Energy Efficient Alternative to 40 Watt (F40) T12 Fluorescent Bulbs?
Last Post 26 Apr 2013 08:49 PM by jonr. 26 Replies.
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Dana1User is Offline
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11 Apr 2013 04:52 PM
At 200lm/w it's getting pretty high up toward the theoretical maximum!

The new 6W Cree sorta-A-bulb thingy is only ~75lm/W, which though shy of the ~91lm/w for the 10W Philips L-Prize, but at a sub-$10 market entry price it's not a bad price/performance threshold. (Street price on the L-prize winner is still north of $25.)  Color rendering on the 6W Cree isn't nearly as nice as the L-Prize bulbs though, at CRI 80 vs. CRI 93.

I expect by the time my CFLs & cold cathodes burn out it might be hard to find CFLs on the shelf.  Better LEDs have such substantial lifecycles the notion that lights ever needed sockets for ease of replacement may seem pretty archaic in a decade or two.  Why would you ever replace it, unless you hated the color-temperature?  LEDs will run cooler and will have a longer lifecycle if integrated into the fixture rather than self-ballstet, stuck on a century old heat-isolating Edison base design more suited to the abyssmal-efficiency short-lifespan 19th century lighting technology that some still find themselves attracted to like moths to flames.
BadgerBoilerMNUser is Offline
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11 Apr 2013 07:53 PM
OK rocket-man,

I just burned by finger on the wood stove, but walked up the stairs under the "color" of LED foot lights. I just replace some tube and knob fixtures in the cellar, circa 1921, and feeling pretty good about myself. Thanks.

Most humans are a backward and slow-moving race. You can go-round them, but will find yourself alone fore long...

BTW, how many Norwegians does it take to screw in a thermionic diode?
MA<br>www.badgerboilerservice.com
Dana1User is Offline
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12 Apr 2013 02:17 PM
Yeah, I burned my finger loading the (installed in late December) wood stove this AM too, but I've long since been unable to burn my hand on a light bulb, eh? ;-)

The color rendering index of better LED assemblies exceeds that of standard incandescents, approaching that of halogens at any correlated color temperature (and you can pick the color temperature that suits you or the application, unlike incandescent technology.) It's simply a better lighting technology, just now beginning to hit it's stride, (independently of the energy efficiency issue), with scant evidence of technologies that can compete with it on luminance efficiency OR light quality on the horizon. It's the future- count on it.

Relatively old school & low tech isn't necessarily a liability, or a Luddite reaction to modernity. The simple decision tree for installing the woodstove vs some other heating appliance to fill that cold hole in the wall that had been the circa 1923 fireplace (on an exterior chimney no less) went something like:

Works as backup heat when the (less than reliable in recent years) power grid is down?

Pellet stove = no-go.

Low net carbon emissions/hedge against current heating fuel price volatility?

Gas fire insert/stove comes off the list, despite some spousal objections/concerns/stated preferences.

EPA rated wood burners are WAY cleaner than even their pretty-good 1980s ancestors from a soot emissions point of view, and come with a correspondingly higher efficiency/lower fuel-use characteristic. The model we went with tested at 81% in lab, which is by no means the high end, but it was better matched to the actual heat loads than some of the higher-efficiency units. Like any other combustion appliance, it has to be burning somewhere near it's sweet-spot to hit the nameplate efficiency numbers.

Despite initial reservations, uxorial approval has been granted- it WAS the right move. She prefers the wood stove to the radiant floors, much to my surprise and somewhat to my dismay, having spent considerable time & effort retrofitting radiant into this place.

At the net SYSTEM efficiency and local fuel prices it's more expensive than heating with gas, but it'll even-up considerably after I insulate the chimney from the exterior this summer. Infra-red scans on the exterior of the firebox & chimney when it was +10F outside in January put that project on a higher priority track- something between 1/4 and 1/3 of the wood-burner heat is ending up outside (and I'm not including what went up the flue), now that the interior side bricks of the firebox are seeing temps north of 150F (rather than stagnating at 50F or less on the colder days without the wood stove.) Even the interior side of the finished wall above the mantel is uninsulated and difficult to retrofit legally, so its long been a ~60-70 square foot R2 hole in the thermal envelope deserving of treatment, but it's heat loss has jumped dramatically with the higher brick temps.

I've worked with a bunch o' Norskis and other skandahoovians in the past, but never observed one (or multiples thereof) messin' with the tubes, so you've stumped the chump!

How many DOES it take?
CalamityjUser is Offline
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24 Apr 2013 10:31 PM
Check out SuperBrightLED's located online. They are in Earth City, Missouri *near St. Louis... We have outfitted our new home with LED lights- most are 12v to a solar panel and battery storage- but I also have 110v regular "Bling" lights and chandeliers with candle lights in LED.... their prices are the best I've found.
jonrUser is Offline
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24 Apr 2013 10:38 PM
their prices are the best I've found.


Hmm, almost twice the price and 100 lumens less than Home Depot/Cree for a A19 LED bulb.
CalamityjUser is Offline
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26 Apr 2013 08:36 PM
Jonr; Superbright LED are the only people who seem to have the tech knowledge to advise on 12 volt to solar/battery stored LED systems... at about $14. for a GU10 or 16, they are un the zone... 4 watt bulbs that give 60* light equal to a standard 110 60 watt bulb... I can use 15 of these for the same power and 15 times the light...
jonrUser is Offline
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26 Apr 2013 08:49 PM
4 watt bulbs that give 60* light equal to a standard 110 60 watt bulb


You mean ~800 lumens @ 4 watts for 200 lumens/watt? Someone is lying.
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