How Pathetic Is This?
Last Post 30 Jul 2014 02:51 PM by eugenepan. 41 Replies.
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11 Dec 2011 03:39 PM
                                       



AZ has some pretty lenient building codes. Here is a typical build in Phx, AZ. I found over 50+ spots on this ranch home where they tore through the tar paper & styrofoam and left a gaping hole for water intrusion. They DO NOT OSB shear the homes in Phx, only in a few spots here and there. What you see here is the final framed product before they start putting the tar paper and styrofoam as seen in the picture.

As you know stucco is NOT waterproof, once it is water soaked, water will flow behind it. The 1/2" styrofoam that they use is also NOT 100% waterproof as it has gaps, tears and rips in it from all the nails and staples they use. So you are left with the tar paper as your final water barrier. If that is in any way ripped or compromised, water will find its way in and soak the fiberglass insulation, the studs and then your drywall. This is the way that tract homes are built in Phx.

Imagine the air& water infiltration in a home like this! Not to mention the amount of bugs that find their way into the walls.











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11 Dec 2011 04:48 PM
They attach tar paper right to the open studs?

Foam, taped house wrap, stucco wrap, mesh, stucco makes more sense to me.


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11 Dec 2011 07:12 PM
Posted By jonr on 11 Dec 2011 04:48 PM
They attach tar paper right to the open studs?

Foam, double layer taped stucco wrap, mesh, stucco makes more sense to me.

YEP!

They attach the tar paper & styrofoam directly to the open studs by running a staple (as seen in the photo) through the tar paper and into the stud (that is if they don't miss the stud as shown in the picture).

As can be seen, in OVER 50+ instances, they missed the studs and the staple went into the void between the studs and ripped the tar paper and crumbled the styrofoam. Remember, the DO NOT install OSB sheathing on the entire home. Therefore the paper rips very easily as there is nothing solid behind it.

I GUARANTEE YOU that a home built like this in a rainy climate would experience mold, rot and failure within 2-3 years. Since it is AZ, you are OK when it doesn't rain but when it does, get ready for interior leaks. I personally spoke to numerous Phx homeowners that got water leaks coming out of the drywall during wind driven rain or in a long duration soaking rain. The water will literally come right through the drywall and weep. Of course the entire fiberglass bat is soaked, and the studs are soaked behind the drywall.

Welcome to Phx AZ home building! They use this practice even on million dollar homes. Unless you custom build, this is what you get.




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11 Dec 2011 08:15 PM
Here are 2 more images but of a 2-story home. This home is 100% done being framed. I kid you not. They will start installing the paper wrap and styrofoam this week, then stucco it. The areas of missing OSB will remain that way, missing. They only shear certain areas.

I also guarantee you that the tar paper will get ripped during install in the areas where it spans in-between the stud frames, with the result being water/air intrusion.




    







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11 Dec 2011 08:57 PM
I'd say some more OSB to prevent racking. But no need to cover it all (foam over studs is legitimate if you aren't suspending tar paper).


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11 Dec 2011 10:29 PM
How is that rigid enough to apply stucco mud, without sheathing? I must end up thicker in-between the studs.


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11 Dec 2011 11:16 PM
Posted By ICFconstruction on 11 Dec 2011 10:29 PM
How is that rigid enough to apply stucco mud, without sheathing? I must end up thicker in-between the studs.

They use 1/2" to 1" styrofoam/EPS across the studs and the just staple the EPS to the stud. They then run mesh/chicken wire on top and then apply a VERY thin layer of stucco, probably 1/2".

They alternate styrofoam thickness to compensate for the areas that do not have OSB.

As I mentioned, rips will form on the tar paper, that is guaranteed. Even the installers know it. All they do is go back and run some caulk on the rips from the inside of the home before they fiberglass insulate and drywall. Mind you they never get all the rips and even the ones they do get, they are very sloppy and quick with the caulk gun.




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12 Dec 2011 09:16 AM
I suppose if I were forced to live in one of these, I would keep the house slightly pressurized during wet/warm weather to help keep moisture out. Those small roof overhangs certainly don't help either.


