Foundation insulation options for new construction
Last Post 20 Jan 2012 05:18 AM by mnelson61. 9 Replies.
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mnelson61User is Offline
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15 Jan 2012 08:41 PM

The design of our new home requires L footings with rebar locking the footing and wall on two sides to handle the load of the backfill. For this reason we have decided that concrete is a better choice than PWF SIPS or Stick built PWF. The decision comes down to ICF or CIP concrete with insulation. I am located in Ottawa Canada where we have 4,600 HDD. My understanding of where ICF really excels is when the daily outside temperature rises above and falls below the inside house temperature daily or frequently during the year. This condition lends itself well to the concrete's mass transfer being very slow and, therefore, moderating the daily temperature swings. My concern with ICF in my location is that with many days of continuous cold with only a thin layer of insulation on the outside that the concrete will cool down and stay cold. Then we are really relying on the thin layer inside to insulate as the concrete is basically the same temperature as outside. Would it not make sense in colder climates to use CIP and insulate the entire foundation on the outside with say 4" of rigid foam? This way the thermal mass concept can be taken advantage of as the concrete will always be 20 C or inside room temperature. If anyone has done this or can advise me why it is or is not a good idea, please comment.

AltonUser is Offline
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15 Jan 2012 09:49 PM
One way to a take advantage of thinner mass that will respond quickly to temperature changes is to build above and below grade with Structural Concrete Insulated Panels.  The concrete is thin but the insulation (EPS, XPS, etc.) in the middle of the wall can be up to 12" thick.  Shotcrete on the outside of the foam can be verified to be free of voids.  With shotcrete's high density, the concrete is more resistant to moisture.  Various types of water proofing can be applied to the below grade walls without much of a concern about compatibility with the foam since they will not touch.  Any type of wall should be engineered for the load.
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FBBPUser is Offline
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16 Jan 2012 02:15 PM
Posted By mnelson61 on 15 Jan 2012 08:41 PM

The design of our new home requires L footings with rebar locking the footing and wall on two sides to handle the load of the backfill. For this reason we have decided that concrete is a better choice than PWF SIPS or Stick built PWF. The decision comes down to ICF or CIP concrete with insulation. I am located in Ottawa Canada where we have 4,600 HDD. My understanding of where ICF really excels is when the daily outside temperature rises above and falls below the inside house temperature daily or frequently during the year. This condition lends itself well to the concrete's mass transfer being very slow and, therefore, moderating the daily temperature swings. My concern with ICF in my location is that with many days of continuous cold with only a thin layer of insulation on the outside that the concrete will cool down and stay cold. Then we are really relying on the thin layer inside to insulate as the concrete is basically the same temperature as outside. Would it not make sense in colder climates to use CIP and insulate the entire foundation on the outside with say 4" of rigid foam? This way the thermal mass concept can be taken advantage of as the concrete will always be 20 C or inside room temperature. If anyone has done this or can advise me why it is or is not a good idea, please comment.



When you say "requires L footings" I'm reading that to mean your engineer wants to use the basement wall as an independent of floors and opposing wall retaining wall. In other words if just that wall was being built it would still resist overturn based on the weight of soils on the "L". That mean you need to carry significant rebar through the footing and into the wall to the height of the backfill. While this is a possibility in many different products it is very simple in ICF. Your engineer will layout the amount of bar required. Pay attention. Do it right. If you think the engineer is over building than get a different engineer! Don't simple ignore his advice.

There is much debate about the R value of ICF and when it performs best. Some would even suggest that you shouldn't use it in cold climate. I live in the Calgary Alberta area which is a little cooler than your area. I can tell you that almost all engineers and heat loss professionals out here assign a "R" value of between 40 and 50 to ICFs. My house is just over 6000 sq. ft. of heated space. It has lots of windows and doors. The 6000 includes the basement (about half the walls at walk out level) and the garage which has two large garage doors. My heat loss calc's were based on R50 for the icf walls (footings to trusses in a two storey) and the house stays comfortably warm. I am heating a hydronic system right now with electric water heaters so I can calculate the exact heat required and the R50 is right based on my power consumption. Todays temps are around -27ºC.

When you read articles about ICF's make sure the writer is in the same climate as you or has actually surveyed existing icf houses in your area. There are several ICF contractors in your area that should be able to put you in touch with home owners that have lived in their homes for a number of years and should be able to give you an unbiased opinion. Most ICF home owners a quite willing to show you their heat bills even if it leads to a little bragging ;-).

You should find that for the basement the cost of ICF should be within a percent or two of other methods. For the upper walls it will be a bit more but if the rest of you insulation and air barrier is right you WILL recoup that investment in a reasonable time. If you go ICF all the way, you need to make sure you insulate under the basement slab floor (and under the footings is my preference) and R50 in the attic paying close attention to the air seal between the conditioned space and the attic.

If you want to add additional insulation to the outside of the basement, it won't harm anything but it is a limiting roi. There is no way that the concrete will "stay cold" Please take the time to see some of you local ICF houses. A couple of real life situations in your area will by far out weigh all the literate you can read!

