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Bathroom HRVs - the truth please
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nolanarcher
 New Member
 Posts:19
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| 24 May 2010 08:50 PM |
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I'm in the middle of renos for my house. We've installed a new HE wood stove, furnace, and hotwater tank already, and are about to add considerable air-tightness and insulation value to the walls, as well as replace all the windows/doors. Having read a lot on energy efficient housing, I wanted to get an HRV installed, because the ensuite bathroom doesn't even have a fan and the lower bathroom vents into the furnace room. With the old furnace gone, there is now a Bvent that could even be used to run the pipes for the HRV system, with convenient proximity to the stacking bathrooms and even the kitchen stove (it has a useless charcoal filter right now).
I asked the furnace/hot water installer about it, and he said that's not how HRVs work. Afterwards I did more reading and thought he must have been wrong, so I called several HVAC companies until I found a couple who actually knew what HRVs were, and they came to have a look, and told me that you can't use HRVs in bathrooms or they will clog up with bacteria and excessive moisture and break down pronto.
Then I did more reading, and it seems like other people are using HRVs in bathrooms all the time.
What's the deal? |
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nolanarcher
 New Member
 Posts:19
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| 03 Jun 2010 11:49 PM |
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http://www.kitchensource.com/bathroom-fans/fv-04ve1.htm
I noticed Dana posted this on another thread. Could you use this similar to fantech's system, where you install the fan in the trusses, and run ducts to two separate bathrooms (so that they would both use the same fan - which is the quietest and most economical option)? |
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Eric Anderson
 Basic Member
 Posts:441

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| 04 Jun 2010 11:54 AM |
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Panasonic makes a specific bathroom ERV Panasonic WhisperComfort Spot ERV - FV-04VE1
The other alternative is to use both a bathroom fan for spot exhaust on a timer, and a separate HRV or ERV. This is what I am running. I have a Panasonic bath fan with a 30 min timer and a Fantech ERV set to 0.35 ACH. The ERV exhausts stale air from the kitchen and bathroom and provides fresh air to the bedrooms. Works well for me. Eric |
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| Think Energy CT, LLC Comprehensive Home Performance Energy Auditing |
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cmkavala
 Veteran Member
 Posts:4327

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| 05 Jun 2010 07:28 AM |
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Posted By nolanarcher on 24 May 2010 08:50 PM I'm in the middle of renos for my house. We've installed a new HE wood stove, furnace, and hotwater tank already, and are about to add considerable air-tightness and insulation value to the walls, as well as replace all the windows/doors. Having read a lot on energy efficient housing, I wanted to get an HRV installed, because the ensuite bathroom doesn't even have a fan and the lower bathroom vents into the furnace room. With the old furnace gone, there is now a Bvent that could even be used to run the pipes for the HRV system, with convenient proximity to the stacking bathrooms and even the kitchen stove (it has a useless charcoal filter right now). I asked the furnace/hot water installer about it, and he said that's not how HRVs work. Afterwards I did more reading and thought he must have been wrong, so I called several HVAC companies until I found a couple who actually knew what HRVs were, and they came to have a look, and told me that you can't use HRVs in bathrooms or they will clog up with bacteria and excessive moisture and break down pronto. Then I did more reading, and it seems like other people are using HRVs in bathrooms all the time. What's the deal? Nolan archer; There are two types of energy-recovery systems: heat-recovery ventilators (HRV) and energy-recovery (or enthalpy-recovery) ventilators (ERV). Both types include a heat exchanger core, one or more fans to push air through the machine, and some controls. The main difference between a heat-recovery and an energy-recovery ventilator is the way the heat exchanger core works. With an energy-recovery ventilator, the heat exchanger transfers a certain amount of water vapor along with heat energy, while a heat-recovery ventilator only transfers heat. The part of the country in which you live will dictate that type of unit that is right for your needs. Generally speaking – HRVs are usually recommended for colder climates with longer heating seasons. ERVs are used for warmer, more humid climates with long cooling seasons. the following are recommended installs   |
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| Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br /> |
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dlmeinert
 New Member
 Posts:1
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| 29 Jun 2010 09:42 AM |