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12 Dec 2011 06:35 PM

And here are the results of this type of construction:








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12 Dec 2011 09:20 PM
So the window flashing is set up to dump water behind the foam?


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12 Dec 2011 10:09 PM
no voids or honeycombs in that construction


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12 Dec 2011 10:40 PM
Posted By jonr on 12 Dec 2011 09:20 PM
So the window flashing is set up to dump water behind the foam?

Yep.

They don't consider/use the foam as a "water barrier", it is thought of as a substance to attach the stucco to and for insulation value. It is not considered a water barrier.


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12 Dec 2011 10:40 PM

Posted By guest on 12 Dec 2011 10:09 PM
no voids or honeycombs in that construction



Apparently not.





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13 Dec 2011 07:04 PM
They need to go to full OSB and drain wrap.


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13 Dec 2011 07:14 PM
How would a home like this perform during high winds?

I would believe not too well. These homes rack quite a bit during 40MPH+ winds. Without the OSB sheathing there is quite a bit of movement .




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13 Dec 2011 08:58 PM
Lbear,

What would happen to this house during a downburst?  A downburst would make a 40MPH wind insignificant.  The dimensional lumber would be splinters.  Other new and stronger technologies should do better although they might lose most of their shingles.  I seem to remember reading about downbursts in that part of AZ.  I believe it was associated with the SABS house.


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14 Dec 2011 11:17 AM
I'm going to guess that racking + stucco = more cracks and cracks mean even more leaks.


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01 Jan 2012 03:43 PM
Posted By jonr on 14 Dec 2011 11:17 AM
I'm going to guess that racking + stucco = cracks and cracks mean even more leaks.

Cracks in the stucco are considered "normal" out here. Unless they are greater than 1/4" wide, they will leave them be.

Stucco/concrete is NOT waterproof, water will soak the concrete and then go behind it, the EPS is also NOT 100% waterproof. The tar paper is the true water barrier. Unfortunately when they rip and tear it in over 100+ places in a 2story home, you will get water intrusion.




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03 Jan 2012 09:35 AM

Stucco will crack, preferably on expansion/controll joints, but if you have cracking as much as 1/4" there is a structural problem


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03 Jan 2012 01:48 PM
EPS actually is 100% waterproof if you detail the seams properly, but it'd not as easy to do that with EPS as it is with XPS.

SFAIK there are no generally accepted methods of using EPS as the weather resistant barrier (WRB), but there is with XPS. But the cost of doing a separate "tried & true" WRB is pretty cheap.


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03 Jan 2012 02:57 PM
So with an ICF home would they wrap the exterior EPS in Tyvek before they stucco?


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14 Jan 2012 10:09 PM


Look at this stupidity. They did not even bring the OSB panels up to the windows and to save $40 they did not sheath underneath the windows. Remember, this is finished being framed. If you look closely at the top of the photo the gable wall doesn't have OSB sheathing either, it's open framing. To add insult to injury it's just a truss end so the 2x4 framing is laid flat. This type of setup is EXTREMELY weak in high winds. You can go into the attic and push on the gable truss end and the entire gable wall will flex and move. Truly sad....


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14 Jan 2012 10:16 PM


Of course the HVAC ducts are NOT within the thermal envelope of the home. They will insulate the attic floor with blown-in fiberglass and the vents will sit ABOVE the insulation. In a Phoenix summer, the attic can reach 150F temperatures .

I noticed that the OSB roof has a thin aluminum type of lining attached to it from the bottom (as seen in the photo). Is this supposed to help radiate the heat back to the outside? I don't know how effective it is?


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14 Jan 2012 11:45 PM
Posted By Lbear on 14 Jan 2012 10:16 PM


Of course the HVAC ducts are NOT within the thermal envelope of the home. They will insulate the attic and the vents will sit ABOVE the insulation. In a Phoenix summer, the attic can reach 140F temperatures .

I noticed that the OSB roof has a thin aluminum type of lining attached to it from the bottom (as seen in the photo). Is this supposed to help radiate the heat back to the outside? I don't know how effective it is?





