Project Recommendations - Wyoming Gambrel Barn House
Last Post 10 Feb 2011 07:19 PM by badrhino. 3 Replies.
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badrhinoUser is Offline
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04 Feb 2011 10:54 PM

Thanks to all contributors for the wealth of information I've already obtained from existing threads.

My wife and I are getting ready to build a house near Cody, Wyoming (7800 HDD, but quite dry). We really want an efficient house to minimize future energy needs.

We own a .70 acre (138Wx231L) north facing lot that is flat; we also own the identical-sized adjoining lot to the east. Houses on these lots must face north toward the street. The ground has not been farmed for years and is very hard and dry. The house behind the lots is single story, and the lots runs N and S, so we're counting on maximizing our solar options, to the point of involving a solar design specialist to make sure we don't mess anything up.

We have a good amount of contruction experience, including assisting on ICF, stick-frame, and SIP builds. We also have access to equipment and (relatively) good and cheap labor. We did most of the work to build our current 3,300 sqft stick-built house. However, at that point I was not enlightened to the concepts of green building and sustainability, so the house's efficiency and energy features stink.

At this point, we are strongly considering a gambrel barn house (see barnplans.com) with a simple retangular (32'x40'=144' perimeter) foundation and framing plan. The house would have an unfinished 8' basement (mainly for storage), 8' or 9' main floor, and second floor. I'd love to cut back on the size, but I'm having to address a mother-in-law accommodation issue (unless you have non-violent solutions, please don't ask).

For the basement, I'm looking at Nudura or FoxBlocks 6" ICFs (no info yet on 8"/10"/12"). I can DIY for $7.00/sqft of wall or contract it out for $10.00/sqft. We're planning for 3" EPS under the basement floor; but, we're not really considering PEX in the slab. We'll probably have the rear (S) of the basement be walk out by only sinking the basement 4' and using porches and new dirt that will slope away from the front and sides of the house. On the south side, we hope to  incorporate extensive passive solar into the exposed basement with a optimally designed shed porch roof.

For the main floor, I'm considering 1) taking the ICFs on up, 2) using 2x6" 24" oc (advanced framing techniques), wet-spray cellulose, and (as needed) rigid iso on the exterior, or 3) using double stud 2x4 offset walls 24" oc, wet-spray cellulose, and, perhaps, exterior sheathing. My research shows SIPs to seem expensive compared to the other options. The house exterior will probably be steel or cement board siding.

For the second floor, the gambrel truss design will probably need to be insulated with spray foam to achieve a balanced R-value relative to the rest of the house. The roof will be a steel roof to facilitate rainwater catchment.

I will likely utilize the roof for solar collectors for radiant heating and water heating systems incorporating a basement-level heat exchanger and boiler system with radiant heating in the living areas.  We'll also have a wood stove available.

The garage will be detached, but that's for another post and another day.

I guess I'm looking for comments and suggestions that will help make this a more successful project.  In particular, for the main floor, how will my known ICF cost ($7.00) compare to the other options (2x6" advanced and double stud)? Is the gambrel barn design a reasonable approach?  Also, what am I missing?



Some Visual Helps

 
 
 

ComoUser is Offline
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06 Feb 2011 02:27 PM
My first though is that you have it facing the wrong way and too much glass at the sides.
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06 Feb 2011 04:17 PM
we're not really considering PEX in the slab
Why not? It's cheap and gives you all sorts of options down the road.

Sounds like your orientation will work. That porch needs to be on the North side facing the street. No overhang or porch on the back (south side). That side needs to have lots of high r-value, high solar-gain windows. When you think you have as many as you can get back there, then you need to run the heat calcs and see if it isn't too much, just in case.

You might want to consider just taking the ICF walls to the top of the Main Floor and using conventional framing on the gambrel ends. That way you don't have to have a super high ICF wall for minimal benefit.

You'll want some mass in the main floor to take full advantage of what comes in the windows, so with your basement plan that will probably mean at a minimum some thinslab over subfloor which needs some basement post support. Insuldeck would be nice, giving you a concrete floor on the main floor for tubing, but you'd have to at least split the 32' dimension down below for support.
badrhinoUser is Offline
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10 Feb 2011 07:19 PM
Thanks for the feedback.

Anybody else have any feedback?  Dana1?
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