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You need an exhaust duct or exhaust fan (or an open window) for fresh air for each bathroom. In a previous house, I exhausted the top floor bathrooms fan ducts to the HRV. HRVs serve to get fresh air into tight houses, without having to open windows. Typically, HRVs are useful for very tight, extremely well insulated houses. A lot of conventionally built houses are sufficiently leaky / drafty, so as not to require much more than exhaust fans in the bathrooms. About 22 years ago, I made a homemade HRV, which I used in my house for the next 16 years (then I moved). The HRV recovered about 70% of the heat from the exhaust air, which made the incoming air a fairly pleasant temperature, even in the dead of winter. (To get the “recipe” for this design, see the below link). At the time, I had a 2 story house with a basement. I exhausted air from the two upstairs bathrooms and the upstairs hallway, and introduced the incoming (pre-heated) air to the basement. That seemed to give a fairly good supply of fresh air to the house, except to any rooms with closed doors. In my current house I did NOT install an HRV. I use prolonged use of exhaust fans, and opening selected windows (just a crack) to feed the exhaust fans. That seems to provide a fairly continuous supply of fresh air, but is a bit drafty in the winter. But it rarely gets below +15 degrees F. where I currently live, so it is tolerable. For a source of information on infiltration, HRVs and ventilation, I have some documents you can access on-line. It includes an electronic copy of a book I wrote 20 years ago (Energy Conservation in Housing), with updated information I have added in recent years. All the text data is on a Google site, but it has the links to the Yahoo site and a “Multiply” sites, to see some photos and videos. http://groups.google.com/group/Energy-Conservation-in-Housing On the top section of this web display is some text information with links to the Yahoo and Multiply sites. On the bottom section of this display is the actual PDF and Word documents. Good luck. |
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Ventolator
 New Member
 Posts:17
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| 01 Jul 2010 05:56 PM |
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Some brands of air exchangers can be used for bath exhaust (always consult mfg. recommendations) . Some brands of ERVs can be used in the northern climates (and southern), while other brands suggest divergence of HRVs north and ERVs south. (Again, follow each mfg. recommendations.) No exchangers I am aware of allow range hood exhaust, mostly due to grease, as well as high temperature air. I have an exhaust vent in the kitchen (outside of a 45 degree angle from the top of the cooking surface, a universal guideline) going to my ERV (in WI, -11F design; unit made in WI) along with a vent in each of two bathrooms. The fresh air is directed to my return plenum, while in my rental house, the fresh air is split to 4 different areas. No air exchanger provides make-up air for any open combustion appliance, (fireplace, water heater, wood stove, which require a dedicated combustion air source, as directed by their mfg.). The ERV should be balanced. There is no larger issue of biological growth in air exchanger ductwork versus bath exhaust fan ductwork, if both are installed properly. There is biological growth potential with any air exchangers with drain pans, even without being connected to any bathrooms. My ERV has no drain, the ductwork is installed properly with no "catches"; no moisture accumulation, and no issues. I do have "make-up" air for bath exhaust and general kitchen exhaust, with energy recovery. I have a microwave/range hood combo for immediate cooking exhaust, and the ERV kitchen vent removes the cooking odors and added moisture overnight. The variables are the amount of run time, and amount of air exhausting from each location. Minimum code (which is always minimum) in WI is 50cfm intermittent or 20cfm continuous per bathroom. Also, code is to provide "balancing air" calculated of 40% of the total of bath fans and range hood cfm. With exhaust only fans, an industry guideline is 1cfm/square foot or 8 air changes (evacuations) per hour. As houses have reduced infiltration (built tighter), air has to come in from somewhere. Otherwise we are building vacuum pump houses and air will come back in through the biggest holes; water heater, fireplace, dryer vent, etc. Reduce exhaust only fans/vents, utilize closed combustion appliances, apply make-up air as needed. |
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phoenix_heating_seattle
 New Member
 Posts:11
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| 02 Jul 2010 02:38 AM |
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I prefer using HRV's in conjunction with the heating system rather than trying to kill two birds with one stone by using them as bathroom fans. |
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snowgames
 New Member
 Posts:18
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| 05 Jul 2010 08:37 PM |
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I've been trying to find information on how to size an ERV. Does anyone have any idea where to look? On a website i forgot where it determined I needed an industrial sized model which I though was a little odd. |
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Ventolator
 New Member
 Posts:17
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| 06 Jul 2010 03:14 PM |
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ASHRAE 62-1999 states .35 air exchanges per hour for residential living space (for general ventilation). Recent standards suggest a lower minimum, such as 15cfm/bedroom + an additional 15cfm for the master bedroom. In reality, it depends upon how tightly built the house is, along with occupancy and lifestyle of the occupants, i.e. cooking, entertaining, plants, pets, etc. If you size to the .35 ach maximum, the amount of time the unit runs will probably be less. You can run a larger unit less, but a smaller unit cannot run above its capacity. The trend is toward smaller units, but in reality, the fixed installation cost is similar to the larger units, and there is not a huge difference in price of the units. Always look at HVI certified efficiency ratings and get the unit that best fits your needs, that has the best efficiency. If utilizing an air exchanger as central bath exhaust, the unit is usually one size larger than for general ventilation, due to multiple exhaust vents x 50cfm (minimum). |