No, since there is not an air space between the OSB and perforated foil.  Think Low E instead.






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15 Jan 2012 01:04 AM
Posted By Alton on 14 Jan 2012 11:45 PM

No, since there is not an air space between the OSB and perforated foil.  Think Low E instead.





What is the purpose or effectiveness of that foil?


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15 Jan 2012 07:25 AM
To reduce temperature in the attic.  The theory is that the roof and decking will soak up the heat but be very slow about releasing it to the attic (Low E).  The holes in the foil are to keep it from being water and vapor proof which would not let wet decking dry.  See http://arrowheadroofing.com/news/ra...-and-foil/  for a little better understanding.  However, I think th article somewhat misses the concept involving which side should have the air space for radiant to work.

If the attic floor was the hot source, then the foil on the bottom of the decking with its air space would reflect heat back to the attic.  Since the sun is the heat source, then for reflection to work well, there would be a need for the foil to have an air space between it and the decking.

Also see http://www.lpcorp.com/LP_Products/R..._It_Made_/    Incising the decking after the foil has been installed punches holes through the foil and glue thus letting the panel breathe.  This is the brand that I have used.  Tech Shield engineers tell me this type of decking reduces heat in the attic by being a poor material for re-radiating the energy stored by the sun in the decking to the attic (Low E).


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15 Jan 2012 10:05 AM
Posted By ICFconstruction on 11 Dec 2011 10:29 PM
How is that rigid enough to apply stucco mud, without sheathing? I must end up thicker in-between the studs.


I remember before using plywood sheeting when we only used 1X4 or 1X6 let in braces. The stucco was uniform in that it bowed in between each stud. The exterior side was flat and did not show the variances.

I was once called to a job to find a leak. When I finally found it on the second floor it was I small staple tear like the missed staple in the picture.
 The wall was on the windy side of a hill side house. With the drywall and insulation removed the wind was blowing the rain three feet inside the house through the stucco,

It made me realize how porous stucco was and wonder how many small leaks the average house had ?



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15 Jan 2012 10:43 AM
Posted By Lbear on 14 Jan 2012 10:16 PM



I noticed that the OSB roof has a thin aluminum type of lining attached to it from the bottom (as seen in the photo). Is this supposed to help radiate the heat back to the outside? I don't know how effective it is?




If the roof deck is OSB, then what you saw was likely Solarbord OSB.

http://www.solarbordosb.com/features-benefits

Georgia Pacific makes a similar product using plywood called Thermostat.

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=1398


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15 Jan 2012 01:33 PM
Posted By SCIP Panel on 15 Jan 2012 10:05 AM

I remember before using plywood sheeting when we only used 1X4 or 1X6 let in braces. The stucco was uniform in that it bowed in between each stud. The exterior side was flat and did not show the variances.

I was once called to a job to find a leak. When I finally found it on the second floor it was I small staple tear like the missed staple in the picture.
 The wall was on the windy side of a hill side house. With the drywall and insulation removed the wind was blowing the rain three feet inside the house through the stucco,

It made me realize how porous stucco was and wonder how many small leaks the average house had ?


Very true in regards to leaks. Stucco is NOT waterproof, most people I talk to think it is. Once stucco gets water saturated, it basically lets water come right through it. When the vapor/water barrier is ripped, then the water will just pour right into the home.

Out here in Phx, AZ, 90% of the homes will leak water. It's just that we don't get that much rain to expose all the leaks, so it takes years to find out. If you pull a wall plate cover off from a PHX home you will feel a huge draft coming out of the area.


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16 Jan 2012 12:29 PM
Posted By Alton on 15 Jan 2012 07:25 AM
To reduce temperature in the attic.  The theory is that the roof and decking will soak up the heat but be very slow about releasing it to the attic (Low E).  The holes in the foil are to keep it from being water and vapor proof which would not let wet decking dry.  See http://arrowheadroofing.com/news/ra...-and-foil/  for a little better understanding.  However, I think th article somewhat misses the concept involving which side should have the air space for radiant to work.

