cell would be ~$2- 2.30/foot, and the 7" of low density wet spray cellulose sub-$1/foot. Dense packing would raise it to about parity with open cell, or maybe a bit more.

For more info, see: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-1001-moisture-safe-unvented-wood-roof-systems/view?topic=doctypes/reports

Note in particular the moisture performance simulation results Tables 3 & 4 on p.11 (Boston is the closest climate-analogy to Long Island).
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27 Aug 2011 01:44 AM
I think if your contractor is suggesting you to do closed cell then it would be better option. As closed cell is more effective than open cell. May it is costly but security is more important than money i think.
<a href="http://www.oceansevenroofing.com/Services/Insulation/Insulation.html">SPF Roofing</a>
rbisys1User is Offline
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27 Aug 2011 11:58 AM
Greetings,

I just love all these "R" factors people throw around, as if, they were the all encompassing answer
"R" factors first. I have a standing offer to install free of charge the insulation of your choice to anyone who can prove that any of these materials get their advertised "R" value in the "installed winter/summer condition. This offer has been up for over 20 yrs and no one has been able to prove it.

Second if you use fiber types you not only have a low functioning insulation, you also have moisture and possibly mold.

Your roof sys requires venting. I don't see any recommendations on how to do this. So now you have another problem.

The only material that is high eff, (97%) is radiant barriers. You can also properly vent your roof sys. SEE core-a-vent.com

You will have NO moisture or mold problems and The btu/sf/hr will be about TWO.

If you would like a drawing showing this high eff sys, contact me at [email protected]

You will not have to add 2x4s. But you will have to furr on the bottom of the rafters with 7/8" steel furring strips.
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29 Aug 2011 02:02 PM
Calculate the emissivity & heat transfer of radiant barrier covered with frost or liquid condensation, and get back to us, eh?
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29 Aug 2011 05:55 PM
Greetings,

Show me a residential job that has frost or liquid condensation? I have never seen it in 30 yrs except for a mistake I once made and corrected it. Frost? You got to be kidding. Which reminds me that in about 1964 the CBs in the Arctic replaced the FG in their buildings' walls because the condensation turned the batts into solid blocks of ice, with 3 layer RB insulation. that cured the problem and according to two guys who there at the time verified that to me. Seems it was a continuous project of removing interior panels and replacing the batts. One guy said it reduced their oil usage about 30%. They had no moisture or frost problems with the RB.

However to more directly answer your question. If you have a RB dividing the airspace there would be little or no difference if moisture did occur on one surface. Very simple reason. I'll let you figure out why.

Also, if there is enough air moving in the wall that frost would occur, believe me, you have a much bigger problem than the frost.

Now how about you telling us the increase in heat flow thru fiber insulation material based on the % of condensation that is always in fiber material. Now if you can't do that I can post the results of the NBS
test from the 70's.

Now your ? also indicates that you know little or nothing about RB. To ask such a ? you would have to be prompted by some one else, say a FG rep or similar. Yes, been there, seen that.

Keep with me I'll educate you about RB and the materials you push.

Please post your answers on here. I think every one should see them. Don't you? And please, no cheap shots. After all we're professionals.
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29 Aug 2011 06:10 PM
So now I'm a shill for the fiberglass industry? That's pretty rich!

Show me the data, tough guy! ;-)
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29 Aug 2011 07:37 PM
Greetings,

I gave you the answer. What part of it didn't you understand?
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30 Aug 2011 01:23 AM
What is an RB going to do for air leaks. Air washing is going to negate any benefit of an RB. I dont think you can take an improperly air sealed and insulated building in an extreme climate and assume that proves the value of an RB is assinine.

In the artic the extermely cold dry air contrasting with the warm moist interior air makes for a huge amount of vapor drive. For that location a properly installed vapor barrier would be required. This would keep the mositure out of the wall and allow the insualtion to perform better than a rb could. So lets talk about properly built assemblies and see which would perform better,

Radiant barriers have been tested in wall assembiles in the south and have been deamed to be ineffective in a vertical application. Radiant barriers have been shown to be effectie in attic when stabled to the rafters, this is in areas that are primarily cooling climates. The farther north you go the less value they will have, that is they are not cost effective (put the extra money into windows etc). ORNL reports that RB's laid on the attic floor loose about 10% of thier efficiency per year becoming worthless in a few years.

