Putting foil anywhere in the stackup would eliminate the ability of the roof deck to dry toward the interior, putting it at higher risk for roof-rot. The roof deck is fairly well protected from taking on wintertime moisture if just 1-2" of cc foam is used, followed by a full rafter-fill of cellulose or dense-packed fiberglass. You can then use a semi-permeable foam such as unfaced EPS or up to 1" of XPS between the gypsum and rafters. Mind you, this would not meet the IRC code, even though there's some pretty- good science indicating that it will work, and work well: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-1001-moisture-safe-unvented-wood-roof-systems The IRC requires at least R15-R20 (depending on whether you're in US climate zone 4 or 5) of closed cell foam under the roof deck, which would also inhibit the drying capacity toward the interior. If you go the full code-complaint route using 3-4" of Icycnene MD-R-200 water-blown 2lb foam would still offer sufficient drying capacity without risk of winter moisture load-up. It's unlikely that the roof deck will exceed the operating temp of any closed cell polyurethane. BTW: There is no radiated heat transfer between the roof deck and the adhered foam- it's all conducted heat. Heat transfer via radiation requires a air (or other gas, or vaccuum) gap between the radiating surface and heated surface. Any time they are in contact the vast majority of the heat transfer is conducted. There is absolutely no rationale for using radiant barriers anywhere in a cathedral ceiling stackup. See also: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-build-insulated-cathedral-ceiling
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