If the polyiso has not created moisture issues in the wall, adding EPS over it will not make it any worse.
If the only polyiso is only the R-board, putting 3" EPS on the exterior will slow the exterior drying capacity a bit, but with 1" Type-I (R3.8) plus 2" of Type-II (R8.4) the OSB part of the R-board would have R12 on the outside, and ~R17-R20 of insulation on the inside- a ratio that would be good enough for dew-point control even in US climate zone 6 even without the vapor barrier paint on the interior side. If you backed off to only the 2" of Type-II it would be good enough for climate zone 5 without the v.b. paint, but with the v.b. paint you're good to go pretty much anywhere. With 1-2" of Type-I plus 2" of Type-II EPS the combined foam layer would have a vapor permeance of about 1.2-1.4 perms (more permeable than 1" of XPS) and plenty of drying capacity for the OSB to dry into the rainscreen gap.
Tape all layers of sheathing & foam as you go, and take care to air-seal the edges.
The key to moisture control in this assembly is to correctly address the window flashing & drain-plane aspects. It needs to lap correctly to the housewrap, and if the windows are roughly co-planar with the R-board, it's better to use a crinkly type housewrap between the R-board & foam to guarantee a tiny space to allow any bulk water incursions to drain.
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