icf/sip house with radiant slab
Last Post 11 Sep 2009 02:27 PM by geogreen. 7 Replies.
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larryhUser is Offline
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09 Aug 2009 06:13 PM
If anyone can help...I'm wanting to build an icf walled, metal skinned sip roof with galvalume metal roofing, etc. The question I have is that I am wanting to use a radiant stem walled slab in north Florida and have been told contradictory advice on using foam isulation under the slab. I've got the land, plans, builder, etc. and one shot to get this right. Any advice would be appreciated. Larry
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09 Aug 2009 09:43 PM

Larry,
I can see two issues with using foam under a slab.  In areas heavily infested with termites some code officials will not allow the use of foam below a slab.  Another issue is that since the earth temperature is so moderate in North Florida, it may be difficult to justify the additonal cost of foam and a radiant slab.  If you do use foam under the slab then consider using borate treated.  Google Geofoam with Perform Guard.

I would imagine that you plan to use a pex system for radiant heat unless you plan to go with electric wires.  Look into using pex-A type of tubes that have memory to hold the connections.  See Uponor

Feel free to e-mail me if you think I can be of further assistance.

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Construction Technology Consultant -- E-mail: Alton at Auburn dot Edu Use email format with @ and period .
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Dana1User is Offline
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12 Aug 2009 09:41 AM
Assuming the stem wall is ICF, I can't imagine an insulated slab would be the right way to go on N. FL, where the cooling season earth-coupling of an uninsulatated slab would have greater benefit than the miniscule heating-season savings. Insulating the stem wall is the right thing always.

I'm not sure that a full-radiant slab makes a lot of sense here either, since the typical heating loads are so low the slab temp won't ever reach the cushy cruisin' in yer socks appeal. Assuming its hydronic, using spot-radiant- concentrate the radiant in places where you're likely to be standing/sitting walking and run somewhat higher water temps to get the necessary BTU output gives you the cush-factro better than a monolithic evenly-space full slab approach running at lower temps. The difference in efficiency between 100F water and 85F water isn't huge (whether heat pump or condensing boiler), but the feel under foot is. The efficiency difference using electric radiant will be near-zero. But whether hydronic or electric, if you go with the higher-temp spot-radiant approach and the radiant is less than 40% of the total slab area, it may make sense to put R5 under the radiant portions of the slab.
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18 Aug 2009 11:06 AM
I agree that a radiant slab may be overkill for Florida. However, if you are going to put a hydronic heating system in your concrete slab. I would advise to put insulation below the slab. This makes sense for the simple reason that it will increase the efficiency of the radiant heat. With insulation below the slab the heat will be forced to move up into the concrete floor and less heat will escape into mother earth. I still don't understand why you would need In-Floor heating in Florida, but to each there own.
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larryhUser is Offline
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18 Aug 2009 05:43 PM
I figured that I would receive some inquiries into why I would use radiant floors in north Florida. I just assumed that since I use my central heat unit during the winter, why not use radiant floors with a possible solar integration. It can get quite cold here in the winter and we are planning on stained concrete for the flooring with area rugs. thank you for any advice or tips you may have. Larry
geogreenUser is Offline
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08 Sep 2009 05:03 PM
one word:  Slippers.
larryhUser is Offline
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10 Sep 2009 09:57 AM
Seriously? Slippers? Wait a second, for my heating; one word: "coat". Windows? "transparent". Thanks for the advice.
geogreenUser is Offline
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11 Sep 2009 02:27 PM
FE: Slippers; Sorry, couldn't resist.

I'm from a cold climate, heating dominant so we do our infloor a little differently than you would. But I would mention that you could do a certain amount of cooling with your radiant slab also, as long as you have humidity control and keep the temp above the dewpoint. In general I quite agree with Dana1 has said. Infloor can be a pricey way to go, and cost may outweigh the benefits.

A resource site I've found useful in the past is: www.healthyheating.com Again, tends to be aimed towards heating dominant climates, but they have the best info I've found anywhere.
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