Radiant barriers work better in poorly insualted attics in which case a homeowner should air seal and insulate. Not good news if you are selling RB's because a well insulated and air sealed attic does not benefit from an RB except in the deep south.

R value is a fluid number. The R is based on testing at a specified temp, I think about 75 degrees. The purpose of the R value test is to have a standard testing method. The R value of fiberglass will change at different temps.

The focus on is outdated. Thermal bridging and installion play a big part in how insulation performs. More testing needs to be done on the performance of wall systems. Now for RB's to be considered some very inovated system would have to be developed. RB's become conductors when in contact with other surfaces. So the wall would have to include an air gap. On top of that the air gap would to have no air leaks from either side. You would have to addressthe vapor barrier issues that would be affected by the RB.

Radiant barriers work well in space because of the lack of air and that heat transfer is via radiant heat waves. On earth heat travels more through conduction and convection. That is where insualtion is effective.

Please show me in the energy star sandards that show that RB's can replace insulation.
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30 Aug 2011 12:51 PM
Posted By Roberth on 30 Aug 2011 01:23 AM
What is an RB going to do for air leaks. Air washing is going to negate any benefit of an RB. I dont think you can take an improperly air sealed and insulated building in an extreme climate and assume that proves the value of an RB is assinine.

Answer:  Since RB are solid foil they will act as an air barrier in most cases.  They are perforated, but the holes are very small so the air passage is minimal if any.  If you have "air washing" then you have a serious problem that would affect any insulation.
You're last sentence does not make sense.  Please clarify construction details and reference.

In the artic the extermely cold dry air contrasting with the warm moist interior air makes for a huge amount of vapor drive. For that location a properly installed vapor barrier would be required. This would keep the mositure out of the wall and allow the insualtion to perform better than a rb could. So lets talk about properly built assemblies and see which would perform better,

ANSWER:  Yes dryer but moisture is still available and if a dew point is there condensation will form, law of physics.  Now there are commecial applications, such as multi thous gallons/ cu. ft of liquid nitrogen were even with several layers of reflective mylar condensation does form and they have drainage taps to draw off the moisture.  Back to reply.  Non perf RB are VB, certainly better than plastic.  However since the RB does not condensate moisture and is an air barrier, then a separate VB is not needed.  Common VB do not prevent condensation in walls.  If the moisture is not available from the inside then the dew point will draw from the outside.  Law of physics.

Radiant barriers have been tested in wall assembiles in the south and have been deamed to be ineffective in a vertical application. Radiant barriers have been shown to be effectie in attic when stabled to the rafters, this is in areas that are primarily cooling climates. The farther north you go the less value they will have, that is they are not cost effective (put the extra money into windows etc). ORNL reports that RB's laid on the attic floor loose about 10% of thier efficiency per year becoming worthless in a few years.


ANSWER:  Yes that rumor has been floating around for a long time. Isn't it amazing RB barriers work every place else except in the south.  Does that sound logical to you?  Actually RB shoud be installed in the lower cord.  Effective is not the word for it.  How about reducing AC run time by 50% +.  North, south, RB are still 95% + eff. This is competition propaganda.  Ck emissivity chart of a mechanical engineering handbook.  If that is true then how come the Navy was able , according to one CB I talked to, reduce their heating oil consumption by about 30% when they pulled the frozen FG batts and replaced with 3 layer RB.  Actually the greater the delta T the more energy you will save.  95 % eff is 95% eff regardless what the temp is.  I have some serious ?s about ORNL.  The largest reduction in eff that I know of a RB due to dust was about 20%. 80% is is still better than 20% for foam.  Because of that report I developed a two layer sys for retrofit attics.  Regardless of time you will always have at lest two surfaces dust free.  I have had 1 layer RB retrofit in attics for many years and they seem to be doing just fine.

Radiant barriers work better in poorly insualted attics in which case a homeowner should air seal and insulate. Not good news if you are selling RB's because a well insulated and air sealed attic does not benefit from an RB except in the deep south.

ANSWER:  You really didn't say that, did you?  Where did you get all this bs. If it is used in the Arctic and on space ships, etc then why not in Minn?  Use your intelligence.  This bit of mischif originated with the mineral wool people.  Oh yes, the DOE promotes this falsehood too to discourge you from using RB.That's you USA; Llc dollars at work for you.