If the attic floor was the hot source, then the foil on the bottom of the decking with its air space would reflect heat back to the attic.  Since the sun is the heat source, then for reflection to work well, there would be a need for the foil to have an air space between it and the decking.


Also see http://www.lpcorp.com/LP_Products/R..._It_Made_/    Incising the decking after the foil has been installed punches holes through the foil and glue thus letting the panel breathe.  This is the brand that I have used.  Tech Shield engineers tell me this type of decking reduces heat in the attic by being a poor material for re-radiating the energy stored by the sun in the decking to the attic (Low E).

In a configuration with only one air gap & foil it doesn't matter if the foil is on the hot side (where it's low emissivity limits the heat radiated to ~3% of what a highly emissive surface would) or the cool side (where it's high reflectivity sends ~97% of back toward the radiating surface),  the effect on the rate of radiated heat transfer is the same.

But having a foil suspended  several inches from the roof deck roughly doubles the effect, (as does having foil-cladding facing the gap on both sides of the gap) since a suspended radiant barrier presents a low-emissivity toward the materials below, and reflects heat back toward the roof deck.  If air is allowed to convect through the channel between the roof deck and RB foil it increases the heat transfer via convection, cutting into it's effectiveness. But without the convection there is potential for higher moisture content in the roof deck.  he compromise is perforated radiant barrier which limits the convection current (if installed without gaps at the bottom & top), yet provides some convection, and a modest amount of distributed cross sectional area for vapor diffusion.

Roofing materials are of-necessity low-permeance.  Unless the roofing is vented between the exterior and the roof deck (eg. steel roofing on purlins) using only perforated foil-clad or semi-permeable low-E paint solutions would be preferable.

Other things that alter the effectiveness of foil clad decking is the R-value of the roofing + decking, and even more importantly the  solar reflectivity & infra-red emissivity of the roofing.  A high reflectivity-moderate emissivity roof will lower the temp of the roof decking considerably and has a larger effect on the peak cooling load than even a suspended radiant barrier solution.  The roofing cools primarily by re-radiating the absorbed heat back at the sky, but on roofs steeper than 2:12 pitch convection to the outdoor air is a significant contributor.  Foil clad decking or radiant barriers increase the temp of the roofing  increasing it's sky radiation somewhat, but the net heat rejection still isn't to the same degree as a CRRC rated "cool roof" roofing material would.


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20 Jan 2012 09:02 AM

Nice post Dana - had not consider opposing surfaces.

Re: "Posted By Lbear on 03 Jan 2012 02:57 PM
So with an ICF home would they wrap the exterior EPS in Tyvek before they stucco?"

If your referring to direct applied plastic mesh type (some call EFIS) then never. The material needs to bond with the ICF foam. If your referring to "real" stucco concrete with metal mesh then usually -- no. ICF is basically three air barriers already (foam, concrete, foam) and adding a four doesn't do much. Regards.




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24 Jul 2014 09:27 PM
Hello, I am having a house built in arizona and when I noticed they were not going to Sheath the whole house I started researching and found this forum. There are some holes in the paper. They are using a spray foam for the insulation. Will the holes in the paper cause any issues for me having spray foam? If so what can I do to fix this?


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24 Jul 2014 09:28 PM
I attached the pics couldn't figure out how to show them in post

Attachment: IMG_3281.jpg
Attachment: IMG_3280.jpg

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24 Jul 2014 10:32 PM
Posted By sundevils on 24 Jul 2014 09:27 PM
Hello, I am having a house built in arizona and when I noticed they were not going to Sheath the whole house I started researching and found this forum. There are some holes in the paper. They are using a spray foam for the insulation. Will the holes in the paper cause any issues for me having spray foam? If so what can I do to fix this?

Is this in Phoenix (Central/Southern AZ) or Northern Arizona?

It is common practice out in Phoenix to NOT sheath the entire home. Code allows it, builders do it to save money, but the homeowner gets stuck with a crappy built home.

When you say they are using "spray foam" for the insulation. Are they spraying foam (I assume open cell) on the interior portion between the wall studs directly onto the building paper?

