I was wondering if there was a safe way to use blown cellulose to insulate basement walls.

I assume that the problem is moisture coming through the cement foundation - is there a solution to this moisture problem?

Thanks.

I presume this is a traditional concrete foundation. Unconventional insulation but there are a couple of options.

You could cover the walls with 1" high density rigid foam attached to the concrete. Seal it with red tape and then frame your wall inside, complete with vapor barrier and then blow in the cellufibre.

Plan B is to put a damp proofing layer of poly against the concrete. Frame inside, poly etc. then blow in the cellufibre.

The unique deterrent to using cellufibre is that it settles so that over time you would have an uninsulated chamber at the top of your walls.

If I was to take this route, I would go with version A so you would have a thermal break at the top.

Thanks All-Sask ICF Builder.

Is there a way to calculate how much settling to expect?

The reason I ask is that I plan to extend a Larsen Truss type structure down the outside of the foundation wall.

I'd like to know how far to extend it to cover the space that might be not insulated, on the inside, due to settling.

If you have stabilized cellulose (with adhesive) wet sprayed in the stud bays, you shouldn't have any settling issues. The other option to avoid settling is netting and dense packing dry cellulose. With a basement, I would still put up 1" or so XPS foam board next to the concrete wall, then build your stud wall inside that. The XPS is a moisture retardant and provides an extra R5 per inch of thickness to minimize thermal bridging of the studs and plates.

I would consider poly, EPS (less expensive), wet sprayed cellulose and then no interior side poly. But only if the walls have a history of staying very dry - otherwise I could imagine water running out at the bottom plate (treated wood of course) and other problems.

I would not use cellulose in a wet basement, period. (you could go to the National Fiber website& call or write their technical department)
First - deal with the water and repair the cause. Second: install interior or exterior drains. Then, foam works to keep moisture out, but the application varies depending on the type of wall and drain locations. If you are using interior drains, the water has to be allowed to get to the drains. It is a complicated issue; do it wrong and you get mold & mushrooms.

Vapor barriers in these situations are bad news.