R value is a fluid number. The R is based on testing at a specified temp, I think about 75 degrees. The purpose of the R value test is to have a standard testing method. The R value of fiberglass will change at different temps.

Answer:  See answer below. *

The focus on is outdated. Thermal bridging and installion play a big part in how insulation performs. More testing needs to be done on the performance of wall systems. Now for RB's to be considered some very inovated system would have to be developed. RB's become conductors when in contact with other surfaces. So the wall would have to include an air gap. On top of that the air gap would to have no air leaks from either side. You would have to addressthe vapor barrier issues that would be affected by the RB.

ANSWER: RB have been on the market for at least 83 years that I know of.  I happen to get a roll of material that was manufactured in about 1927.  So I would believe that in this time period most of your concerns have been addressed.  The problem is your lack of knowledge about this subject and you're just shot gunning the subject, using old, really, really old, cliques-he that the bulk insulation people perpetuate. My understanding is that foil is the most tested material out there.  Because of its high eff it is the benchmark against which all others are tested.  Also. if you knew of all the misuse of testing standards that that place, you would be less enamoured with the published data. In case you didn't know, it's the mineral wool industry that controls the test methods in this country.  The fox guarding the hen house.

Radiant barriers work well in space because of the lack of air and that heat transfer is via radiant heat waves. On earth heat travels more through conduction and convection. That is where insulation is effective.
 ANSWER:  * WRONG WRONG WRONG.  Where do you get this stuff.  Did you take science in high school?

Please show me in the energy star sandards that show that RB's can replace insulation.

ANSWER:  Go to;  fifoil.com

If you want articles that will clear up some of this for you, send me an E-m and I will send several attachments.  [email protected]




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30 Aug 2011 03:25 PM
Oh please get real. Your spout a bunch of bs about rb's. Lets look at the 3 ways heat travels on earth. Convection, conduction and radiant.

Radiant barriers have limited uses and limited benefits. Many times the benefit is not economically feaseable. Where they do have some benefit is in a hot attic in the south during the summer. The reason for that is the roof gives off most of its heat by radiant heat. But the radiant barrier supplements existing insualtion and does not replace it. Even still it only reduces cooling loads by 10% or so.

You did say that if I had air leaks I had bigger problems. What house doesnt have air leaks. It takes extreme measure to reduce air leaks to passivehaus standards. But I dont see passivehaus say that you can omitt insualtion and use rb's. I dont see passivehaus calling for radiant barriers. In case you dont know passivehaus stanards were developed in Europe and the US had no part in thier development. American insualtion manufacturors had no influence either.

You spout so many falsehoods and lies that anyone visitings this site to research energy efficiency should know not to rely on what you say. They should look at studies ORNL, FSEC etc.

An FSEC study compared homes that recieved rb's in the aittc and those that upgraded from R19 to R30. The RB homes saw an 8 degree reduction in attic temps. That does not seem to support your claim of it being such a great insulator. The telling data is the daily reduction in Kwh/day. The rb homes were slightly better at 3.6 Kwh/day reductions versus 3.4Kwh/day for the upgraded insualtion. In reading through the data the homes that showed the most gain from an RB had insualtion levels of R12 to R19. Current code would be require an R38 in attics.

This is a quote from the study "the RBS showed no reduction or real change in cooling energy use." This was from a home with R30 blown fiberglass. There was no reduction in cooling.

The comments in the study showed many of the homes that had low insualtion levels also had very poorly installed insualtion. Batts there were not fitted between the studs correctly. Blown in insulation that was uneven. These are the types of installs that have effective R values of 50% or less than the measured R value. Besides degradtion from convection the joist were not covered and would also have high levels of thermal bridging. Now compare that to the home that had R30 blown evenly and covering the joists effectively stopping thermal bridging. That home showed no reduction in cooling costs.

So if the homes that had low levels of insualtion and poorly installed insualtion were brought up to current code the radiant barrier may give you a 5% reduction in cooling costs. What would be the payback period or what I like better is what would be the ROI. Would you get a higher ROI spending that money on better windows, energy efficient appliances, etc.

If you were building new I would incorporate roof sheating that had a radiant barrier applied and insulate to an R38 or better. I would not install a radiant barrier on top of the insualtion as its effectiveness with degrade due to dust accumulation.

