using type1/type 2 eps on 80 year old house
Last Post 27 May 2014 04:13 PM by Dana1. 1 Replies.
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hostakingUser is Offline
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17 Apr 2014 08:46 PM
I'm thinking about removing 1 inch of fibered polyiso that I installed at least 10 years ago. I did not tape the r- board, and also used typar over it, then vinyl siding. The walls have blown cellulose. I keep thinking about all the many layers of interior paint that was put on the plaster walls over 80 years. Also, at least 1 coat of vapor barrier paint. Since I am redoing this job would it be ok to install 1 or 2 inches type 1 eps, then 2 inches of type 2 eps . How permeable would this be. I would tape all joints and use a rain screen/1x4 furring boards? Or, should I tape the polyiso and then install 2 more inches of eps. This is in central Iowa on the 5-6 zone border line. I sure would listen to all opinions on this. Thankyou
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27 May 2014 04:13 PM
If the polyiso has not created moisture issues in the wall, adding EPS over it will not make it any worse.

If the only polyiso is only the R-board, putting 3" EPS on the exterior will slow the exterior drying capacity a bit, but with 1" Type-I (R3.8) plus 2" of Type-II (R8.4) the OSB part of the R-board would have R12 on the outside, and ~R17-R20 of insulation on the inside- a ratio that would be good enough for dew-point control even in US climate zone 6 even without the vapor barrier paint on the interior side.  If you backed off to only the 2" of Type-II it would be good enough for climate zone 5 without the v.b. paint, but with the v.b. paint you're good to go pretty much anywhere. With 1-2" of Type-I plus 2" of Type-II EPS the combined foam layer would have a vapor permeance of about 1.2-1.4 perms (more permeable than 1" of XPS) and plenty of drying capacity for the OSB to dry into the rainscreen gap.

Tape all layers of sheathing & foam as you go, and take care to air-seal the edges.

The key to moisture control in this assembly is to correctly address the window flashing & drain-plane aspects.  It needs to lap correctly to the housewrap, and if the windows are roughly co-planar with the R-board, it's better to use a crinkly type housewrap between the R-board & foam to guarantee a tiny space to allow any bulk water incursions to drain.


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