Alexis
New Member
Posts:67
 |
| 19 Sep 2013 02:58 PM |
|
Hello, just wondering if I need to do something special to my door jamb in order for them to open. My wall will be almost 15" deep and the door will be "outie"
thanks
Alexis |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bob I
Veteran Member
Posts:1435
|
| 19 Sep 2013 06:03 PM |
|
It'll open, but only 90o. To get it to open further you have two options: flare the wall toward the inside, or mount the door to the inside - which is the only way to get it to open flush. You can always mount an outie storm door. Why does the door need to be an outie? |
|
| Bob Irving<br>RH Irving Homebuilders<br>Certified Passive House Consultant |
|
|
Alexis
New Member
Posts:67
|
| 20 Sep 2013 03:03 PM |
|
The door will be an outie for ease of flashing and the look... thanks for the info, I don't think I mind the door opening only 90 degree |
|
|
|
|
DickRussell
Basic Member
Posts:182
|
| 20 Sep 2013 07:14 PM |
|
I have a 12" cavity, with two doors that are "outies." The jambs come straight out, and I wish those two doors were either like the flared-out window openings or simply wider by perhaps an inch, because the striker rubs against the woodwork at the jamb if I don't hold the lever down until the striker plate is reached. Live and learn!. Right now I have a temporary piece of blue painter's tape to bear the brunt of the striker rubbing, but ultimately I may affix a short strip of some more durable but not too visible material against the jamb for a rub surface. |
|
|
|
|
Alton
Veteran Member
Posts:2164
|
| 20 Sep 2013 07:45 PM |
|
How bad would it look if you routed out the trim to clear the striker? |
|
Residential Designer &
Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period .
334 826-3979 |
|
|
DickRussell
Basic Member
Posts:182
|
| 21 Sep 2013 07:26 PM |
|
Alton, I imagine it would look better if I just glued on a piece of thin but durable clear plastic, no bigger than it needs to be. One of these days I'll fiddle with it. I may try a small piece of Scotch 745 "Book Tape" (I have a roll), something librarians use to cover the Dewey info on the splines of books. I've found it to be non-yellowing and very durable. But I do wish I had thought more about this while designing the house. The two doors I mentioned are outies, but they open against a wall, so more than 90 degrees open wasn't needed. A third door, also an outie, opens out to a covered porch. A fourth, an innie, opens inward, and that one could conceivably open a lot wider than 90 d. But on that one, the wide wall results in the need to find something suitable for extending the door threshold by 5 to 6". Right now there is a piece of Vycor covering the rough opening there. Ideas on that are welcome. |
|
|
|
|
Alton
Veteran Member
Posts:2164
|
| 21 Sep 2013 08:46 PM |
|
I threw out that suggestion because I had an identical problem with one of my projects. An exterior door was installed which swung the wrong way. The housewife did not like the black mark it created on the door jamb. The last time I saw this door it had not been corrected. Correction would have been as simple as installing another door that swung out instead of in. |
|
Residential Designer &
Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period .
334 826-3979 |
|
|
cmkavala
Veteran Member
Posts:4327
|
| 22 Sep 2013 06:42 AM |
|
We run into this sitaution all the time, a custom thickness jamb is a solution, wether it is an innie or an outie the hinge side of the door should always be flush to the wall. If for some reason this is not possible then the door swing will always be restricted by the jamb, Usually getting a wide enough sill is the issue. |
|
| Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br /> |
|
|
Bob I
Veteran Member
Posts:1435
|
| 22 Sep 2013 07:48 AM |
|
google "aluminum threshold extenders" Pemko is one brand, there are others. they work just fine. Or use a piece of exterior decking. You'll need to use Ice & Water Shield or similar beneath it to prevent leaks.
I had the same issue with the latch for a door. I should make the interior wall 1" wider than the exterior wall to prevent the scratch, or buy a metal plate. |
|
| Bob Irving<br>RH Irving Homebuilders<br>Certified Passive House Consultant |
|
|
MSG79
New Member
Posts:45
|
| 01 Oct 2013 10:19 AM |
|
I plan to have about a 14" thick wall in my new house and could run into the same issue, but I'm really having a hard time visualizing the problem you are talking about. I don't understand how the "striker rubs against the woodwork at the jamb". Please help me to understand. |
|
|
|
|
DickRussell
Basic Member
Posts:182
|
| 02 Oct 2013 12:05 PM |
|
Here's the problem. And I see that it's time for a new piece of sticky tape so I can put off doing a proper fix.  |
|
|
|
|
MSG79
New Member
Posts:45
|
| 02 Oct 2013 12:51 PM |
|
Thanks Dick - That makes it clear for a guy like me! Other than what everyone else has already said here is a potential solution, but it assumes that this bolt isn't being used for security i.e. the door has a deadbolt for security. Since you have a small gap between the strike plate and the jamb you could grind off the end of the bolt until it was just short enough to miss the wood, but still hit the strike so that it would still keep the door close when shut. |
|
|
|
|
Alton
Veteran Member
Posts:2164
|
| 02 Oct 2013 03:02 PM |
|
From looking at the picture, it appears that the door swings toward the blue tape. If so, then why was the door installed at that location instead of flush with the wall in the picture? |
|
Residential Designer &
Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period .
334 826-3979 |
|
|
Bob I
Veteran Member
Posts:1435
|
| 02 Oct 2013 03:35 PM |
|
This is what's called an "outie" door. Sometimes they're installed, for different reasons, as "outies", sometimes as "innies". The question here is how to make the "outie" work. |
|
| Bob Irving<br>RH Irving Homebuilders<br>Certified Passive House Consultant |
|
|
Alton
Veteran Member
Posts:2164
|
| 02 Oct 2013 06:00 PM |
|
I have seen a lot of doors in high wind areas of Florida swing out but they are installed flush with the outside face of the wall. I must not understand how this door in the picture was installed. |
|
Residential Designer &
Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period .
334 826-3979 |
|
|
Bob I
Veteran Member
Posts:1435
|
| 02 Oct 2013 06:12 PM |
|
It's a very deep superinsulated wall; the door is installed at the outside surface of the wall, and swings in. The advantage of this method is that you can use a standard threshold - no one supplies 12"+/- installed thresholds, although you can buy extensions - and standard jambs. Installing them near the interior surface might mean weatherproofing issues, plus other complications. Complicated wither way. |
|
| Bob Irving<br>RH Irving Homebuilders<br>Certified Passive House Consultant |
|
|
Alton
Veteran Member
Posts:2164
|
| 02 Oct 2013 07:39 PM |
|
Thanks for explaining about the door installation.
I recently saw a new home with thick walls that used two solid doors with a dead air space between. The outer door swung out and the inner door swung in. No problems. Both doors could open more than 90 degrees. The outer door could have been a glass storm door if allowed by the subdivision. (Yes, some subdivisions do not allow glass storm doors. Some do not allow insulated metal doors - they must be wood. Crazy, yes. Covenants are covenants.) |
|
Residential Designer &
Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period .
334 826-3979 |
|
|