Greetings everyone I had some questions on additional tips to warm up a freezing master bedroom during the winter - I live in Louisiana so we do not see as extreme temps as most people. - Home build 2014 - brick home - North facing bedroom with 4 large windows three on one wall one on another - builder grade windows made from GA - high 13ft I am assuming vaulted ceilings in the bedroom - looks like blown insulation was done correctly - central air/heat main is on the other side of the house approx 2300sq ft heated. Bedroom stays ungodly cold 40-59f near the windows but we cannot run heat very long as the kids room closer to hvac get exremely hot fast. I am having an hvac guy come out to see if he can rebalance everything. First issue I noticed are the lower quality builder grade windows these are double pane aluminum and they condensate extremely bad with the condensation coming from the aluminum frame with no wall condensation. Windows have been re-caulked inside and out again but I can still feel extreme drafts coming through. I decided to replace all four windows with nt window presidential series triple pane. I understand this will not eliminate condensation but we have started leaving the bathroom vents on, placed damprid near windowsetc and that seems to have helped with the moisture issues. My question is should I have an insulation inspection done to see if the wall facing north can be insulated better? What other tips does everyone have for a north facing bedroom that gets zero sunlight, high vaulted ceilings and four giant windows? Thanks.

Did anyone accomplish a proper room-by-room heat loss analysis for this building before designing the HVAC system? Does this master bedroom also get too hot in the summer? A small room having many large windows separated from the rest of house will have a significantly higher required cooling/heating load than the rest of the house. Also having a high ceiling and larger volume doesn't help either. Having better windows would have helped, but you really need the capability of getting more heat into that room. So first see if the existing heating system can be better balanced to accomplish this. Than perhaps consider adding a separate supplemental heating system (e.g., baseboard or mini split) for this master bedroom.

The furthest room on the ducts often gets short-changed when the furnace is ridiculously oversized for the actual load (which is unfortunately at least half the time.)

Doored off rooms that don't have dedicated return registers can also suffer from low-flow. That's correctable by installing jump ducts or transom-returns or utilizing a partition wall's stud bay as a jump duct.

Triple-panes are a very expensive solution here, only "worth it" on an otherwise code-min house for very cold climates. (Got a ZIP code?) In most US locations a U-0.25-U-0.32 double pane is enough to deal with comfort issues. If a heat load calculation shows a design heat load for that room to be above 5000 BTU/hr a cold-climate half-ton or 3/4 ton ductless mini-split heat pump would cost a lot less than four large triple-panes, assuming re-working the ductwork requires too much demolition.

A mini-split may or may not be more expensive than running a length of fin-tube baseboard operating off the water heater, but it sure provides a lot more cooling than a baseboard micro zone!

It's always worth assessing the quality of the air sealing and insulation when rooms are running cold. It's also worth assessing the air tightness of the ducts.

BTW: The verb you're looking for is "condense", not "condensate". The word "condensate" is a noun, referring to a condensed liquid. Thus a window can't condensate, but it can have condensate forming on the glass or frame.

The house was new when we purchased and unfortunately everything was already designed by the builders including the HVAC. My zip code is 70769 and I do agree the triple pane may be a bit over kill but all windows are already low e double pane aluminum. The issue with these GA (owned by MI) windows are several have already had broken seals and according to the documentation they do not have any type of thermal barrier installed. These windows are literally the cheapest aluminium GA makes plus the difference in price single vs dual was nominal. I received several quotes on the HVAC ranging from 3-5k the high end gets a dedicated united with an additional thermostat.. adjusted the damper's going to the kids room and that seems to have warmed our room up somewhat.

Sorry I meant to say "double vs triple" price was nominal.

Thanks for the tips on condensate vs condensation mom are you on these forums? .. joking my mother was an English professor so you see how far that got me.

I agree that aluminum frame windows need to go, but save your money, you don't need triple pane.
I recommend hiring an energy audit to blower door test the home and watch what is happening with a thermal camera. That way you can rule out building enclosure issues. While it sounds likely that HVAC is at least part of the problem, it may be HVAC only, there is no way of knowing without the audit.

I have used one of these in this situation if money and a quick fix is needed.

http://www.suncourt.com/product/HC500-W

Same as newboston. Had the same situation in my house with family room on the north end of the house as well as the last run from the furnace. Granger 8" in line blower with a speed control did the trick. Little bit of wiring to tie in to the furnace blower but pretty simple. I think it cost about $80. As far as the windows the cheapest solution for me has been to install interior storm panels. Not sure if they are available in Lousianna. One system used plexi with magnetic tape that mounted on the window trim. I checked and there seems to be a similar sytem on the web.

The starting point is to figure out if the original ducts are tight, have dedicated returns and no obstructions. Even with triple pane windows if the room don't have a dedicated return path resulting in no or low flow, the room will stay cold (unless you crack some windows to provide a better return path using "the great outdoors", but that may be counterproductive too.)

