Mounting vertical glass units in sunspace?
Last Post 10 Jul 2015 08:16 PM by gosolar. 3 Replies.
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ColinCUser is Offline
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10 Jul 2015 11:59 AM
Hello!

I’m re-doing a sunroom that was originally constructed in the late 1970s.  I’ve attached a couple of pictures to give you an idea.  We’ve decided to basically stick with the original design as you can see in the one photo: 3 walls (south, north and west) of basic framing with 34”w x 76”h “insulated glass units” that are 5/8” wide made with 1/8” thick tempered glass.

From what I can tell, the original glass units were just put into place and caulked in (no spacers on the bottom used).  We broke a couple during the “removal” process because the caulk had dried so hard, but otherwise most of the windows have held up well over the years…maybe one or two broken due to hail.

I've replaced all the original framing with pressure-treated 2x6s, creating rough openings approximately 34 ¼ x 76 ¼”.  Our plan is to mount the window units like you see in the ‘window detail’ photo; the glass units would go in where I’ve put the yellow line (although we’re going to use cedar for those outer trim pieces, not pine as shown in the photo).  Basically the units would be ‘sandwiched’ in between the trim pieces, and caulk would only be applied to where the trim pieces contacted the glass since the guy we bought replacement windows from said that caulk shouldn’t contact the rubber ‘gasket’/seal around the edge of these kind of sealed glass units.

The main complication is that when I went in to pick up the replacement glass units (to replace the ones broken during removal or had otherwise lost their seal), the window guy said that these types of units need to be mounted on hard rubber “spacers” (see photo) rather than having them rest directly on the wood frame at the bottom, since otherwise you run the risk of having the units compressed and broken if the wood framing expanded/contracted.

We had not accounted for the use of spacers when we created the rough openings, so if we’re going to use them we’ll need to go in and take off ¼” of so of the “front” (exterior side) of all 24 bottom pieces/sills to create space for them.

So I guess I have two issues I'd really appreciate any input on:

     1. Generally, what do you think of what we are planning as far as "sandwiching" the glass units in as shown in the photo ('GlassMountingDetail')? 

     2. More specifically, are rubber spacers like this necessary for this type of unit/installation? 

Below are links to some photos to give you a better idea of the project.

Any advice appreciated...Thanks for your time and help!


Colin


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1894227/Sunspace1.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1894227/Sunspace2.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1894227/Sunspace3.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1894227/OldWindows.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1894227/NewWindows.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1894227/GlassMountingDetail.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1894227/RubberSpacers.JPG





jonrUser is Offline
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10 Jul 2015 02:03 PM
I don't know how compressible the rubber is, but by using a more compressible foam, you might be able to get the same range of movement with less gap. If not. it's not that much to remove with a router.

Caulk's movement range is limited - I'd avoid it completely.

Consider PVC or Hardi trim (instead of untreated wood).
ColinCUser is Offline
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10 Jul 2015 04:46 PM
'Found most of the information I need from this excellent site:

kissourglass.com

...as well as some advice from the owner Joe.  'Excellent resource for anyone with a project like this!
gosolarUser is Offline
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10 Jul 2015 08:16 PM
OK the detail is fine, but I reallly don't like the frames in PT, they warp & bend, can cause glass failure.

I built them is similar fashion and research the hell out of it. Went with Western red Cedar.

The rubber is required but you don't need them that thick, 1/8 to 3/16 is is fine the need to have a hardness of about 85 and be the full with of the glass + a fraction.

Silicone is recommended by Cardinal glass, Dow 995 is one of them it is no acid therefore will not affect any coating in the glass

get it all at PKsupplies.com, silicone is $7.50 a tube

setting blocks
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