How should I detail the bottom of the furring on TOP of a gable roof? There are second floor walls that are above an angled roof. I am not sure how to do these. Would appreciate any advice.

Bump? I am thinking on the wall that is above a sloped roof, I would maybe cut 36" long pieces and run them along the bottom (above the sloped roof) with an inch gap between them, so I have nearly a continuous nailer but the gaps allow water to pour out, the slope of the roof will make the water run out...

Bump again for comments?

It's not clear to me what the question is about.

There is a wall that terminates at the top,with a,roof (of,course) but also on the bottom. Roof is at first floor and furring is on second floor wall. Roof at bottom of furrng strip is angled. At the top I am running a nailer along to top angle. At the bottom, the 16oc nature of the strips will have siding end between them. So I need to run a nailer along the,bottom, above the roof. How do I get it to drain effectively.

is the strapping horizontal or vertical?
the basic answer is that you need to flash to the sheathing and down onto the roof.

The furring is vertical, butI'll need a horizontal strip at the bottom (at an angle following the roof slope) to nail the ends of the siding. I have sheathing, 1-1/2 XPS, tyvek, then furring.

That was another question, the flashing. Should the guys cut the tyvek and slide the flashing under the tyvek?

best advice I've heard on flashing is "don't tuck your rain pants into your boots"

Well that's the concept I am proposing. Cutting the Tyvek and slipping the flashing under that - leaving the bottom one or two furring screw un tightened so it is loose enough. No one here does these rain screens so talking to the contractor will just get me an answer on how they want to do it, usually what's easiest for them. I want it done right.

So to confirm, I will have them cut the Tyvek, slip the flashing under the tyvek and furring, then tighten down the furring to essentially hold the flashing in place.

the metal roof guy says they will bend the panels 3-4 inches up the wall. I assume this will also go under the tyvek.

How far (height-wise) from the metal roof should the siding and last furring strip be for clearance? 2 inches, 3 inches, 4 inches?

I'd flash over the strapping, unless you want to cut grooves in it so it will drain. Don't think the distance matters on the top piece, but 4: may be easier to deal with.

I appreciate all the help so far but you lost me. Flash over the furing? the furring would be below the flashing. Rain would run down the tyvek and be behind the flashing. I'm not picturing this.

To explain again, I'm furring a wall that sits above the first story roof and below the second story roof (between two roofs). Both roofs are pitched. I have vertical strapping. At the bottom I want the lapsiding to be nailed along the whole edge, so some lap siding boards do not float freely if their end terminates between two vertical furring strips that are on a sloped roof.

I was going to run a 1x4 along the bottom following the angle of the lower roof and periodically have gaps in it (say 3-4 foot pieces, and leave a gap between the bottom of the vertical strapping so water can run down along the top of the lower angled board and find a break and drip out).

Surfsup, I have visited this thread several times and still can't visualize the situation. Can you maybe provide a drawing? I think that may prompt some helpful responses.

Not sure how to upload a pic to this forum. Let's take two structures: a 2story house with a gable roof and a 1 story garage with a gable roof. The roof on the house has a peak at 25 feet, the garage's peak is at 15 feet. Now push the garage building up against the 2 story home so they connect with the gable roof along the same direction. The resulting exposed wall is a wall 10 feet high with roof above and below it. Both at the top and bottom, the vertical furring strips terminate at an angled roofline. The wall is shaped like two parallelograms like the head of an arrow, like this : ^ At the top AND bottom, some of the lapsiding will terminate between furring strips because of the slope and need something to nail them into.

OH! I get it now. You're worried about any water that somehow gets behind the lap siding finding its way back out if there is a horizontal (or in this case diagonal) nailer along the bottom where the vertical furring strips terminate. You could just place a block wherever you need one so the lap joints aren't hanging out in mid-air. But you may also be concerned about critters, so the continuous nailer may be better with the periodic weep holes you suggested.

So you've got sheathing, Tyvek, then furring strips right? I think maybe Bob was envisioning the Tyvek over the furring? That's why he said flash over the strapping.

Anyway, is the lap siding made of fiber cement? There should be a spec sheet which gives you the distance from the bottom of the siding to a lower course of material.

I said flash the horizontal strapping since he is concerned about bulk water. If bulk water is running down into and will be trapped by the strapping, it needs to be directed out to a drainable place, and flashing is the way to do that.

Jelly, yes! That's what I am talking about. LP Smartside Architectural Lap Siding is what we're doing. The metal roof panels will be bent 3-4" up the wall, and the siding installation shows "minimum 1 inch" from the roofline. So that means the furring will be covering 3 inches of the flashing, yes? The roof will basically be the flashing if I understand. So for those areas, I am waiting for the roofers to roof it first, then come in after. But I don't want to screw through the flashing either. So can the Smartside hang a bit past the furring? I figure with the angle it might hang unsupported 3-4 inches. Or am I worried too much about penetrating the flashing, and just run the lower nailer 1.5" up from the roofline on the flashing and be done with it?!

Right, I know what it's like to be concerned about every drop of water, but keep in mind that your goal is to have all of the water deflected by the outermost layer of the assembly. So IF water gets behind the siding, it shouldn't be that much if you did things right, and the chance of it finding it's way under the Tyvek and into the few screw holes that do go through the flashing is minimal.

Remember there will be a ridge cap on the very top of the lower gable roof assembly. So yes you want that part of the roof in first, and you want those roof panels bent up at the edge, but you still need some kind of flashing over that ridge cap (and under the siding above it) where it meets the rake wall.

I can't find many details that include the rain screen, but if you google "lap siding at rake wall" it brings up some helpful images, but you'll have to visualize the furring strips.

Yes I suppose whether there is furring or just siding, the siding will be nailed through the flashing anyway to some extent. Ok thanks everyone for your attention.