Studies show that green building can be expensive for the homeowners who need it most. http://www.constructiondive.com/news/going-green-why-those-who-need-it-most-cant-afford-it/374107/ Do you all agree? How can it become more affordable?

First, Multi-family can be built to Passive House standards (The highest energy standard worldwide) for close to, or the same as a building built to the lowest standards allowable. We're not quite there yet with single family, but the cost gap is closing. The SF builder has to understand how to build a good house. Most don't. And throwing in a geothermal system with some spray foam won't cut it. So the first step is education. The second step is for manufacturers to step up to the plate and build & supply the materials to do that at a reasonable cost; that will come (and is coming)with increased demand.

And we all need it; not just the poor.

Green options that are reasonably inexpensive exist. Usually people doing green tend to pick upgraded finish at the same time. The same quality finish in green is doable today at very little additional cost. Energy upgrades done in the right and responsible manner are always setoff by a reduction in utility cost, reduced HVAC systems, increased comfort and quality of the living environment. If those cost savings are added to the mortgage you can have a net zero house at no additional cash flow over time and a guarantee of no escalation in living costs do to utility cost increases in the future. ZEH is security, cost affective now.

Green Building means making homes that improve the health and economic
vitality of people and protect the environment. It is about making our homes
and workplaces healthier, more comfortable, more durable, safer and more
affordable. That's why expensive!

I agree with most of your points, but done right it does not have to be more expensive. We build green, carbon sequestrating, net zero, passive homes. They do not have to cost more than a nice custom home of the same quality.Quality of finishes are a high percentage of a homes cost. Pure energy efficiency can be had for relatively small incremental cost. It is always possible to reduce the life cycle costs while going green on a cost analyses basis. Completely encasing a home with 6 inches of recycled styrofoam can be done for about $3 per square foot of house. Triple pane windows can be had for an extra $1 a square foot. These to simple action will reduce the size of your HVAC systems by 80%. 80% less utilities for life, about the same upfront costs, and operating cost security.

You also have to build right, tight, and with energy use and quality of life as the primary goals in the design. These are all a matter of knowledge and not incremental costs.

I have had clients that chose high end European windows at a net increase of $90,000 on a home over a similar efficiency contractor grade window. The hardware was really nice. The quality was really high. Net efficiency was about the same. These are choices made often by people that value and can afford it, but the cost solutions picked are choices.

Brian

Let's back up to a few fundamental design considerations that don't cost anything but can have a major impact on the efficiency of a home: solar orientation and color choices. How many times have you seen a tract home plopped down on a lot with absolutely no consideration for the direction of the sun? There will be a giant contractor-grade picture window in the living/dining area facing due west in a hot climate. That's just plain madness! Now put a dark brown asphalt shingle roof on the vented attic. More madness!

Jelly,

You are right. Asphalt shingles are almost always a bad idea. Standard model homes on random oriented lots are bad ideas. Low efficiency windows, houses that are not tight and ventilated right, standard framing, homes only to code minimum are all bad ideas. Consumers should refuse to buy such homes in all cases. Homes built to bad ideas will be liabilities, and provide less comfort, higher operating costs, poorer health a plethora of bad is the status quo in the US today. We need to stop excepting mediocre.

Brian

EZ SIPS are simple low cost EPS panels routed out to build into standard framing, and will give you an R-19 2x6 thick wall with 2x4 lumber. Our built in 1.75" thick thermal break eliminates thermal bridging to significantly increase insulation efficiency. From only $2.20 / Square foot! Please inquire at www.structuralinsulatedpanels.com

$2.20 a sq?

Not sure where you went to school, but the website says $90 for a 4x8 eps which is $2.81 not 2.20 that's without the framing, sheathing & labor to assemble. Which must add at least a $1 a sq

all the jack studs & joint studs are thermal bridges not present in a sips.

I can get you several SIPS manufacturers with ready to go panels for $3.75, that's less money less time than EZ sips

Last time I bought a semi load of geofoam it was $2 per cubic foot cut into sheet any thickness and width I wanted. That is only $.29 per foot for 1.75 " sheet. Applied to outside over studs with cellulose fill is a lot cheaper than EZ SIP or SIP for the same thermal performance if you are looking for slightly better than code performance.

Material cost for 6.5 inches is only $1.08 per foot. Foam is easy to cut and route. Sounds like you are paying a lot for a little convenience.

The better solution is to build more efficient homes that improve the health, wealth and comfort of the occupants while being environmentally responsible. All of these decisions should be made with a life cycle cost analysis. Properly analyzed and executed you would never build a house close to code minimums. Double code is easily justified when analyzed. That is why we build an R-50 wall as our minimum configuration. The only way you can justify less is house flipping.

Brian

Brian
What is "geofoam"? I'm familiar with EPS, EPS with graphite, Styrofoam & polyisocyanurate but not that one.

Bob,

Geofoam is a brand name for EPS that is Boric acid treated specifically made for fill in big construction projects, under highways, around and under buildings. It has the same compressive strength as many soils, is more consistent and much lighter creating less lateral loads on the project. It is also bug resistant due to the Boric acid treatment. It is usually available in 30" x 36" x 16' billets. The manufacturers will slice billet one time through typically for free. This gives you sheet material of your desired thickness, 16 ' in length. Material comes in 1.4, 2, and 3 lb densities. This is the least expensive way I know of to source foam. You have to buy a semi load or more at a time. That is 24000 board feet minimum order. That is about what we use in an R-50 wall 2000 SF ICF house.

Brian

HI Brian
So if I understand you correctly, to get 6" x 36" x 16'; they would make (4) cuts & get (6) pieces 6" thick x36: wide X 16' long. 6" x R4 = R24, then one nails/screws onto the wall & straps over that, right?

Bob,

We usually make 6 by 6,8,12,and 24 , by 16' pieces of foam. The process is using multiple hot wire cutters on a machine that can cut the entire billet in both horizontal and vertical slices to selected dimensions down to 1/2" spacing all at once. You need to design the cut pattern to avoid waste. This is done to the billet once down its length. We do all the additional processing on site for all pieces we need. The mfg will cut special pieces but at substantial additional cost. EPS is easy to work with and it is cheaper for us to finish on-site.

How we assemble and attach depends on what we are doing. We have developed many methods depending on structural needs, surfacing desires of clients, concrete wall core size, spans, bucks for doors and windows, etc.

Brian

OK, THANKS!

sounds like great stuff under slabs etc.

About what is the cost

Depends on your supplier and your relationship. Typically it ranges fro 2 to $3.50 a cubic foot for 1.5 lb foam. Remember that the best pricing is for large highway jobs where they order millions of cubic feet at a time. It is worth developing a relationship. Laying out the cuts, and designing around their standard billet size goes along way toward making it easy for the supplier.

Brian

For comparison, 4x8 1lb density EPS sheets from the the local big box store are about $3/cu ft (perhaps $3.30 adjusted for the slightly lower R value).

There are ways of going green in a cheap way. It has to be done the right way. There many experts out there one can reach out to. Personally I believe thinking about the long run is important. Though one shot investment might seem huge, it won't be expensive in the long run.

I Think you have the big box foam cost incorrect.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-7-7-Rigid-Foam-Insulation-310891/202532856

1 x48x96 foam is $20. $20/4/8x12 is $4.12 per cubic foot. To get it cheaper you have to buy in bulk. I am normally buying 1.5, 2 and 3# Geofoam which cost more and not generally available at big box stores . I Fixed the reference, sorry. My point was I shoot for $2.50 in bulk for 1.5#

Brian