Triple panes would be a major waste of money in Louisiana. If you're replacing the windows no matter what, buy a better double pane. Not all low-E double panes are alike (far from it!) A better-grade double pane designed for cooler climates than yours is more than adequate, with the low-E tuned for high solar gain, low loss. A double low-E double-pane glazed with Cardinal LoE 180 + i89 glass (or similar) with argon fill will even beat many triple-panes, at a lower price point. If it's a north facing window the increased solar gain isn't going to affect the cooling load by very much (it will a little, but not enough to care about), but the wintertime solar gain (even from bright skies, not direct sun) and low loss will help heat the room. Anderson's Low-E / Low-E4 glass is exactly this type of glazing.

https://www.andersenwindows.com/windows-and-doors/options-and-accessories/glass-options/

The second low-E coating on surface #4 reflects heat back into the room, and despite a lower temp air film right at the window (since the heat is reflected rather than absorbed) it's generally more comfortable, reflecting your body heat right back at you. In much much colder climates that type of double pane glass results in copious window condensation when it's colder than -15F outside. (Thats 15F below zero.) If it ever gets that cold in Louisiana it'll be time to buy some ice skates 'cuz hell is freezing over! Pella has high solar gain double low-E options too, as well as several smaller northern US window manufacturers. I'm sure they're not even on the radar of your local window sources in LA, but this stuff can usually be ordered direct from small manufacturers, or through the distributors of the bigger manufacturers. You just need to know that it exists and how to order it.

But even a U-0.28-ish single low-E, SHGC >30 type window would be a huge improvement over junky U-0.40-ish aluminum framed windows.

Cardinal Glass owns almost all the Low E patents.

They supply the window manufactures with the glass inserts.

Anderson, Pella, and all the others just rename it even though it is all coming from the same place and have the same coating options.

Changing the number coatings and the locations of the coatings on the glass pains (as Dana1 stated) in the insert is what changes how the glass reacts to the movement of heat and light.

Let me know if I am wrong but this is how it is explained to me when I visited a window plant to see their manufacturing process.

How about leaving the bedroom door open?

The problem is the massive heat loss from the large windows on the window walls. Unless there are several duct grills around the perimeter of the window walls providing sufficient heat flow, there will not be sufficient heat flow to that area of the room. Cardinal 180 is our favorite passive solar glazing for our southern OR area, but you do have to be careful about using it in very cold climates because of condensation issues.

Posted By sailawayrb on 17 Jan 2019 03:34 PM
The problem is the massive heat loss from the large windows on the window walls. Unless there are several duct grills around the perimeter of the window walls providing sufficient heat flow, there will not be sufficient heat flow to that area of the room. Cardinal 180 is our favorite passive solar glazing for our southern OR area, but you do have to be careful about using it in very cold climates because of condensation issues.

In southern Louisiana terms southern Oregon would be included in the "...very cold climates..." description. :-)

The Cardinal 180 + i89 is a pretty good glass for just about any climate south of the middle of D.O.E. climate zone 6. It's would be fairly pricey glass for the average house & room in Louisiana, but this isn't an average room- it's addressing a real comfort problem.

Though expensive compared to an IRC code-mi (zone 2) U0.40 type window, it's on the cheap side compared to any triple-pane. An argon filled Cardinal 180 + i89 insulated glass unit has a center-glass U-factor of about U0.20 - U0.22, half the heat loss of a U0.40 code-min low-E window, and better than many triple-panes costing more.

Yes, southern OR is very cold compared to southern Louisiana! Even so, it would still be very hard to make a ROI case for triple-pane windows in southern Oregon or southern Louisiana. It is far better to spend your money improving the building envelope so it can be considered well-insulated and well-sealed for the location (i.e., target at LEAST current code minimum).

From a purely window performance perspective, the best advice is to avoid windows on the west wall altogether (excessive late afternoon heat gain), avoid or minimize windows on the east and north walls (excessive heat loss), and properly size and locate windows on the south wall relative to a properly sized roof overhang to generate solar heat gain close to but without exceeding the expected monthly Btu/hour heat loss. Of course, you ideally begin by orienting the house so the south wall actually faces true south.

However, if you already have a house that isn’t oriented correctly with over-sized windows in bad locations, you just do the best that you can and learn from the experience.

My wife is a nurse so leaving the door open to the bedroom with my grand daughter and daughter now living with us plus two dogs and my 10 year old she would never get sleep. I had several HVAC techs come out and they all said the same thing. I have a 5 ton unit that has a single return that is sized for a 3 ton. The return is on the other end of the house from our master bedroom. The supply is undersized as well and they recommend replacing the supply as they can see rust building up and hear the insulation falling.. this is bad for a 5 year old unit i assume. This is causing condensation buildup inside the unit and making the supply sweat. They wanted to initially place the return in the master but with the cathedral ceilings that wasn't an option, mounting it right outside the bedroom would be the only other option. I just woke up and it is 4:35am cst here windows are sweating so bad it's pooling again on the frames,the temp in bedroom is 51f I guess my next step would be to - add another return - resize/replace supply - ducts are undersized going to master - I am still replacing these windows with triple pane nt windows This week I caulked inside windows and out, placed damprid in each window, ran dehumidier until it was around 45%, every runs fan during and 15 minutes after showers.. I have a 1/2 inch air gap in the master bedroom door but not having a return in the room concerns me as those are the largest rooms in the house. The new return will be right outside the master so would it help if I added one of those louvered panels to the bottom of the door? again thanks for all of the help here.. Thanks.

