Over the cathedral areas it's a lot less labor to just strip the shingles and add the foam on top with a seam-staggered nailer deck of OSB on top, long-screwed to the old deck (with screws long enough to completely penetrate the old deck, for maxiumum mechanical strength.)
This will perform better too, since you won't have the thermal short-circuiting by the rafters. There are several vendors out there that have insulation pre-laminated to an OSB nailer deck (Atlas, Hunter, et al). Anything much over 4" thick gets to be a lot of work with long screws, but 2-4" goes pretty quick. (I've read of people going nuts with 6", but that takes 8 inch screws, which gets to be pretty unwieldy working with a drill on a roof deck.)
There are several vendors of pre-formed XPS and cardboard chutes designed to be stapled to the roof decking to keep the soffits clear & venting. If you're trying to maintain a high R-value out to the edges, scooping out the cellulose and cutting in some stacked ISO or spraying some layers 2lb foam prior to the cellulose overblow will give you ~R7/inch of depth, whereas low density cellulose is good for about half that. (6" of iso is worth a foot of celluose, more or less.)
If the 2x8" joists are spanning a large distance unsupported by partition walls, you may have loading issues with a super-insulating depth of cellulose. Dry weight will be ~1.5lbs per cubic foot, and a 24" depth (~R85) weighs something. |