Randy, I'm sure you could also find an example of a poor-performing casement window and compare it to a well-performing tilt-turn window. In other words there is nothing inherent about a tilt-turn design that would give it poor air infiltration rates. The opposite is actually true - the design delivers very good air infiltration values. One may however find a less than satisfactory manufacturer, but that's true of any kind of window.

I am familiar with many of the imported Tilt/Turn windows and I know of none that claim an air infiltration rating of .003. I am also skeptical because labs in this country will typically report readings of less than .01 cfm as "<.01" because the test equipment is not considered to be accurate enough to measure accurately below that threshhold.

You are being quoted a result based in cubic "meters" (the European Standard of Measure) and not cubic feet (U.S. Standard of Measure - see this link) . That is the standard of measure they use in the EU. If you do the math, there are 34.32 cubic feet in a cubic meter versus 1 in a cubic foot. If you multiply the .003*34.32, you will then convert to the standard measure (U.S.) of .102 CFM per square foot of sash. Anyone that claims they have a tilt/turn that passed at .003, demand a copy of the test report. Or acknowledgement of that value in a nationally recognized registry like Energy Star or NFRC.org.

Actually, the only thing that does matter is the actual referenced value the specific window has achieved in certified, independent testing. Demand documentation, then do the comparison. Just based on my over 12 years expereince in the Fenestration industry and seeing the results from hundreds of test reports on differing products, I can tell you that the relationship will hold of hung windows allowing more air infiltration than outswing casements and inswing/Tilt Turns allowing more air infiltration that outswing casements. I am not making a value judgement because each of the different styles has a selection criteria that encompasses a wide range of parameters,but the mechanics of these windows are different and thus, air infiltration values are different.

The reality is that air infiltration rates for hung and inswinging windows will differ becasue a hung window operates by friction fit. Making the fit tighter would destroy its marketability (too hard to operate). Likewise, both inswing and outswing operate on pressure fit against the gasket, with an outswinging casement the wind pressure actually presses harder on the gasket making a slightly tighter seal while the opposite will be true with a tilt/turn window that swings to the interior.

Randy,

Thanks for a clear explanation!  I would not have thought of how the mechanical differences would effect the infiltration rates.

Larry

In the links that I referenced you will find a tilt/turn window with an air infiltration rating of .003 CFM/sqft, a tilt/turn with a rating of <.01 CFM/sqft, and a tilt/turn with a rating of <.1 CFM/sqft.  I included these three examples specifically to show variations.   All of these ratings were determined by independent laboratories and all of the links include references to the actual test requirements/procedures and reports.

None of these three window companies sell a European import window (although the design and some components of the window system could be of Euro origin), and while they would be considered regional companies, all of them are readily available in North America. 

In no way am I endorsing any of these companies, nor am I suggesting that one company is better than another, I am simply linking them here so that people who have an interest in this subject can take a look at actual perfromance numbers for themselves rather than relying on third-party discussions of these issues.  And, if anyone would like to research them further, there are more window companies out there who offer tilt/turns at each of the rating levels that I linked. 

The argument that an outswing casement must have superior air infiltration numbers simply because it opens and closes to the exterior simply isn't valid.   The mechanics of the window system, the level of individual component design as well as the quality of the construction and of the materials used in the construction are much more important than whether the window opens in or out.  

Quality tilt/turn windows can have an exceptionally tight air and water seal because they have a multi-point locking system that engages the sash to the frame on all four sides of the sash.  A casement engages the sash to the frame on only one of the four edges and uses a much simpler locking system do do so.   

Tilt/turns have not fully caught on in North America because they tend to be a bit more expensive than other styles and because few North American's even know what they are.  It is not an energy perfromance issue.  

http://www.innotech-windows.com/pdfs/InnonovaAWStestsummary1.5.pdf
http://www.efcocorp.com/products/arm/ctd_web/arch_guides/1325%20Tilt%20Turn.pdf
http://www.keystone-industries.com/mailplay36.html

  

I was not making the case that an outswing casement "must" have a lower air infiltration rating.  To be clear, what I am stating is that design considerations include marketing considerations i.e. cost, usability, ease of operation, etc.  Actually, you can find doors and windows that will resist water and wind to several thousand pounds of pressure per square "inch"   - they are called "hatches" on the sub. But their cost and their more complicated method of operation exclude them from the residential market i,e, design trade-off.

If there are now T/T with these values, then one should check carefully if this was achieved at the expense of a window more difficult to close and latch, or a window higher in cost to produce than a mechanically similar units testing at .01 or .3.  Again, these are finite considerations I will grant you and most consumers will not analyze to this point unless ther Rep they are working with can guide them through the trade-offs.

If you look at the Innotech Download for the T/T it states a U-value of .29  and   the AI of .003.  Kudos for them on achieving this value.   When you compare to  a BiltBest  casement with an AI of .01 and a U-Value of .35, the Innotech is performing better.  This is primarily due to the fact that it is vinyl versus aluminum clad wood.  Analyzing the AI only increases the differences between them. 

However, consumer decisions are not made in a vacuum, there are emotional considerations that shape the decision in the end so the comparison strictly on the numbers is not always enough.  With Aluminum clas there are now Hundreds" of standard colors and "thousands" of optional ones.You cannot get that with vinyl.  This does not make the vinyl window inferior or superior all of that is in the eyes of the beholder. 