I wish I had paid more attention to the hvac in this house before we purchased it but I just didn't know, I honestly still don't understand how everything works. My wife's uncle built our last home and I know we had good premium vinyl windows, returns in every room and two 3 ton units and I never had these types of issues. We had a day to find a new house 5 years ago as we relocated for her work and thought since this was a new home we would have less issues.. we have spent thousands fixing drainage issues in the yard, I have a leaking dormer in the attic as of yesterday so I will need to get that fixed, hvac issues, etc..

Every HVAC tech starts out wanting to place the return in the master and when they see those 3 level vaulted ceilings they change their mind and want to put it on the outside of the door in a nook type area next to a storage closet... I guess I could push harder on the hvac guys and ask them to find a way to get a return in the bedroom or add a louvered panel to the bottom of the door.. I assume if everyone intends on keeping their doors shut adding the louvered panels to every door wouldn't hurt either..

sorry for ranting on this.. even if I go with a better quality vinyl window single or double one hvac guy stated unless I get air moving the condensation will move from the frames of the aluminum to the walls so I am at a loss to the fix.. even though the return will be right outside the bedroom door and if I add a louvered panel or a Jump duct? I don't think there will be enough air circulated..

A new HVAC return outside the door does nothing if you keep the door closed. 1/2" space under the door is completely inadequate for return air on a decent sized room with lots of windows. What about putting return air grilles in the header space above the door?

Is your roof built with trusses? If so, the headers over interior doors typically aren't load bearing and typically consist of nothing more than two (2) 2x4's layed flat above the door with cripple studs spaced at 16" on-center to support the drywall. You can cut this out with a sawzall and install a 12" high x 30" wide grille (one on each side of the wall above the door). I would also cut ~1" off the bottom of the door to give you ~1-1/2" under the door for return of the cold air layer right at the floor level. You can't supply air to the room if you can't get the air back to the air handler.

Is there a way to increase the size of your existing unit return? A 5-ton unit should be moving around 2000 CFM airflow (400 CFM / ton). Rule-of-thumb says your return grille area should be sized for 2 CFM / sq inch of return (gross). A typical single 20" x 25" return grill is 500 sq in and is good for 1000 CFM or 2.5 tons. So with a 5 ton unit, you need two (2) 20" x 25" return grilles.

If that doesn't fix it, then you likely have undersized supply ducts to the master bedroom. My experience has been that contractors go with the smallest size duct they can get away with. On long runs, duct friction losses result in inadequate supply to the room. Is your duct work rigid metal duct with outer insulation or is it flex duct? Flex duct has much higher friction losses than rigid metal duct.

I have one 20 x 30 x 1 return for the 5 ton unit for 2283 heated. The current return is in a hall the kids rooms are in on the other side of the house. I would be worried about noise placing a grill above the door waking my wife up .. I did crawl up in the attic this morning and see a possible way to install another return inside the bedroom on the bottom level of the vaulted ceiling this would be one wall opposite the two supply vents.. I was going to ask the hvac guy about this tomorrow. I plan on shaving a little more off the door it has 1/2 gap only.. The ducts are undersized going the master and I had them quote increasing the two supply vents.. thanks again for all of the tips.. as you can tell I am pretty clueless about this stuff.

Why not install a single zone mini-split wall mounted to climate control only your bedroom added bonus is you can have the room cooler are warmer without heating, or cooling the living room as well. They have models that actually conceal the units as if a piece of art.

https://www.pinterest.com/GizellaBooChin/mini-split/

I live in New Orleans and experience the same feeling you have with my 1960 non-insulated aluminum windows acting flowing cold air directly onto me when sitting on the couch, typically in new construction with large picture or storefront glass there is ductwork that is installed directly over the window area to act as an air curtain not to the extreme like when you walk into CVS and your hair gets messed up from the downdraft. I say your hair as mine left me a long time ago before they had GPS so it could find north I guess .

As far as the cross over grill do a flex duct return with duct traveling over the door down to a ceiling register and this provides a sound barrier. This is a feature I included in all of my homes as the back bedroom doors remained closed all the time for most of the day creating that stale smell (mold) you find in the guest room.

https://www.google.com/search?newwindow=1&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS740US740&q=ducted+crossover+grill+image&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiWnfrAmZTgAhUO1qwKHf_aAjUQ7Al6BAgEECE&biw=896&bih=465