Bob
mnelson61User is Offline
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16 Jan 2012 08:25 PM
I had a look at the SCIP concept and it seems like an impressive wall system. I think it may be a little more than my budget allows but most importantly it may not work in my case. I didn't  explain the reason my engineer has specified the L footing concept but it's really needed because I have an 18' high wall where only the bottom 6 feet is concrete below grade. The next 12 feet is standard stick framing to the roof. The backfill will excerpt pressure on the wood to concrete joint where it will act like a hinge and collapse. I am well aware that ICF can be used in this application and meet the structural requirements. I was looking for a high performance foundation wall that will nicely compliment the 2x6 wood wall with 2- 2" layers of rigid foam on the outside. I would think that it would be easy to add foam on the outside of a CIP foundation where it makes most sense to me. You still get most of the same advantages of ICF but also a few more. Here are the reasons I feel this concept is better than ICF.
1) You put all the insulation on the cold side, keep the cold out of the concrete. This allows us to take advantage of the thermal mass benefits of concrete by having a nice warm hunk of cement inside the house.
2) The rigid foam can get installed right up the foundation and over the wood walls, staggering all the seams so the rim joist/ floor to wall joints are covered nicely.
3) A concrete finish is great for garages and workshops, even basements, so need to cover it up.
4) No requirement for fireproofing so drywall not needed for occupancy permit.
5) Installation of rigid foam is low-tech so this could be an area that DIYers could save serious money.
6) CIP is commonplace, many contractors with competitive pricing which should result in an affordable price.
7) Best advantage should be lower cost than ICF but still comparable insulation value.

There may be some drawbacks also:
1) What is best way to fasten two layers of rigid foam to CIP concrete?
2) The outside of a CIP foundation is not perfectly flat. Do the imperfections cause the foam to bow out leaving air gaps? Is this a problem?
3) How do I fasten stone or veneer? I see the FERO "FAST" system is one method, but will it work with 4" of foam? Or do I need to build another wall to support the brick?


 
MikeGUser is Offline
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17 Jan 2012 01:28 PM
Hi mnelson,

I’ll also be building in Ottawa within the next year, so right off the bat I’m interested in your question and the outcome. I’ve had a similar discussion with my builder and he’s worked with the following product and recommends it: Styrorail, namely the sr.f panel (http://www.styrorail.ca/produits/srpanel_e.htm). It’s a product made locally, so should be easy to source. The one issue with foam on the outside that I see, is the potential for damage when backfilling. Also, if it’s any way similar to ICF, you’re looking at more expensive stucco material for the parging of the above ground portion of the foundation.

If you don’t mind me asking, can you fill me in on who your builder is and what area of the city you’ll be building in?

-Mike

PS – Not that it has any impact on this discussion, but just want to point out that Ottawa has a climate of 4600 Celsius HDD, which for many on this forum converts to about 8300 HDD (F).
mnelson61User is Offline
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17 Jan 2012 09:30 PM

@Mike, thanks for pointing out the difference in the HDD from Celcius to Farenheit. I have seen the styrorail product in one of my many web browsing sessions. It looks like an interesting system. I am building outside Ottawa in McNabb/Braeside and hoping there is less red tape there than in the city.
I understand your concern about damaging the foam, however, I'm not too worried about it as I will be doing the backfill myself and will be using sand. As far as finishing the exposed area above the backfill I wouldn't use parging anyway as I've never seen a job that didn't eventually crack. There are some neat products out there, one is a rigid cement board that can be tapcon'd onto the foundation through the foam (I can't find the name at the moment) another is a pre-finished foam product that imitates stucco http://styro.net/FoundationInsulationPanel.htm 
Another very impressive product I found that I will probably use is www.suretouch.com. This is a panelized system that holds stone or brick and claims an R value of 13.5 This goes nicely right over the CIP wall.

smartwallUser is Offline
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18 Jan 2012 08:26 AM
mnelson61 use a monopour system for your walls and footer it sounds like it's what you need
mnelson61User is Offline
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19 Jan 2012 06:32 AM
I did a quick search to see what "monopour" would do for me. How does it help regarding adding insulation to the exterior?
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19 Jan 2012 07:57 AM
You mentioned that you were doing L footings which means the wall is not sitting on the center of the footing, which makesiti an ideal situation for mono pour since the footing and wall are cast in one step and the wall doesn't have to sit in the middle of the footing
mnelson61User is Offline
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20 Jan 2012 05:18 AM

Thankyou Smartwall, that does seem like a very good benefit of the monopour system, plus I can see how the entire structure would be much stronger and resist the side loads better. I will definitely bring this up with my forming contractor.
Has anyone used the  the SURETOUCH cladding system www.suretouch.ca I am hoping to get some opinions on this product.  To me it seems pretty slick and for a do-it-yourself project it seems like a smart way to save about $10.00 per sq. ft. over hiring a stone mason.    

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