My point being if you are building a home you intend to live in for 20 years, the only way to truly caluulate the lifecycle cost is to include understanding the effects of AI.  As mentioned, the Aluminum clad window will be lowr in (installed) price.  The advantage to analyzing the full life-cycle costs including AI and the HVAC installed capital costs as impacted by AI, and U-vale will actually help balance in the vinyl windows favor.  At this point what will ultimately resolve the consumers decision will be his "gut", his "emotion", which window makes him happiest.  And if he considers these factors across the continuum, he will likely retain his satisfaction by not erring in selecting and then finding out that the other "costs" he will incur in his selection outweigh his "perceived value" upon the intial selection.  Know thy customer and always validate his feelings - and then work to clarify them.

I had one specific project that I sold in Colorado.  We were being considered against Wilmar.  Wilmar makes a very good window and they were 20% less than my custom package (about 80,000.00).  I convinced the onwers to visit our factory and see how we built the windows.  Our performance values were not as high as Loewen's.  They achieved a higher U-Vaule by not returning the copper behid the Weatherstrip leaving an unsightly strip of primed wood exposed behing the WS.  The clients actually brought a Wilmar sample with them.   In a five minute comparison of my sample versus theirs, I g\had ther order and the client actually added a glazing package for an additional $30,000.  So it is a prime example that numbers only work to confim satisfaction and perceived value in a purchasing decision although it certainly could have gone the other way.

I have never seen Innotechs results, so I will stand corrected, but as you will note among the three that you cite, it is the only one with a vaule that low.  A vaule of .01 is very impressive for a tilt/turn (efco links are all dead).  What I stated was that , in "general", you will see most Tilt/Turns posting AI values in the .3 range, look around the internet and you will see that to be the case.

Tilt/Turns have not caught on here that well for a few reasons.

• In Europe, with every narrow streets, outswings are problematic. In this country, not such a problem and people do not like the intrusion on the interio traffic flow and furniture layouts that this imposes.
• Here, people are used to screens.  Tilt/Turns impose an exterior fixed screen (have to remove from a ladder) or a very expensive and high maintenance exterior roll screen. 
• Cost of a Tilt/Turn will run 2.5 to 3 times the cost of a more standard OS American Style casement.

I have sold Tilt/Turns, but it composed only about 3% of the sales I made compared to outswing multi-point locking, European style windows.  And if you look around, you will find that in the last few years, the European manufacturers have added outswings to there product offerings to better compete in the US market.  I also doubt seriously that Innotech could achieve that AI figure with a wood window.

You may want to check out Jeld-Wen's pricing via Home Depot. We used their Caradco line (it may be superceded now) in 2006 in our ICF home. We have a combo of casements and awning. We chose to go woth solid wood (no cladding) because we wanted the option of changing colors and didn't want to deal with dents.  With high-tech coating products such as Sherwin William Duration, painting is no longer the "every few years" hassle it once was.

In the link below, the clerestory and ground-level are awning, the bedroom is a casement, and the peacocks were hungry.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v72/Billusa99/?action=view¤t=DSCN2269-a.jpg

Has anyone used a combination of double hung and casements in a home?

Our new house will have a walk-out basement, effectively two storeys at the back.

I was thinking about using double hung next to the door leading to the deck, in the master bath (for aesthetics), for the main front window (same reason) and at ground level where people may be walking next to the house.

I'm just wondering if having both styles of window in the house will look odd.

I also saw your other entry with the 3d graphic.
Generally , I would only mix window types for a specific use, such as awning over a bath, or above cabinets (say next to a firelpace in a traditional craftsman home) or a specialty area, a bank of windows in a sunroom. One type or another should be the predominant type for the house with the others used carefully. Craftsman can use either one, though without proper muntin bars, they look like blank eyes in the facade. I would not mix the types if they are close to the same size.

If you are closer than 24" to the ground, use tempered glass. Of the basic window types, casements give you the biggest opening for the window size, and the tightest closing. Near a deck or walkway, watch out for them opening into the walking areas. Try to align windows in the facace for som sort of rational appearance, and mix sizes for a little quirky appearance. Make sure you follow code minimum opening clearances for bedrooms. And consider good cross ventilation in layong them out in a room.

I have used Marvin's Integrity line with great sucess. Their casements have a .29 U-value, very fast delivery and fiberglass exterior (or whole unit) instead of PVC. It is more stable and environmentally friendly than vinyl (PVC).

HTH

DallasBill says: "In the link below, the clerestory and ground-level are awning, the bedroom is a casement, and the peacocks were hungry."

How do you operate the awning windows used in the clerestory?  Are the operators such that you can reach them (perhaps with a pole) from floor level or do you have to get a ladder to open and close them?  I've been warned against any that have motor driven openers.

We just pull a dining room chair over and stand on it.  Also, there are not an enormous number of days in Dallas when one has the windows open to begin with. 

All of them open.  But in hind site, I would have done every second one (they are on both sides of the house) and we would have got a wee bit better "home tightness" at a bit less cost.

In a high clerestory, you don't have access unless there is a motor or a special pole (check with the manufacturer) which is generally difficult to use. Save the money and use fixed units unless you can reach them. Or ahve a dedicated stool to stand on if they are like Bills.
If you really want the ventilation aspect, consider an operable skylight, or better yet, plan your standard windows to take advantage of the cross breezes. one good thing with double hungs is you can open the top a few inches to allow ventilation.

Nice house, DallasBill. I like the Rupunzel balcony/dormer.

Rupunzel balcony - I LOVE it!  We'll use it from now on since that's the guest bedroom!  It fits in with what we call our home -- Villa Valium.

Since this is a green forum one caution should be made on skylights and it's this: there's nothing like a big hole in your roof, no matter how many layers of glazing and stripping you have, to negate a lot of that other work you already did.  ;-)

When we do open those windows we get huge air movement because the high ones on the other side, and the low ones in front, create a lot of area for air to fall inside, on its way out again.