If so, the bigger issue is not the holes in the building paper as much as it is the following:
  • The spray foam should have solid OSB backing it, not 15# building paper, it should have a solid surface to adhere to
  • The foam will expand and push on the building paper causing it to move/rip since there is nothing supporting it
Here are my recommendations:
  1. I would have them install OSB on the ENTIRE exterior of the home, not just the corners like they are doing. Sheathing the entire exterior is common practice in the entire USA except in Phoenix, Las Vegas and parts of Utah. A fully sheathed home is stronger, less "racking", provides a better air barrier, gives a solid surface to adhere to, ties the whole wall framing together.
  2. Once that's done, I would have them use dense packed cellulose within the wall cavities, not spray foam. The cellulose is a lot cheaper than spray foam and less likely to have issues with.
  3. I would have them tape the OSB seams on the exterior and install 30# building paper and then 2 inches of rigid EPS on the exterior OSB, then stucco it.




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25 Jul 2014 12:33 AM

Is this in Phoenix (Central/Southern AZ) or Northern Arizona?

It is common practice out in Phoenix to NOT sheath the entire home. Code allows it, builders do it to save money, but the homeowner gets stuck with a crappy built home.

When you say they are using "spray foam" for the insulation. Are they spraying foam (I assume open cell) on the interior portion between the wall studs directly onto the building paper?

If so, the bigger issue is not the holes in the building paper as much as it is the following:
  • The spray foam should have solid OSB backing it, not 15# building paper, it should have a solid surface to adhere to
  • The foam will expand and push on the building paper causing it to move/rip since there is nothing supporting it
Here are my recommendations:
  1. I would have them install OSB on the ENTIRE exterior of the home, not just the corners like they are doing. Sheathing the entire exterior is common practice in the entire USA except in Phoenix, Las Vegas and parts of Utah. A fully sheathed home is stronger, less "racking", provides a better air barrier, gives a solid surface to adhere to, ties the whole wall framing together.
  2. Once that's done, I would have them use dense packed cellulose within the wall cavities, not spray foam. The cellulose is a lot cheaper than spray foam and less likely to have issues with.
  3. I would have them tape the OSB seams on the exterior and install 30# building paper and then 2 inches of rigid EPS on the exterior OSB, then stucco it.




Hello, This is in Phoenix Area (east valley). They have already begun to attach the chicken wire pretty much all around the house so I don't think they would use OSB now. It's a tract home so the superintendent don't really listen to anything I say. I believe it's open cell insulation. From looking at pictures on the builders website it looks like they just spray it on the paper between the studs. Really disappointed how cheap these builders are here in Arizona. Should I expect major issues in the near future with moisture or anything else? Thanks for your help


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25 Jul 2014 02:27 AM
Posted By sundevils on 25 Jul 2014 12:33 AM

Hello, This is in Phoenix Area (east valley). They have already begun to attach the chicken wire pretty much all around the house so I don't think they would use OSB now. It's a tract home so the superintendent don't really listen to anything I say. I believe it's open cell insulation. From looking at pictures on the builders website it looks like they just spray it on the paper between the studs. Really disappointed how cheap these builders are here in Arizona. Should I expect major issues in the near future with moisture or anything else? Thanks for your help



Since they are already putting the wire lathe on, it is too late for the OSB sheathing. They already installed the rigid foam and building paper over the stud framing of the home.

The use of open cell spray foam is starting to gain momentum in the Phoenix valley. I believe Maracay Homes is one of the main tract home builders that are doing this. Like you mentioned, it is a real shame on how poorly and cheaply built the homes in Phoenix are. Quite shocking when I saw firsthand on how they are built out here. The open framing is just ridiculous and they are still stuffing R-13 fiberglass batts between open frame studs, no OSB. The homes leak air like there is no tomorrow and sadly they leak water into the wall cavity. As shown at the beginning of this thread. There are full-time companies staffed with dozens of workers and all they do is go around and fix the water leaks on the walls of these newly built homes. It's mind-boggling on how they build out in the valley.

