Yes I know it's when warm moist air meets cold, like a cold beer in a bar, but what would cause excessive condensation? I have that problem right now, to the point that a white fungus is growing on the vinly frames, the wood doors are starting to mold, and even the wood doors themselves have condensation (the panels of the door where the wood is thinnest develop condensation). I've never seen wood have condensation on it!!! So, does condensation form more or less when a draft is present?? Could it just be my inside air is extra humid? Was I sold junk windows (Okna brand) by a snake oil salesmen?

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/goik99c21s8n6gx/AACS6S28Z-RXD53dBtC8JHkKa?dl=0

Here's a link to some photos. In the two of the doors, I'm pointing out a stain caused by a drip running down the door from condensation which is also staining the threshold. The other door pic is showing the black mold staining on the stops. Earlier in the day I whiped off some surface mold with a rag.

The windows you can see the condensation all over the frames and locks. These frames are foam filled, or at least they should be.

I also notice air leakage at the top corners of the lower sash. I'm sure this is typical of double hung windows but it seems like too much leakage for the air tightness ratings I was shown.

It's possible all of the above and plus some.

It's possible the windows are just junk. Possibly the frames aren't actually insulated properly.
It's possible that they were installed badly.
It's possible sill wasn't properly prepared. So you have water sitting under the sash, being soaked through the wood via capillary action.
It's possible that the windows weren't air sealed properly.
It's possible you have other air and water leaks in the wall assembly itself.
It's also possible that your home's ambient humidity is just too high.

From the look of the pictures. The windows appear to be double-pane.
The seals appear to have completely failed (or never worked in the first place).
You're probably going to need to at least pop the trim and inspect around the window for air sealing. You may need to open the walls (if you're getting BLACK MOLD, you NEED to chase this down before the stuff makes you sick) and inspect to see if it's just air infiltration and sealing, or if you have a larger water problem in the wall.
Put your hand on the wall itself in several places. Are there any NOTICEABLE cold spots (compared to the rest of the wall)?

I installed the windows myself, and can foamed them in, so I know it was done right.

The mold is only on the lower stops of my back french door. What's strange is the front door has condensation on the wood. That makes me think the problem is the humidity and not the windows (I'm hopefully that's the case, don't need the headache of a lawsuit or something). The back door has condensation around the perimeter beading up, while the windows have more of a frost but only at the bottom.

Both door I replaced the single pane glass with double pane and used silicone to seal them in. That's how I've done it dozens of other times on single pane glass without any issues

I should also mention I'm in Western NY

Insulated glass units with metal spacers are colder around edges than at center glass, which can result in substantially more condensation at the edges of the sash than in the middle.

Leakage at the weather stripping at doors & windows can cool down the perimeter enough to cause condenstation if the room humidity is high.

In general you're looking at the symptoms high indoor humidity, which can usually be relieved by increasing the background ventilation rate. Buy a $10 AcuRite humidity monitor, and report back what the average temperature & RH is in your house, and the outdoor temp when the condensation is building.

I happen to get a hydrometer today, it's currently reading like 63 or 65%. Indoor the thermostat is set to 70F. We heat with in floor radiant so I assume that would not dry out the air like forced air might.

Outdoor temps have been as low as the teens and into the 40s the past month. Today it's in the 20s and it's there. It's worse when it's colder, but the only time I've noticed the condensation gone on the windows is when they have been in direct sunlight.

Dana- you are right about my door glass - looks like aluminum spacers in there. .

I should have my wood stove hooked up by the weekend and that should help me dry it out. What's an ideal humidity level?

I try to maintain 50% humidity year around for a health reasons with my son. I bet most would say that is high. I try also to keep it consistent year around to minimize wood expansion and contraction thus minimizing drywall cracking and nail pops.

I would look for moisture getting into the house somewhere else. I had a friend that we found a pin hole leak in a water line that cause similar issues to yours. A thermal camera is a great tool to find these type problems. Moisture at this time of year shows there is something else wrong. Outside temp of 60 degrees or less will only be pulling moisture out of your house.

Is your humidifier on your furnace stuck on? Air leakage getting into your house would only make things better at this time of year. Good luck.

Its a log home and I still hear them cracking and drying out. So I think the moisture in the logs is being released into the house.

That's your answer to your problem. " it's currently reading like 63 or 65%. Indoor the thermostat is set to 70F."

That's indoor humidity levels are WAY TOO HIGH. Another 5% of humidity or a drop in indoor temps and you will achieve 100% dew point. When humidity % matches temperatures, the air is so moisture saturated that it cannot hold any more moisture.

During winter/cold weather, indoor humidity levels should be in the low 40% range. Get a dehumidifier. Not an energy penalty as it will put out indoor heat during winter.

Well that should be a n easy fix. Thanks everyone.