House inside metal building
Last Post 21 Jan 2021 01:00 PM by newbostonconst. 3 Replies.
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PhlatbustedUser is Offline
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28 Feb 2019 07:58 AM
New Member Old Reader I want to build a 30 x 30 man cave house inside the end of one third of my existing 30 x 90 Varco Pruden uninsulated commercial metal building with a 12 foot eve. I am located in the warm and humid air south of Houston, TX 1 mile from beautiful Galveston Bay and the Kemah Boardwalk in zone 2, where it gets very hot and humid about half of the year. It also gets cold and wet half of the year. I would like to frame my new man cave house using Advanced Framing ( https://www.apawood.org/data/sharedfiles/documents/m400.pdf ) and Engineered Wood Products. The building was originally built for aquaculture and the concrete floor inside the building has a floor drain down the middle of the 90 foot length of the building (4 1/4" slope from each side of the 30' width of the building). Due to this sloped floor I plan to build a subfloor with floor trusses on top of the concrete and over the floor drain to obtain a level floor and to allow use of the existing sewer drains at the perimeter (they were not installed for proper toilet placement) and allow space to run the drain-waste-vent pipes for the new man cave house plumbing. The building was originally built with the white vinyl insulation sandwiched between the PRB metal exterior panels and the girts and purlins but the rats got to it (no chicken wire) and the insulation turned into a nightmare. Most of it has been cut away and tedious time spent removing the insulation between the channels of the panels and against the purling and girts to keep remnants from falling constantly and littering the building. Short of removing every screw from every panel on all sides and roof most of the insulation is now gone. I plan to install a foil perforated double sided radiant barrier below the purlins and around the middle of the 8 1/4" girts using bamboo ( I have a grove of it growing) furring strips, mule tape pulled tight for under roof support. I would like any advice on the layers of the floor system. starting at the concrete. I would like any advice on sealing the concrete, vapor barrier, insulation, decking and final floor of vinyl planking. I am looking for experienced help with the exact layers and how to install properly before I start messing things up. I do not know if the building was built with a vapor barrier under the concrete but the concrete does change color (appears moist) with the weather. The building is not conditioned (no heat, ac or fans) and lots of ambient air flows everywhere as most uninsulated nonconditioned commercial metal buildings are designed to air leak like a sieve. . I am trying to decide on the best wall system. One wall system I have considered is (starting from the inside of the new man cave house going out) latex paint on 1/2" finished plywood for interior wall (I do not care for sheetrock) 2 x 6 studs with rock wool bats, 1/2" OSB, 1" double faced poly iso foam board for thermal break - glued, taped and foamed for air seal. This wall then gets raised up to fit against the inside edge of the metal girt. I plan to attach to the metal girts in a few select locations. Before the wall goes up half way inside the metal girt I plan to put the double sided perforated foil radiant barrier using furring strips leaving a large air gap both between the foam board (outside wall of new house) and the existing outside external metal siding (PBR Panel) of the building. I plan on a typical 8' ceiling that is topped flat with plywood to use for storage and electrical mechanical for the house. I plan to continue the radiant barrier up to the bottom of the metal building roof purlins (with furring strips for air gap and mule tape for support and stop short of the 10' ridge vent in the middle apex of the building to allow air to flow freely as it does now. I may not even staple the radiant barrier if not necessary because the roof is about 20 years old and I have been taking care of a few leaks by spot fixing with polyurethane and fiberglass mesh. It has a few years left before I have to do a new roof when I will go on top of existing with insulation and new standing seam metal on metal roof hugger roof. The space between the top of my new ceiling and the metal roof panels is my attic. No new roof needed for the new man cave house. Will the foil faced poly iso be an improvement or a problem with the other radiant foil barrier? I believe iso is a vapor retarder and I am concerned about a possible vapor trap between the faced foam board and the other perforated foil radiant barrier. Are two radiant barriers better than one in this configuration? Any help regarding radiant barriers, insulation, floor system, wall system and advanced framing would be greatly appreciated. I realize these questions are best to be asked of a professional builder, architect or thermal engineer. If you know of a local consultant or someone that can help guide me and or create plans that you would recommend (preferably in my area but not neccessary) I would greatly appreciate a reference.
cmkavalaUser is Offline
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28 Feb 2019 12:24 PM
Permatherm SIPs are perfect for this use already finished inside and out, made with UDSA approved skins...I have a SIP builder in Beaumont that I would be glad to introduce you to , he has done similar projects and has a Permatherm building under construction rightnow
Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
jphnaUser is Offline
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21 Jan 2021 03:47 AM
Metal building homes are a smart and cost-effective alternative to traditional home construction. If you're concerned a steel home might feel cold or impersonal, don't worry. The living quarters of a steel building can be customized to look and feel just like a traditional home.
newbostonconstUser is Offline
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21 Jan 2021 01:00 PM
I do like the Barndominium concept.....it is cool and doable....and cheap with lots of solar area.
"Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlins
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