As far as them spray foaming directly onto the building paper without OSB backing/sheathing, it's something that is questionable but probably will be OK, only time will tell. The spray foam will glue itself to wood but it doesn't attach very well to asphalt covered building paper, so I question on how well the foam adheres and holds up once they seal the wall up. Drywall can hide a lot of bad building practices.

As far as moisture/water leaks, yes, that is something that is "normal" for these homes. I've spoken with a few head foremen out in Phoenix and they all stated the same thing, "all Phoenix built homes will leak water into the wall cavity", that is guaranteed. The question is how much water and if the homeowner will ever notice? Being a desert climate, the rain will usually come down in insane bursts during the monsoon. Whatever water makes its way into the wall cavity will probably never show up on the drywall and the heat will eventually dry out the wall cavity.

The problem arises is during the winter when Phoenix gets the Pacific storms that dump a continuous, multi-day, steady rainfall, that is slightly wind driven to where it soaks the wall for a few days. That is when you will see the water infiltration come in and damage the drywall.  For the damage on Page#1 of this thread, it took a Pacific winter storm where it rained for 2-3 days straight to eventually soak the studs, soak the fiberglass batts, and then finally soak the drywall and leak water into the home through the walls.

The open spray foam you will have will help to prevent the water from coming into contact with the drywall. Your home build is better than the R-13 fiberglass batts they are stuffing into wall cavities, that is for sure. Spray foam will help with air leakage and will help with water infiltration. For a tract home, you can't expect much quality besides code minimum, sometimes that doesn't even happen...





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28 Jul 2014 10:40 PM
I read this whole thread. This is crazy! I thought it was a joke at first. Sundevils, I would back out of that home in a heartbeat if you could. I am in the middle of building a houses right this minute that feels so over the top, OVER engineered I swear Godzilla would have to work at it to flatten it, but these pics and thread is scary. I would never dreamed this was legal. A home is something that you invest a lot of money and time into. You want to do it right for Christ's sake. I would tell that builder to take a hike if your contract provides and get your money back. Get the bank involved if you can. You are the owner correct? Is this shit not against code? Even if it isn't, tt is way against common sense.


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28 Jul 2014 11:35 PM
Posted By beetle55 on 28 Jul 2014 10:40 PM
I read this whole thread. This is crazy! I thought it was a joke at first. Sundevils, I would back out of that home in a heartbeat if you could. I am in the middle of building a houses right this minute that feels so over the top, OVER engineered I swear Godzilla would have to work at it to flatten it, but these pics and thread is scary. I would never dreamed this was legal. A home is something that you invest a lot of money and time into. You want to do it right for Christ's sake. I would tell that builder to take a hike if your contract provides and get your money back. Get the bank involved if you can. You are the owner correct? Is this shit not against code? Even if it isn't, tt is way against common sense.

Open residential framing is 100% allowed by code in Phoenix and the surrounding metro areas. Commercial buildings in Phoenix MUST be fully sheathed with OSB. Not until you go north into the high-country (Yavapai and Coconino County) and leave Maricopa County, in those counties they do NOT allow open framing for residential, it must be fully sheathed.

I agree, it is appalling that residential Phoenix code is so lax. This type of building opens the door to so many issues later on. The main ones being; water and air infiltration, and the strength of the home. While these homes of course don't collapse on people (not yet), they make the most awful sounds when we have windy weather or severe storms. We just had some severe storms roll through and the winds were around 40-50mph. Man, the house sounded like it was going to fall apart. The creaking, popping, snapping and strange sounds that were coming from the walls made it very uneasy. There is no doubt the home racks in high winds and the open framing wants to move, hence the strange sounds coming from the walls.

I was told Phoenix residential building codes are the most lax out of any major city within the continental U.S.A. Would I want to be in such a home during an EF0-EF2 tornado? Definently not, as it would most likely structurally fail and collapse. OSB sheathing provides greater strength in twisting and bending forces and it also provides some protection from flying debris (not a lot) but if a 2x4 is traveling at 50mph, I would rather have 1/2" OSB in its way than just 1/2" of foam and building paper.