The climate for the study was around 8,000 cooling degree days (ccd) and 1,300 HDD. Now shift that north and flip floop with 8,000 HDD and 2,000 cdd and you will not see a cost effective benefit from an RB.

The first line of defense should be properly installed insulation that meets or exceeds current codes or EPA recommendations. I am also very big on air sealing. After that I start looking at what gives the greatest return on investment.





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30 Aug 2011 04:36 PM
Greetings,

You know, some people are going to believe what they want to believe and will find some report from some where to support their position. You seem to know all there is to know about something you little about.
I have over 30 yrs experience and acquired knowledge. Obviously that is not enough.
I offered to send you reports and other information. No response. You obviously have all the knowledge you need.

You stick with yours, Ill stick with mine.

You called me a liar. Cosmic law says that what you accuse some else of being you are that, yourself.
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30 Aug 2011 05:18 PM
Post a link and I will be happy to read them
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30 Aug 2011 08:22 PM
Greetings,

There is no link. These are reports and other material that I have gathered for people to read. You will have to e-m me so that I can send to you. I would post here on forum but the pdf doesn't lend its self to pasting, neither do the drawings. I'll probably have to use 2 or more e-m to send all the material. [email protected]

You mentioned the ORNL test. Here is something to ponder.
FG material, glass, is less than 10% eff in rejecting RE. Actually listed 95% emissive. Glass weighs about 150# / cu. ft. FG batt weighs a few ounces / cu. ft. Consider, how fast could/ does RE pass thru FG batt considering the batt is 99% + air spaces and the emissivity of the glass?
RB are 97% eff in rejecting RE.
To demonstrate, take a 3 1/2" FG batt, about 15 x15", preferably with foil on one side, or plain batt and place on a sheet of kitchen foil. Support the material on a small box with one side removed so that you can reach in and touch the foil from the side. Foil facing down.
Take a 250 watt heat lamp and hold about 8-10" about the top of the FG, about center. Turn on lamp and count 20 sec. Reach in and gently touch center of the foil. What do you feel. Now. let it bake for 1 min then ck again. 10 min then ck.

Now do the same with two sheets of foil that are separated by 1/2 - 1". Turn on and bake for 10 min. ck the bottom foil surface. Let bake for 1 hr then ck. Let bake for 4 hrs, then ck.

Now here's the ?. After you have done this please explain to yourself how ORNL came up with their results. It does not compute.

You cannot trust testing labs, private or gov. You have to test for yourself, or pay for the testing yourself.

Another example. When FG came out with their blown batt about 15 -20 yrs ago they contracted with an eastern university to test for air infiltration. I believe Penn State, but I could be wrong. Anyway there was an article in Pop Sc mag and they named the university. I called the University to talk to the professor in charge. He wasn't there, but his assistant who was familiar with the details was. Seems that when they ran the tests the air infiltration rate was the same as plain FG batts. They ran the test again, Same results. When they informed the FG people they were upset and canceled the contract and went else were to get the results they wanted. This seems to be SOP for the FG industry. YOU CAN"T TRUST TESTS OR WHO THEY COME FROM. YOU HAVE TO FIND OUT FOR YOURSELF. I did and that's why I was involved with RBs for over 30 yrs. This didn't happen by accident. My back ground at the time was journeyman machinist specializing in R & D work. Quality control Supervisor for international can mfgr. Cost estimator for a Lttion Industry company. I was well qualified to evaluate the performance on my own.

In thirty years I have never been disappointed in the performance of my installations. I have never had a mold or moisture problem. Can that be said for FG.

I'm on a roll again. Locally, St Louis area, I had a Physician that decided that he was going to become the cellulose king and make lots of money. Now referring to previous post about the Arctic, he claimed the same scenario but with cellulose.
Well that fell apart because at that time, mid 60's, the government would issue a product description and mfg spec as an HH-I- XXXXX. You couldn't substitute. Guess what, there is no HH-I-xxx for cellulose, BUT, there is for foil insulation, HH-I-1252-B. I happen to have a copy of it. So the Navy knew exactly what they were getting, because, they wrote the specs for manufacture. Why would the Navy write specs for something that wouldn't work. Another note on this. If they had put cellulose in the walls it would have turned to a solid block of ice too. Cellulose holds/suspends more moisture than FG. Have you ever had a cellulose rep mention that to you?


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