Wall Assembly Crit
Last Post 23 Mar 2021 03:53 PM by sailawayrb. 2 Replies.
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kjpnUser is Offline
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23 Mar 2021 05:21 AM

Hello,

I’m working on a home design and wanted to ask for any constructive comments the community might have. We are looking to build a very well-insulated envelope with a straightforward process that most building crews could implement. Cost is not the primary factor, insulation-value and durability is. This is in climate zone 5.

I’ve attached my first pass at a shingle roof (RF-1) and stucco wall (PL-1). The basic concept I am working with is that the exterior Zip sheathing on walls/roof is our water/air barrier that will dry to the exterior. The interior side of sheathing and framing would be coated in a generous pass of closed-cell spray foam, creating an impermeable air layer. This prevents the condensation issue of interior vapor reaching the exterior sheathing. Extra space in the cavity would be filled with readily available batt insulation.

Walls get Zip R12-Sheathing for the thermal break. The roof gets a layer of rigid foam on the interior side for a thermal break. I looked at options for applying foam to the roof exterior (nailbase, for ex.) but I thought it would be simple and hard to mess up the continuous seal between the Zip R wall sheathing and Zip roof sheathing if I kept it exposed. Would it be problematic to layer additional rigid insulation on the exterior roof sheathing as it would inhibit drying?

I’ve attached some detail drawings showing what I currently have.

Thank you!!!


Attachment: Detail_2.pdf

newbostonconstUser is Offline
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23 Mar 2021 09:57 AM
You seem to have double layers of low permeability layers in the roof (xps and closed cell foam with bat installation in between). I am starting to see less and less use of closed cell foam, I think installers are going away from it because of the curing problem if not installed right. Might want to search it.

R55 wall seems a little much. There is a point of diminishing returns on insulation.

With your complex design and many steps to build it and your efficiency goal, I see ICF as a better option for you. Your building zone you are in also greatly benefits from the thermal mass in ICF. Icf also naturally air seals itself, and is the strongest way to do things.

I live in lower Michigan and for a third of the year I don't run the heat or AC. I turned off the heat in our house 2 weeks ago and we have still been in the 20's at night.

I am very excited for you, I see the effort you are putting in and know it will turn out great in the end. Have a good day.


"Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlins
sailawayrbUser is Offline
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23 Mar 2021 03:53 PM
I would also recommend ICF, especially when you live in a diurnal climate and can significantly benefit from its thermal mass effect. I would also recommend carefully placing and sizing windows/roof overhang so windows provide heat in the cold months but don't generate any heat in the warm/hot months...passive solar cooling/heating design features. And if you are planning to do some non-conventional building assembly that has not already been time proven to work well, consider doing this analysis first:

https://www.borstengineeringconstruction.com/Building_Assembly_Moisture_Analysis_Calculator.html


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