One can take a screwdriver and push it through from the outside with little to no force and it will penetrate into the interior of the home and go through the drywall. I watched someone trying to install an anchor on the exterior wall when the screwdriver slipped and penetrated the thin stucco, past through the 1/2" of foam and came inside of the home penetrating the drywall. You could go inside and see the screwdriver head sticking out of the drywall. Ideally, one should try and find a stud every 16" o.c. on the open framing if you plan on installing an anchor on the outside.


beetle55User is Offline
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29 Jul 2014 12:28 AM
Wow. I am not a builder, but I have a several homes under my belt and been around the building trades for most of my adult life and have never seen this. I am not doubting what you are saying is true, but it flies in the face of common sense, in the least. For one, that climate, while its doesn't get much rain, can get some torrential wind storms with wind driven rain. That is just one of the problems. Look at the additional heating load that hundreds of thousands of these crap homes create for the power company? and then the cost to their customers! Just the air leakage alone, even if the sheeting was somewhat poorly chalked, would be SO MUCH better that this "open framing" that your area permits. It seems to me to be strictly money driven. Get in and out fast and quick. Screw any quality. Yes, there will be problems, but by the time the problems come out, our warranty and liability will expire and we can then say "see you later, not our problem and that all things were done according to code." What bullshit. The local HBA chapter has the building department in their back pocket it seems. I for one HATE regulation, but in this case it is screaming out for some. I don't say that very often at all. IN fact rarely. I am serious. I really have a big problem with most regulation, but in this case, even I have can't bring myself to even coming close to being OK with SUCH POOR construction. This is just another example of a throw away society that this USA has become. Its disgraceful. I am native born American, but my wife is from the UK. So I go over there about once a year to visit family with her and stay in her parents "home" which is a 300 year old, shit maybe even 350-400 year (I forget what they told me) old farm house that of course has been worked on quite a bit over the years. HOWEVER the main structure is STILL very sound and secure. Made of real stone and old, very old concrete and some oak timbers. And they don't consider this house old! Not at all. They have friends living in houses many centuries older. Imagine that. We tear down houses here after 50-100 years old typically. They think if your house is less than 100 years old then it must be a new home. And the simple fact is that the construction methods they utilized , and to some degree still do, while maybe not energy efficient, were and are designed to LAST for a very long time. I find myself ashamed sometimes to call myself an American when examples of such greed, laziness and such short sighted actions are not the exception but now common place. This type crap will come home to roost for us as a whole society. And I think much sooner than maybe some of those dumbasses ever thought.

Sorry for the soap box, but I think most people out there would agree. This runs and cuts deeper than just a local building code. Its just a clear illustration of something much more. Cheers.


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29 Jul 2014 12:41 AM
Oh, a major mistake on my part. Didn't see the date on the first post. Had no idea it was that old. For some reason it was under a column that was supposed to be "recent post." So by now Sundevils "open framed" house is long been built, but the point is still the same though.


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29 Jul 2014 12:57 AM
Bettle55-

I agree with what you are saying. That is one of the reasons why I am building my own ICF/concrete home. It's a complete joke on how poorly these tract homes are out here. Sadly they are ALL like that, except for the high-end million dollar homes that sometimes (not always) get fully sheathed with OSB.

I've seen plenty of problems already with these homes out here. Many are experiencing mold/rot and even failing walls. The walls that have problems are of course those that were never fully OSB sheathed. The open framing causes wall shifting and windows to shift and even break due to the wall racking and twisting out of square. Wall leaks from water intrusion is another problem.

It blew my mind that they build like this out here. Still stuffing R-13 fiberglass batts in the 2x4 walls and using 15# building paper as your water barrier.

Instead of "Where's the beef?" in Phoenix it is "Where's the OSB?" (hopefully you get the 1980's reference)




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30 Jul 2014 02:51 PM
Posted By beetle55 on 29 Jul 2014 12:41 AM
Oh, a major mistake on my part. Didn't see the date on the first post. Had no idea it was that old. For some reason it was under a column that was supposed to be "recent post." So by now Sundevils "open framed" house is long been built, but the point is still the same though.

I think you are okay.  he just added to this thread a few days ago.




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