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nolanarcher
 New Member
 Posts:19
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| 07 Jul 2010 11:29 PM |
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cmkavala:
Hey, I live in Calgary, AB, Canada - we are right beside the Rocky Mountains and dip down below -30 C in the winter and heat up past 30 C in the summer, so it will be an HRV, not an ERV for me. Our house will be very tight after I complete the new vapour barrier and additional insulation on the exterior. Your diagrams were too small to read, and I'm pretty sure I've seen similar things else where. I need more details. |
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nolanarcher
 New Member
 Posts:19
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| 07 Jul 2010 11:31 PM |
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dlmeinert: Thanks for the links. I haven't had time to go through everything yet. |
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nolanarcher
 New Member
 Posts:19
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| 07 Jul 2010 11:35 PM |
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Posted By Ventolator on 01 Jul 2010 05:56 PM
Some brands of air exchangers can be used for bath exhaust (always consult mfg. recommendations) . Some brands of ERVs can be used in the northern climates (and southern), while other brands suggest divergence of HRVs north and ERVs south. (Again, follow each mfg. recommendations.) No exchangers I am aware of allow range hood exhaust, mostly due to grease, as well as high temperature air. I have an exhaust vent in the kitchen (outside of a 45 degree angle from the top of the cooking surface, a universal guideline) going to my ERV (in WI, -11F design; unit made in WI) along with a vent in each of two bathrooms. The fresh air is directed to my return plenum, while in my rental house, the fresh air is split to 4 different areas. No air exchanger provides make-up air for any open combustion appliance, (fireplace, water heater, wood stove, which require a dedicated combustion air source, as directed by their mfg.). The ERV should be balanced. There is no larger issue of biological growth in air exchanger ductwork versus bath exhaust fan ductwork, if both are installed properly. There is biological growth potential with any air exchangers with drain pans, even without being connected to any bathrooms. My ERV has no drain, the ductwork is installed properly with no "catches"; no moisture accumulation, and no issues. I do have "make-up" air for bath exhaust and general kitchen exhaust, with energy recovery. I have a microwave/range hood combo for immediate cooking exhaust, and the ERV kitchen vent removes the cooking odors and added moisture overnight. The variables are the amount of run time, and amount of air exhausting from each location. Minimum code (which is always minimum) in WI is 50cfm intermittent or 20cfm continuous per bathroom. Also, code is to provide "balancing air" calculated of 40% of the total of bath fans and range hood cfm. With exhaust only fans, an industry guideline is 1cfm/square foot or 8 air changes (evacuations) per hour. As houses have reduced infiltration (built tighter), air has to come in from somewhere. Otherwise we are building vacuum pump houses and air will come back in through the biggest holes; water heater, fireplace, dryer vent, etc. Reduce exhaust only fans/vents, utilize closed combustion appliances, apply make-up air as needed.
What kind of HRV are you using? Someone else on the forums recommended Lifebreath and theirs all have Condensate drains (you were saying to avoid drains).
What sort of 'catches' should I watch out for? |
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JohnyH
 Basic Member
 Posts:114
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| 08 Jul 2010 07:43 AM |
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I also read the drain issue that was mentioned and have to add that in my climate Ottawa, Canada there has never been any biological growth that I know of in my HRV which does have a drain? I do check it a few times in the winter when it is in full use!
John |
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Ventolator
 New Member
 Posts:17
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| 08 Jul 2010 11:38 AM |
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I have installed at least 10 RenewAire ERVs. None of their units have drains. My comment was that any unit with a drain pan has biological growth potential; I did not say to avoid. Some applications such as swimming pools, spas or extreme cold Canadian climates need an HRV. A unit without a drain can be mounted upside down (like mine) or fastened to the ceiling (door down), and you don't have to run a drain line. More versatility, less work, and a year round product, whether it's cold or warm outside. My version of a "catch" is any connection or joint that can catch dirt or moisture, so I always make sure to point male duct connections in the direction of airflow (like an arrow), and if not, I foil tape the inside of the connection to make a smooth airway, so there is no place to catch anything in the airstream or cause turbulence. I always foil tape externally at connections as well. |
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